Hey All,
So while replacing the water pump and having the front of the engine apart, Iwas thinking of resealing my leaky front timing cover. the gasket in there is black and doesn’t seem like the updated green style. I can see some leftovers of RTV around the cover. It’s leaking 2-3 drops a night, the drops accumulate under the oil pan and alternator.
Any success resaling the front cover? any other things to renew aside form the valve cover gasket obviously..

It's been done three times on my car. Each time it doesn't last long. Mercedes should've been honest with themselves and put this under scheduled maintenance.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

I use permatex,the soft one,or hard.Silicone crap don't last at all.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

The best sealer to use is what they use at most dealerships. It's Loctite 5900. It's vital that all surfaces be completely clean and oil free for any type of sealer to work properly.
If after sealing the upper front timing cover the leak returns you will probably have to replace the head gasket to correct it.

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Mercedes Benz Master Tech - Retired

Both head gasket, Loctite 5900, and u-shaped seal were obtained from Pelican Parts, yet the oil leaks return. I'm very careful with my work.

When it comes to sealer and the upper timing cover seal, less is more. I've seen techs slather it on like crazy and they still leak like nobody's business. You should only put a little in the corners before the seal goes in and then a little more in the corner on the cover.

That said... on my own stuff, when the head is milled, I won't use a seal, just the MB sealer to fill the gap.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

Did this three times on my head gasket repair, M104, to get it right..made all the mistakes and finally got the sequence perfectly! What I recall is yes, the u shaped gasket is green with a seemingly impossible fit..

I found instructions calling for the guide rail pin to be installed first, then the cast cover slid over toward the cylinder head over the gasket..WRONG! You must leave the guide rail pin out and then you can slide the casting with it tipped and slightly high, tipped with the top in so it catches the inside of the gasket and yet leaves the channel in the u free to engage without crushing..And then the drift pins pull the casting down as you push together..finally into square orientation and it will engage perfectly. Yes, just a dab of sealant in the gap area..THEN the guide rail pin with the interference fit is driven in with its zero clearance fit..Only after the gasket us snuggled into the slots. And you should have zero leaks for a very long time. (sorry I dont have quotes to the instructions that suggested the guide rail pin go in first..no time to reread the various sources..But it comes out first with a simple threaded bolt -no special tool needed- and some careful pressure..and goes in last the same..with a firm drive..)

I had a number of issues with this on my E320 and had constant leaks with cheap gaskets. I'm convinced that issue was due to it being warped, or possessed, or something. Then when I did the head gasket on my c36 I went ahead and bought dealer parts and "Honda Bond" which is similar to Loctite 5900. It hasn't leaked a drop since installing it. Another thing many people overlook with gasket makers is you should not immediately torque it down. I just run everything in hand tight, let it set for 15-30 minutes, then torque it.

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Thanks all, Something is driving me crazy. I can see an accumulation of oil drops “hanging” from at the bottom of the oil pan. Since the engine is leaning towards the RHD, are these drops actually come from the front timing cover? or is it another leak that I’m chasing? could it be the oil pan gasket?

Thanks

ytech15, inspect around the timing chain tensioner for evidence of oil leakage.

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Fred Hoelzle