setting engine at TDC
 

I'm trying to set it up at TDC and turning the socket to clockwise but it feels like getting stuck at about a half turn either clockwise or counterclockwise....

i don't want to break anything and does it take some power to sett it at TDC?

you are turning against the compression of the motor so there is resistance on each stroke.

It moved fairly easily until it stop turning though... Should i keep turning clockwise? Will this break the chain by chance?

Wait...does tranny needs to be in the neutral?

Is this about your '47 Massey-Ferguson?

Samething even it is in N position crank stop in 0200

W124

if the viscous clutch is still attached to the motor... will it not turn?

I guess a good question to ask is WHY are you turning it to TDC? Is this a running engine? If so, you should be able to turn it in the direction of normal rotation for days and days with a breaker bar and socket attached to the crank pulley. Remember, this is how the starter motor works...

I'm replacing the head gasket on m104 engine right now due to overheating and severe oil leak when i got it...

i'm using 1/2" 20 inch long ratchet to turn it.... do i need to use a breaker bar to set it to TDC?

Remove the spark plugs so it's easier to turn.

Sixto
83 300SE for sale
98 E320 wagon

all 6 were removed already :(

If the cams aren't timed and you cant turn the engine then you are binding on the valves. Attempting to continue turning will bend valves.

If you can turn the engine to 40 degrees BTDC you should be able to move the cams until they are close, then go to TDC and time the engine.

i was assuming everything was still together but you may be on to something......i wonder where he is exactly in the "process".......

That's what i was suspected and afraid force to turn.... and break something...
I will look into cams in the morning.

Thanks.

well, the head is still together.
So far i removed below.

intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, valve cover, thermostat housing, radiator and timing cover oh, the fan as well but viscous clutch still attached with stripped bolt.

Now i'm trying to remove the head and following this instruction below. i've done up to figure 23 which i moved the air pump to side and I guess i could turn the engine to TDC before i remove the tensioner but this is where i get stuck....

taeandji, the viscous clutch has no effect on rotating the crankshaft CW (when viewed from the front) with a 27mm socket and breaker bar.

It seems to me that you are getting in over your head attempting to replace the head gasket on your own. Things will only get more complicated/difficult as you proceed, especially if you lack the proper tools.

Thanks for your input but I had another thread going with different topic but ended up with the same question as i moved on from a stripped bolt on the viscous fan clutch to TDC issue.

Long story to short, talk to one of local indy MB shops and they were all concerned with turning engine more and recommended to go ahead to remove the head and deal with timing later. So i removed the head and found out a few valves from cylinder #2 & 3 were sticking out and caused issue i was having to set it to TDC. Luckily, i didn't force to turn otherwise, it would have more damage to valves and the head is at a machine shop for inspection and testing.

I always pull them apart at where ever and only worry about timing the engine going back together.

Yep, but the issue is our guy hits a hard stop when turning. I see him getting the head rebuilt then finding out the engine has lower end problems.

Turning to TDC is good practice for a person that hasn't worked on a particular engine before as it lets them see where the marks are supposed to be.

Some engines ( a few OHC diesels ) are not set up with a piston at TDC, this eliminates the possibility of crashing a valve during setup.

Mercedes startekinfo.com has the factory service instructions online for free. You may want to look at these.

Thanks