"INA" M103 fan bearing bracket failed within 30 minutes- Possible fake?
 

I had to pull the engine I just put into my 190E because it was seeming to have some head problems and had another M103 ready to go (just had head gasket put on it, everything resealed and new chain guides) that was supposed to go into my mom's car. I started swapping over accessories and discovered the bearing in the fan bracket had already slung its grease and when spun sounded like a dry bearing. It was supposedly an INA bracket, I bought it about a year and a half ago from a competitor site, so it's possible it wasn't a genuine INA part (it did not have any markings on the bearing) but I wouldn't think they would sell me a fake part, at least knowingly. Unfortunately, the warranty is up but I'm still going to contact them to see if I can get any recourse.

https://i.imgur.com/WAlfj1q.jpg?1

I would link it but I know it would be removed, another competitor site that's famous for lifetime warranties has a picture of the backside of an INA bracket and it has both markings on the bearing and in the casting so that's more evidence to say maybe my part isn't genuine INA.

Fake or not a bearing failing after 30min seem strange, must have been damage on the seal before fitting.

I wouldn't call this a failure, it pushed out a bit of excessive grease. Ball bearings are not fully filled with grease to allow for expansion.

If the bearing feels smooth when turning slowly and does not have any play, it is fine.

I actually posted this a few years ago - my INA bearing bracket did not have an INA stamped bearing...yet every other INA bearing I’ve ever purchased has always been stamped with it.

I don’t see yours stamped either, which makes me wonder now if they are sort of scamming out and calling the housing INA and using Chinese bearings, or some fakes are out there? I didn’t really follow up on this and I have 20k on my one now so I’ll keep my fingers crossed.

I wonder if there’s a way to contact manufacturer and ask the question?

Happened to me, with Luk/INA unit. Still on the 300SEL and works fine, quiet and tight. I will check it again next time the hood is open.

If in doubt, send it back.

Did you press the bearing out of the housing and check for numbers? These are not regular single row ball bearings.

Also google

Integral shaft bearing

Water pump bearing


This sounds like some on the diesel side of the list that are convinced the big man is out to squash them.

. . .And make parts more expensive for everyone else by returning a good part as "defective".. There is nothing wrong with this bearing.

Agreed

They agreed to exchange it but I will do some more research into whether this is anything to be concerned about and I want to have another listen to it versus a healthy bearing.

Duxthe1 is a tech at a high volume MB shop and is apparently responding to my post 7.

If the bearing is smooth when rotated, there is nothing wrong with it. It is highly likely the replacement will do the same thing leaving you with another "defective" bearing and an endless install / return cycle.

This is a prime example of why selling parts to DIY guys is risky business.

I'd be highly concerned about a brand new "Double sealed" bearing puking its grease too. Means one of two things:

1: Bearing was overpacked with grease from the factory (poor quality control)

or

2: Bearing was running hot and slung its grease out (defective bearing)

Having installed thousands of bearings on various machinery over the years it's extremely rare to see a brand new bearing sling grease. The grease belongs inside the bearing, not on it. I'd be returning it too. Claiming that DIY guys are morons is plain ignorance.

I will give that the bearing may have been slightly over packed. However, since the grease is still clear it didn't overheat and burn the grease.

Please give us a detailed description of the sealing mechanism on a double sealed bearing.


https://www.ntnglobal.com/en/products/review/pdf/NTN_TR81_en_104p.pdf

This paper states methods of reducing grease leakage through cage design. It is very reasonable to deduce that some grease leakage is normal.


http://www.nachiamerica.com/download/75/Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearings

The chart on page 3 states that with a contact type rubber seal, grease may leak from the bearing at high speeds / high temps.

See also: ( Schaeffer is the parent of INA )

https://www.schaeffler.us/remotemedien/media/_shared_media/08_media_library/01_publications/schaeffler_2/tpi/downloads_8/tpi_176_de_en.pdf

Page 92 - 93

Initial greasing and new greasing

In the greasing of bearings, the following guidelines must be observed:

■
Fill the bearings such that all functional surfaces definitely receive grease.

■
Fill any housing cavity adjacent to the bearing with grease only to the point where there is still sufficient space for the grease displaced from the bearing. This is intended to avoid co-rotation of the grease. If a large, unfilled housing cavity is adjacent to the bearing, sealing shields or washers as well as baffle plates should be used to ensure that an appropriate grease quantity (similar to the quantity that is selected for the normal degree of filling) remains in the vicinity of the bearing. A grease filling of approx. 90% of the undisturbed free bearing volume is recommended. This is defined as the volume in the interior of the bearing that does not come into contact with rotating parts (rolling elements, cage)


In the case of bearings rotating at very high speeds, such as spindle bearings, a smaller grease quantity is generally selected (approx. 60% of the undisturbed free bearing volume or approx. 30% of the total free bearing volume), in order to aid grease distribution during starting of the bearings.


■

If the correct degree of filling is used, favourable friction behaviour and low grease loss will be achieved.


■
Bearing rotating at low speeds (n · d M 50 000 min –1 · mm) and their housings must be filled completely with grease. The churning friction occurring in this case is negligible. It is important that the grease introduced is held in the bearing or vicinity of the bearing by the seals and baffle plates. The reservoir effect of grease in the vicinity of the bearing leads to an increase in the lubrication interval. However, this is conditional on direct contact with the grease in the bearing (grease bridge). Occasional shaking will also lead to fresh grease moving into the bearing from its environment (internal relubrication).


Bearings sealed on both sides using sealing washers or sealing shields are supplied with an initial greasing. The grease quantity normally introduced fills approx. 90% of the undisturbed free bearing volume. This filling quantity is retained well in the bearing even in the case of high speed parameters


In the case of higher speed parameters, please consult Schaeffler. A higher degree of filling in sealed bearings will lead to higher friction and continuous grease loss until the normal degree of filling is restored. If the egress of grease is hindered, a considerable increase in torque and temperature must be anticipated. Bearings with a rotating outer ring also receive less grease (50% of the normal filling).

97 SL320 is right, the bearing can ooze out a bit of grease, I have seen it quite a lot (not on this particular application though)

as long as the bearing is still rotating smoothly its good for service, whatever grease was pushed out is probably excess fill.

On FWD cars I repack the front wheel bearings with my choice of grease before installing. The first one I did made a royal mess as I had literally packed it. The bearing didnt go bad, just made a mess till it had exhausted the excess grease from itself.

Even the originally installed parts did exactly the same thing. There's nothing wrong with it.