New Conductor Plate, still hard shift.

[caviterruptor]

My 2000 E320 went to Limp Home Mode with a 7015 Speed Sensor OBD code, so I replaced the conductor plate & 13-pin connector (which reportedly had been done 3 years/30k miles ago & neither of which looked bad).

The car now rides fine, with the exception of hard shifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 1st gears.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, C

[stevemcf]

Hi, C. I am having exactly the same issue with my 2003 CLK 240. I have had the dreaded Valeo radiator issue that contaminated the ATF; so had the radiator swapped out, but no difference. I have carried out 2 full 14 litre ATF flushes and still no change. My next move is to change the conductor plate (i've already changed the Pilot Bush plug connector), but until then I am driving the car in 'W' mode which misses out 1st gear.

My fear is that I have a problem with the torque convertor 'lock up' system.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Steve

[caviterruptor]

Per my understanding of the attached pdf, a reading of 2.7 ohms across pins 6 and 11 of the 13-pin connector should indicate a good solenoid for the Torque Converter Lock up Clutch.

Getting multimeter leads on pins 6 and 11 sounds tricky, but less work than removing the conductor plate to test solenoid contacts. I bench tested this solenoid & thought it sounded weaker than the other five (which it is different from), but didn't know at the time to test its resistance.

[Zulfiqar]

does the car shift violently hard or is it a bumpy shift like old Honda automatics had? Does it do it when cold or hot?

Does the car give a yanking feeling while creeping in D?

The above is repaired by a rebuilt torque converter with some modifications, The modification includes adding very light springs to the clutch pack so it can stay in released position. The original system has no release springs, Its very different to other automatics.


Your problem may be oil in the TCU, check that for contamination and do a shift reset and relearn, The reset and relearn make for the best shifting performance.

[caviterruptor]

Hot or cold, car shifts between 1st & 2nd with a single, nonviolent bump.
No yanking feeling while creeping in D.
No sign of TCU contamination & reset/relearn of adaptive transmission makes no improvement.
Think I'll pretend I'm Alaskan, where they say "first gear/schmirst gear" and drive in W year-round.

[97 SL320]

Do you also get a slight vibration in 4th and 5th around 40 MPH? under light throttle? A dragging torque converter clutch will cause this. Do a search for " Sprinter RSN " ( Rumble Strip Noise. ) This can also be called " Torsional Vibration "

My 97 SL320 and 97 C280 both have this vibration with the C being worse ( lighter car ). It feels like a standard shift that is in too high a gear and the throttle is lightly pressed..

Also look at Sonnax transmission products, they have kits to fix various valve body issues. Some need special reamers so pick and chose what you buy. There is a torque converter buffer sleeve and spring kit ( or similar name ) that applies to "late" trans , not sure if 2000 is late enough.

[caviterruptor]

Haven't noticed Torsional Vibration. Will investigate. Thanks

[stevemcf]

Originally Posted by caviterruptor

Hot or cold, car shifts between 1st & 2nd with a single, nonviolent bump.
No yanking feeling while creeping in D.
No sign of TCU contamination & reset/relearn of adaptive transmission makes no improvement.
Think I'll pretend I'm Alaskan, where they say "first gear/schmirst gear" and drive in W year-round.

Again, exactly the same as mine! I have actually been driving in 'W' mode for the last couple of weeks to avoid the bump.

[clarkz712]

reset addaptations and then relean them should shift fine after that if trans is good