99 S500 m119 timing chain job
 

Hello,
Recently my timing chain jumped on my car and broke the guides. Now I have checked the compression in all cylinders and it is 160-170. So I believe the valves should be ok. I am going to order the febi timing chain kit and replace all of those parts. What else should I replace? The oilers are good. I guess I will have to remove the oil pan and clean all the debris out of there. so hopefully that seals up again. Valve cover gaskets?

Also does anyone know if the febi timing chain kit comes with the upper chain guide gaskets?

We've done this job more than a few times. We buy all the parts separately, so i'm not sure what comes with the kit, but after seeing so many febi chain tensioners fail, I would definitely go with OE on that.

i wouldn't do that job with febi parts, oe only. never had a 119 jump time. i know if a 117 jumped 1 to 4 teeth, valves are ok. any more and the d/s has 4 bent. i'd pull the valve covers and make sure. and i sure as hell would not have tried a compression test before doing a new chain, etc. very lucky.

lol, I drove it 30 miles the compression test wasn't going to change anything. Paul, do I have to replace the tensioner? What guides will I be replacing from the top side of the engine? I will price the parts separate and see if it makes sense to do it that way. Do you usually replace those gaskets I was talking about?

always replace the tensioner, they get weak. always replace all the guides, they get brittle with age. once they get to root beer brown, it's time. you have to pull the covers off, so valve cover gaskets, also.

oe chain, oe tensioner, oe or goetze gaskets and the febi guides will do fine. the non-oe stuff i mention oe for is not worth it. had a febi tensioner fail on a 117 and luckily caught it in time. too tough a job to do again. good luck, chuck.

I'm only doing the upper guides. I'm not pulling the front cover off. So I just need the guides I can do up there. The Victor gaskets ok?

no on victor.

Here's all the parts we replace on that job. We go OE on the tensioner and valve cover gaskets. I don't know what the deal was, but about five years ago we started getting tons of come backs for leaky valve cover gaskets that weren't OE. Disregard the Uro brands listed. I would do all the oilers tubes if they're the original plastic or update to the aluminum ones. This isn't an easy job. very time consuming. You'll need the tool to mount near the cam gears to roll the new chain in.

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16

Paul where did you get those prices from?

imc on the bottom of the page. wholesale only to the trade.

it WAS on the bottom of the page.

I finally have all the parts and want to tackle the job, but I need some instructions. I'm not sure where to start.

Valve covers.. remove intake and exhaust.

Lol way past there. I can't find the tensioner and not sure if I can cut the chain and start doing the guides or when I should pin the cams

Take note of cam positions, start at tdc 1,put a socket at spot where intake cam at driver's side was,have the chain roll over the socket, remove all 4 cams, that way you cant bend valves, cut the chain link , connect old chain to new, with a helper. Crank out old chain, untill center of right side valve cover, remove old chain connect new chain, install cams after turning crank back to tdc, start there and assemble driver's side first ,end with exhaust cam then tensioner last, more details, but in a nutshell thats the basics

I wish it was that easy. I have to replace the guides too. Also thought I could do this without removing the cams? Then I will have to purchase all new bolts for them too?

look here-

05 Engine, Camshaft and Valve Train - M119

good luck, chuck.

TIMING CHAIN
 

Ive done about 10 of those engines , the easiest way is remove the cams, otherwise you risk timing jumping when rolling the chain in , as the factory manual shows with the wedges you need probably 3 people , 1 to crank the engine ,1 to hold the wedges , 1 to hold the new chain and old chain, I don't
believe you need to change the bolts of cam brackets,

Working on this job right now, I still looking exactly where to start. So I removed the stuff out of the way on the front of the engine. Now I think I need to unbolt the air pump and the power steering pump or maybe just the reservoir? so that I can take the front covers off the heads? Then I can break the chain and start unbolting the cams?

Yes unbolt the airpump, remove power steering pump, you will have to use a long extension and a 13mm universal to get to the power steering pump bolts, you will need to remove drivers side down pipe, so that you can get the extension in a position to remove two bolts, 1 is easy to see the other you must feel and guide the 13mm socket to the bolt, its the only way

Need some help. I had 2 mechanics tell me not to replace the chain, just replace the top guides and the tensioner. So I have 3 of the 4 cams removed and I can replace the right guide, but I cant get the left top guide out. Is there any trick to doing this?

also I cant understand why mercedes chose to use cheap plastic parts on the inside of the motor. The oil drain thing that goes into the head the tip broke off and fell into the hole and now it lives with the valve springs, there is no $%^%$#@^%$@#^%$^$@ way that I can get it out. Should I just scrap the car now?

Do you mean part number 7 in 01 -0400 ventilation section of engine ?

I dont know what that means, but I am talking about the oil separator in the right side head

yeah that's the one , if you cant pick it up , don't worry it will eventually disintegrate, just get a new one when you put it back together, the oil pump has a screen , and the piece will just lay up there , move on!

I know that this isn't a well liked job by most technicians, but I don't know why in the world a tech would tell you not to bother changing the chain. Number one, the long chains on the 119 translate into a lot of stretch. Number two, rolling the chain in is the easiest part of the whole job.

yeah i cant see it, fell down by the valve spring hopefully it goes out the exhaust pipe lol

Paul he told me to check the stretch but he said it should be fine. Anyone have any advice on the top left guide without getting that cam out? That is holding me up right now as my power steering pump has 4 of those reverse torq bolts on the back and I can't get them loose

back again. I removed the front exhaust elbow and I still cant get these damn bolts loose. I see 4 bolts on the back and they are all reverse torq style. I have a 10mm socket on there and cant get it to loosen or it just strips off. Are you accessing these bolts from the top of the car or underneath?

post a picture please

<a href="http://s1190.photobucket.com/user/hanly2/media/IMG_20190622_212931.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z451/hanly2/IMG_20190622_212931.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20190622_212931.jpg"/></a>

When I look up the power steering pump, it sells without the reservoir Now if I could just figure out how to remove the reservoir then I could take the front cover off without removing the pump.
<a href="http://s1190.photobucket.com/user/hanly2/media/IMG_20190622_213025.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z451/hanly2/IMG_20190622_213025.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20190622_213025.jpg"/></a>

Three bolts here and one over to the right you cant see.
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<a href="http://s1190.photobucket.com/user/hanly2/media/pump.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z451/hanly2/pump.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo pump.jpg"/></a>

hanly2, they are external Torq fasteners. Purchase the proper tool to remove them, assuming they need to be removed during the timing chain replacement.

Guys, I finally got the pump off. I changed the guides and now I am ready to put things back together. I guess put the cams in place first then torq them down, then turn each one to the pin location and pin it While holding the chain off? Will there be enough slack to turn the passenger intake cam, I know the exhaust one should be easy because the sprocket is off that one. Oh I also need to know how to properly install the guide pins, do they get any sealant?

No sealant necessary, start with exhaust cam drivers side , set to tdc, ot mark, put that cam in as close as possible to holes in cam holdown brackets at front, there should be no slack on cam to crank run, if your off too far remove and reset cam the idea is to get it lined up to the mark exactly when the cam is finally tightened, use plenty of lube on the cam surfaces or assembly lube if you have some, next the intake cam, the adjuster gets turned all the way to the right if it moves then install to the chain, the of course intake cam on passenger side then exhaust , when you finally get all the 4 cams right it may help to wedge the tensioner rail at passenger side slightely so the tensioner will go in the two bolts

I don't understand what you mean about the adjuster. I will get some assembly lube today. I have not removed the tensioner yet. I heard they rarely go bad and I might be better off keeping it then installing the febi one.

The intake cams have movable adjusters, just make sure if your holding the cam that the adjuster is clocked to the right then installed on your chain, you can you tube timing adjuster 104 eng to see how it moves

So the passenger side adjuster gets clocked to the left? I need to go take a look at that

I don't mean to beat you up on the subject, but the guides usually fail due to a chain beating them to death because of chain stretch and/or a weak chain tensioner. You mentioned in a previous comment that you weren't going to replace the chain. IMO, if you're not replacing the chain and tensioner, I'm afraid that you may be defeating the whole purpose of the job.

The outer part gets clocked to THE RIGHT

Can you post a picture of how this thing is clocked to the right? the book is terrible and I dont even seem to be able to move it anyway.

if the adjuster dosent rotate its installed as is your ok