Just for clarification, I was on the road when the engine decided to cut-off. It wouldn't start after that. I had towed and it's now sitting in the garage, starts happy when it's cold and idles nicely for awhile. I dare not drive it out until this issue is fixed...don't want to wait hours and hours for engine to cool off.

Parts listed as "new" were bought online not more than a month old. When Bosch is available, I buy it first. Otherwise, what ever comes next. The fuel systems are all Bosch, or at least it had the Bosch name or brand on them.

I also checked resistance or continuity, where appropriate, for all items I bought and compared with the original component and I can say they're almost all identical. In other words, the items I bought to fix the issue didn't do nothing. Therefore, I now have tons of spare parts.

As for the MAS relay, I had one spare where I took off the cover and looked inside and found no corrosion or the like, installed it but no change.

So, what's chocking the engine when engine runs at operating temperature? ICV?, it spins freely with a 9V battery test but perhaps what's controlling it could be defective but what is it?

Still sounds like CPS. Maybe have someone check it again.

Hi tyl604

The new CPS is measured at 873 ohm. The original has 875 ohms. They're almost identical.

My understanding of the CPS is it transfer crank position via magnetic pulse through the cable and into the EZL.

Can you please explain your idea why you think it's the CPS?

Thanks for your interest... keeps me going and not giving up. : )

Unplug the EHA and drive it like that for a few days and see if the problem is gone. Usually if the car suddenly dies while driving it's fuel related. If car dies while you are coming to a stop or decelerating it might be the EHA, so disconnect that and see if the problem goes away for a few days, then plug it back in and see if the problem returns if it is gone.

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1990 190E 3.0L

Hi Ismalley, thanks for your suggestion. I'll give that a try but I will not be driving it out of the garage; it's now unpredictable and it could mean disaster on the road.

Every test I've done was to confirm the engine will start after it reached its operating temperature and that it will start right up without hesitation. When I achieved that goal, only then will I take it out for a test drive.

In the morning, I will let it run without the EHA and let it reach 80+C and see how it will respond.

Thanks for the suggestions... please keep it coming... I need 2, 3, 4th+n brain to get this fixed! : )