Bearing pin removal on E320 chain guide
 

Is the bearing pin pictured in this photo supposed to just pull out? The CD did not go into alot of detail.
This is keeping me from pulling the head off.

I'll put together a "puller" for this pin tomorrow - I just want to make sure it pulls out. If not - then what do I have to do to disconnect around this slide rail to allow me to remove the head.

thanks

Jim,

The inside of the pin sure looks to be threaded, like all the guide pins I have seen. Try threading a 6mmx50 bolt into it (I think that is the size for pulling the guide pins, off the top of my head). If it threads in, unthread it, and use a socket and some washers as a puller. Just don't tighten the bolt real tight, when it starts snugging up, back it out and add a few more washers.

If it doesn't pull, is there another pin holding the other end that could be pulled to remove the whole assembly?

thanks Mike,
Initially it didn't look like it had threads. I ran a tap down in there is the reason it looks like that. It will take a metric threaded fastener now but I do not have the appropriately sized piece to make a puller. I just need someone that has done this before to verify it does pull out. The CDROM makes it sound like it should pull out. I dread the thought of having to pull the lower cover off too but if that's what it takes....... Surely you can remove the head without pulling the lower cover :).

Dammit Jim :eek:,

You're gonna cause me to have to buy another car, so I can find out myself. I'd have though those threads were there from the get go, there has to be a way to pull the head without pulling the lower cover, unfortunately all my experience is on the V-8's. Hopefully a M104 expert will know for sure.

Can't someone please explain what I need to do to separate this slide rail from the block/cylinder head to allow removal of the head. I sure would like to be able to get the head off over the next day or so.
Surely someone on here has pulled a cylinder head on an E320, 104 engine with this type of slide rail arrangement.
Based on everything I have been able to read/study so far it looks like this pin should pull out and that it is just a press fit into the block. I just need confirmation that it does pull out.
Also, is this the type of slide rail where the plastic piece on the slide rail can be replaced without replacing the rail?

thanks

Pin 104 Motor
 

When you Are Resealing the front Cam cover or Doing a Head Gaskit You SHOULD remove the PIN first thru a allen plug in the front cam cover ..Before you remove the front cam cover But in your case the pin Must be removed by a pin puller so that the rail will be loose from the cylinder head

Hope this will help you!

Mark

Thanks Mark
I have gotten everything together to try pulling it out this evening. I just wanted confirmation that it pulls straight out.
Jim

Jim, Just got to thinking, yeah I know, anyway, your 95 E320 is covered in my service CD. If you need anything I'll be glad to look it up for you or you can borrow the CD.

Thanks Stephen
 

I'm about ready to throw in the towel but I am going to try another couple things before taking it to my independent. I would suggest changing this pin anytime it is removed. I suspect the threads had been boogered up some when the head gasket was done. I have the tool made up (see picture) but will probably have to go up in size slightly and am considering putting the cover back on to pull it out through. The threads are still there but they ain't holding like they are going to have to. I am starting to suspect too that the way I am doing it is creating a "bind" on the pin/rail interface. Worst case I will go ahead and pull the lower cover to remove the rail then the head. I'm sure I can get it out with it sitting on the bench.
I've got the CD but just overlooked the fact that I needed to remove this pin prior to removing the cover.

104 Headgaskit
 

Jim,DONT give up you are so close to the removal of the pin !!
Remember that pin comes out HARD!!!! with a pop!! Its in there that hard!!Just make sure that the thread from the bolt you are going into the pin goes ALL the way in !!

NOTE I HAVE Had A COUPLE of 104 rail pins stick so dont feel bad
just keep on trying!! as it will come out !!

Try reinstalling the cam cover to help you on the removal!!

Good Luck

Mark,
I went up to a 1/4" dia. puller and it still would not come out. Has anyone every used JB Weld to bond the puller all thread and the pin together. I may try this before I try to remove the crank bolt (to me, that is the next "challenge").
I have started the removal of the timing case cover and hopefully will get it off this weekend. Seeing as how it is down this far I will probably go ahead and replace the chain guides.
I'm still trying to figure out why they just didn't make this upper "pin" and the allen head bolt that covers the hole over the front of it one piece. Then when you remove the allen head bolt you remove the upper pin too.
Thanks
Jim

Jim, See if you can RENT/BORROW the Tool A Mini slide hammer or the factory pin puller tool Before you remove the front cover etc
Try a shop or a dealer to see if you could get some HELP from a tech to Help you out at your HOUSE? SPOT HIM A COUPLE OF BUCKS! Still cheaper than the INDENDENTor DEALER doing it Just a thought?

I will stop by the independents shop on Monday and see if he would be willing to ride out by the house at lunch one day to maybe try to get it out. I am willing to pay good $$ and buy his lunch if he would do it. I'm kinda friends with him so maybe he will. I may even see if another friend with a tig welding machine would be willing to swing by here and tack weld the pin to the all thread I am using as a puller. I figure the pin and all thread are disposable items at this point.

In reviewing the r&r of the timing case cover it does not look like that big of a deal but LOL neither did this. Oh well - live and learn.

The W123 was never this much trouble LOL.

BUT the 123 didn't have headlight wipers though;) .

I wouldn't do any welding on any motor in the car. There is the possibility of frying the electronics and arching other components. If you're at the end of the rope, then go butter Clarance up! I assume that's who you're talking about?