Need help with diagnoses (alarm?)
 

2003 230slk My daughters car. I live in NH, she's in the Orlando area. The car won't start. The car was rear-ended about a year and half ago requiring work to alighn the trunk lid. This wasn't don correctly at the body shop and was then sent to a Mercedes dealership to correct the problem. After a few months the car wouldn't start, back to Mercedes. There the PSE was replaced at a price that they could afford. This problem has once again reemerged. Now they are telling me that the tumbler assembly needs to be replaced in the ignition. I have no idea if the trunk is leaking at this time, my daughter says it isn't wet inside the trunk. I haven't been able to inspect the wires to the PSE....What do you think? They want $1100 to do the ignition. I'm sure that it can be done cheaper, but does it need to be done at all? I've enclosed the test results from the "brain". Thanks for your help
Dan

Nothing jumps out in the fault codes. SLKs are notorious for having the CAN network brought down by any number of failing modules preventing the drive authorization from occurring. On top of this switches do fail also. The quote seems ridiculously high. I'd want a 2nd opinion from a competent diagnostician.

I'll type more when later today.

We need to define " Won't start " .

I bought a car that had a dealer repair order tucked in the car. It listed " Customer states : " Car won't start " , dealer tech tested and replied, " Can't duplicate problem, car starts 10 X " Further down, Customer states: " car still won't start " . As it turns out, the key would not turn.

Does this have a metal key or a smart key fob, ( no metal key bit ) ?

The will not turn over. Will only open with the key, the alarm goes off.Won't disarm with the key fob. Won't lock with the key fob.

And now we need to define " Won't turn over " , I take that as the engine isn't being rotated by the starter motor when the key is turned to the crank position.

Given the alarm engages I'd find a way to disable it. My 97 SL320 had problems with the alarm randomly sounding when I used the key to unlock then opened the door. The ATA ( Anti Theft Alarm ) on my car is a separate box that when unplugged, disables the system. Or maybe it was the remote locking module not sending a release signal to the ATA. An any event, unplugging one of these took care of the problem.

You do you have a metal bit key with a single button?

Remotes generally need to be synced with the car for them to work. Make sure the batteries are good first. For my cars, I press the single button on the remote 2X then insert and turn the key to the run position.

For a multi button smart key I'd expect a similar procedure but check around first.

Sounds to me like the RFL module is bad or there is another module bringing down the CAN communication between the RFL, PSE and possibly CCM.

I would have the alarm removed or disabled . This as was my problem after winter lay up .

Won't turn over: when the key is turned to the start position, nothing happens. When this problem originally started, I asked him (the service manager) to jump out the alarm system. He told me, that can't be done. He didn't elaborate. Disabling the alarm sounds like the best solution at this point. Could you tell me where the ATA is located.
Thank you all for your help once again, I don't know what I'd do without you.
Dan

If memory serves me there is no ATA on this car. The alarm functions are covered by the RFL and PSE. I think the CCM may also play a part in it too.