Ok, so heres the quick run down. The motor quit on the car of family members car so i can get it for what i think is a ok price. So i guess the question is, how hard is it to pull the motor on these cars? im used to the American drag race car would where we would have the motor out and rebuilt the night before the race. So i guess what i need to know is, does the motor come out the top/front? Will it make it easier to pull trans with it? Now keep in mind i will have a complete motor ready to go all i have to do to attach the trans to it. So i quess in a quick run down thats what i may or make not be working with. i do have use of a shop/lifts. So any info would be awsome, thanks guys!

I think the labor time alone is over 18 hours - going form memory of comments from the balance shaft issue. You can get the procedure from alldatadiy.com for like $15. You will need metric tools for this one, though

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Prost!

Comes out the top/front, its a relatively easy job. You can disconnect the trans in the car. TQ converter bolts are easy to get to from the bottom.

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My typical approach is to remove torque converter bolts while in car then pull engine/transmission together.

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Jim

A few things, cars are designed to have major components rapidly installed on the assembly line. When you take them apart, look for where the sub assembly ends and where the "car" starts, it is generally where you want to make the split.

Most wiring harnesses can be left on the engine, follow the harness to the car and unplug there Vs taking every wire off the engine. Most plugs are going to be color coded / keyed to prevent miss assembly. Better salvage yards unplug rather than cut wires.

I haven changed an engine on this car, if others can confirm that bell housing bolts are easy to get to, leaving the trans in is a better choice. ( the interface of the front drive shaft could complicate a engine only pull. ) Some wiring might run from the engine harness to the trans so some trans wires may need to be removed.

Take lots if pictures of hose / wire routing, this can be difficult to duplicate or research.

When taking an engine out of a car, I have 3 piles. One on drivers side rear, center ( sometimes in the trunk ) and passenger side. As I take parts off, the parts are stacked away from the car then as more arrive they are placed closer to the car. This way you have a left center , right location and an order in which the parts are installed.

Also, if a part needs to be intertwined with another or partly installed, 2nd part installed then first part finished, tie or bolt them together.

Remove engine from car thru hood, leave trans , remove trans lines from oil pan area, there is a power junction at right side remove metal cover , undo nut that holds terminal , battery power to starter, leave harness around engine, disconnect me computer harness plug , remove 3 bolts to ac compressor leave compressor there, disconnect power steering pump, the rest you will figure out

I'm curious, what's wrong with the engine???

Also, most other models of Mercedes have a catch on the hood hinges that will let the hood stand straight up rather than being removed.

Thanks for the help guys. As for the motor thats in he car, im not sure. The car just died and when you try to start it again it makes a horrid sound. So i pulled the pass side valve cover off and had someone hit the key. The motor is turning over as i can see the crank spinning but the timing chain and cams are not spinning so im guessing something with the timing chain.

Is this motor a interference or can i get away with just redoing the timing chain?

Sounds like this car may have had the bad balance shaft/idler gear issue causing the chain to jump or break. There was actually a lawsuit on the topic, and I don't know what MB finally offered, but I think they are offering some limited cost sharing for repairs. Google around and ask the dealer.
I think, but can't confirm, that it is interference, so I would check for bent valves by seeing if any stems don't move fully, or possibly use a borescope in the cylinder.

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Prost!

M113 is not the engine that has/had the balance shaft/idler gear issues, that would be the M272/273. And it most defiantly is an interference engine.

I have done plenty of chains on high mileage M113's and M112's mostly due to noise complaints. Not to much goes wrong with those engines though, would be intresting to see what blew up

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i have a short vid i think of the noise it makes and when i took the valve cover off it was not a pretty sight. it had alot of sludge build up so who ever have the car before didnt stay on top of the oil changes.

I didn't see how many miles on it, but a 10 year old e-class in good shape is a $5,000-$6,000 car. Is it really worth the hassle to repair or replace an engine on this car? Unless you get the car real cheap, like $1,000, and can get a replacement engine at a similar price, it might make more sense to buy a running car to begin with.