Replacing brake hoses - W124
 

Hey guys, looking for some guidance here...

Today is rotor/pad/sensors replacement time on the E320 wagon and I've got new hoses for it as well since I've never replaced them I figured it is time. The car has ASR system and I notice in the MB Manual (online) that it states there is a special bleeding process for it. Anyone care to comment on difficulty level and any special equipment I might need for this?

Thanks, I'll be checking in frequently as I'm starting now!

I too worry as I have asr and abs,though disconnected.I read somewhere you need a tool to cycle the ABS.

I've had 2 local rural garages purge my ABS/ASR system over the last few years and nothing special was noted by them and all seems well.

RayH

Thanks guys for the couple replies! I have gone ahead and done the rotors, pads, and sensors minus the hoses. I chickened out and figured I'd just make an appointment with my indy shop to have them install the hoses and do the 'proper' bleed.

Good for you .If you not to sure, then let the experts do the work.

Hoses are seemingly simple, but the connection where the flex hose attaches to the hard lines at that small clip always seems to be impossible to remove. And once you mess up the end of that hard line, then you have to change that hard line, which will have a difficult connection further up the line which will get messed up, etc. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Unless you live in Phoenix or someplace in which it never rains or snows! I don't know what shops do to get that connection loose.

Rgds,
Chris W.
ex 95 E300D, 467K

I actually had the drivers side broken loose at the strut bracket as well as at the caliper. I had been soaking with penetrating fluid for about an hour before I tried...and it worked!

heat and atf+acetone are your freinds here and a good quality line wrench set - like an allen brand or snap on brand. Or really mean triangle shaped locking pliers.


if the line is rusty and its siezed solid - snip it off - discard it, repair with a section of new brake line where the line is not rusty and flare a union in place. I like to use cunifer brake line as it wont rust off like the original and I dont have to beat up my hands trying to bend it into shape.

My local Indy replaced my front ones but advised that the rears are going to require cutting into the hard lines because the hose connections are seized to the hard lines.

I just finished that job today on my daughters 90 300ce. New rotors, pads, hoses and sensors all around. I replaced the CPS first (getting a code but ran fine), while the car was on the jack stands and soaked all the hose connections with repeated PB Blaster applications for 2 days, and they unfastened without any drama. Car does not have ASR so cannot speak to that. Refilled the system with a Motive pressure bleeder, but I think I still have a little air trapped in the bowels of that thing as the pedal travel is longer than it should be. Need a helper to old school activate the pedal, whilst I open and close the bleed valve at the caliper.
Rebuilt 3 of 4 calipers, the drivers front had one piston seized. When I finally extracted the piston it was severely rusted and pitted. Think you can find a new 38mm ATE piston for this beast? Nope. Pelican's supplier unfortunately didn't have a rebuilt caliper in stock either. Sooo rather than scrounge at a salvage yard I ordered a new caliper from the stealership. Had to come from Germany, none in the country, and only 20 left. :-(

Markus, recommend bleeding the brake system again with the Motive pressure bleeder rather than using the old school method which may damage the master cylinder. Plus, if you fail to keep the rear chamber of the master cylinder full more air will get into the brake system.

I will try to bleed again with the Motive now that brakes have been applied a few times.
What if air migrates into the ABS module? How does that get purged without pushing it out under significant pressure?