Vacuum line for Euro Headlights?
 

I want to hook up my euro headlight vacuum adjustment in my car.

What I need to know is this.

What kind of vacuum hose can I get, anyone have a part number for it?

2. Where should I tap intot he vacuum system, and do I need to get some kind of vacuum line splitter to split a single line into two lines.

3. If I can go buy some at a local autoparts store, what is the correct size?

4. I am sure its in one of the articles on hwo to hook it up, but if anyone has pointers or tips or things not mentioned, please let me know.

Alon

hey alon...
could you grab me a set of the same stuff, and i'll reimburse you when we get my car in shape....

woo hoo!!!!

thanks bro!!!

Alon:

The installation is in the Star article I sent you, it is an easy job. You will need a female 'T' connector to tie into the economy guage vacuum line, and a female 'Y' connector to tie the 2 headlights together into 1 vacuum line that goes through the firewall by the instrument cluster. Also need about 4 male in line connectors, and a 1 way valve. There are 2 types of vacuum line - you do NOT want the large diameter black rubber tubing that takes the small male inline, Y and T connectors. You DO want the much smaller diameter (looks less than 1/4") white plastic tubing that plugs into the large rubberized inline, Y, and T connectors. Your dealer should have the parts if Fastlane doesn't.

An inline rubberized connector plugs onto the back of each Euro light. the White small guage tubing plugs into the inline connector/Euro light. The white tubing goes through the second firewall/heat-noise barrier through the built in rubber dams - you will see them next to the fenders at the top of this firewall. You punch through one of the holes made for passing through wires and tubing. The white tubing on the passenger side routes in front of the battery, and between the windshield and 2nd firewall, below the wiper, and comes out by the brake master cylinder. The drivers side comes through the firewall dam and meets at the master cylinder.

Add a large 'Y', and you are ready to pull your instrument cluster and light panel and finish up. Once they are pulled, from under the hood you will see a rubber dam in the primary firewall inboard of the Master cylinder - you can punch through one of the small holes and thread some white vacuum tubing through. Attach one end to the 'Y' under the hood. The vacuum switch that goes in the headlight switch panel is marked as to the source and the lights - the Star article describes it better. The one way valve goes between the levelling switch and the T you will install in the Economy guage vacuum line.

Sorry to be so long - the Star article will get you through the whole thing, and Stern's aiming instructions will get your lights alligned. Give me a call if you run into problems and we can set up a 'Euro vacuum switch and aiming' BBG! ;) :D

hey jce,
can you send me the article too?

thanks

Here is the link:

http://www.mbca.org/w124.htm

Thats the one. :cool:

John.. Little problem I see is My car doesn't have an economy gauge . I thinkt hey stopped using those for the 1990 model year.

So my question is can I tap into any old vacuum under the hood? Routing them isn't my issues its the type of tubing to get and the connectors.

The switch has what appears to be 3 vacuum connections to it. is one for each headlight and one for vacuum input? I'll read up on that article like you mentioned.

Alon

After reading that article I have questions.

The vacuum tubing needs a check valve, where and how do I get this.

The lights I asuume are joing by a T fitting then they go to the switch. The vacuum line itself is also t split and one end goes to the orginial vacuum source and the other goes to the switch.

I think I rememebr seeing mine have 3 vacuum points on the switch. is one unused or is it some kind of pass through connection?

I hope to do this soon. As far as rewiring with relays, I see no reason to, with standard 55w bulbs the output is amazing. I can't imagine needing an 80w or 100w bulb at all.

As soon as get this figured out I'll add it to my euro light install DIY article I am writing, which should hopefully explain a bit more clearer what to do for the relays. Lights are simple as can be to remove and install, its pretty mucha no brianer, and the switch wiring is no biggie either. I also found a great way to hook up the city lights using some connector insides which have an opening the exact size needed for the headlight pin itself, and fits right in the socket easily and perfectly.

Jumping the wire over I used these same connectors soldered onto the wires. This makes it much nicer. Its hard to attach to the parking lights witht he limited space, so if you could unwrap the parking light harness to get more leverage on it, it would be much easier. I'll be cleaning mine up soon, as I wired the city lights in about 10 minutes.

Alon

hey alon,
so you're not going to use the relays?

hmm
should i just stick with h4 bulbs then?
are the h4's 55W and h5-80W?
and so on ?

hey alon,

i think they just didn't give us an economy gauge since our cars were the sportier engine equipped w124's...when i was about to buy my car, i looked at a couple of 93's, 94's, and 92's w124 sedans (300E) and they all had the economy gauges....

i think the only one that didn't was the 2.8L 300E i saw...the rest were all 2.6L

i guess that explains why we're 220 miles per tank huh?

i actually made it with 246 miles with 3 gallons left to burn...
16.38 mpg...i think....

woo hoo...
funny last tank i was at 17 mpg

I like to drive fairly hard, so I'm not surprised at my mileage. Its still got great highway mileage. I have been able to do 350 to a tank highway miles.

I decided not to do the relays. since I read that you must disable the exterior lamp out warning indicator.

Plus with the light output of these babies with 55w h4 and 55w h3 for the fogs is more than plenty.

With my old lights I had some 80w bulbs and they were fine, but I took them out to be safe.

Alon

hey alon,
so i can only use the 55W h4 bulbs?


thanks

you could use higher output, but trust me when you see the output of the 55w bulbs I have, you would be shocked.

Alon

so if i went with the 80W bulb, would that mean my lights are still good and won't melt?
when would i need the relay switches?

Well I know some have run 80w with no problems, others have had wiring melt or the switch melt.

The relays protect it, but you have to take the bulb out of the lamp out indicator in the gauge cluster. As the lamp out indicator will light up when you do the relays. From what I have read.

We can still wire the relays for you, thats not a problem.

Alon

hmmm
i actually like the lamp out indicator...
ugh...
maybe i'll pass on the relays too...

Rich, if you want much brighter, PIAA Makes some bulbs called superwhites which are supposed to be very good.

Alon

ok..
thanks for the piaa advice...
ugh...
i failed at chrome taping my lights...ugh...

What do you mean failed?

You mean you couldn't get the chrome tape to stick?

Or you couldn't get it in there cleanly?

hey paul,

i failed because i couldn't for the life of me get the chrometape to fit properly in front of the foglight area....
ugh....

Rich we'll tackle that sunday I'll take care of the chroming of the fog area since I have done ti and know how difficult it really is. :)

Alon

Alon - (or anyone else) -

Did you get your hands on the correct vacuum tubing for your lights?

I'm having trouble finding the correct vacuum tubing. The dealer hasn't been very helpful in that regard - they only sell short lengths specific to a certain engine part/area. I can't find any of that small white tubing anywhere. Does Parts Shop have any? Is there an MB part number I can quote? Thanks!

Chris

I believe it is 000-158-14-35 for the white vacuum line, and 117-078-03-81 for the connectors.

Thanks John, I'll try those numbers with the dealer...

Chris

If there are still any outstanding questions on the Euro light adjuster, I have pretty much documented the install on my 190

http://www.2phast.com/190E/190e.htm#lighting

The vacume tubing can be picked up at your local MB dealer in any length you need, the rest of the parts you can pick up at a local autoparts store.

Don't expect this mod to give you much adjustability, in actuality, its hardly worth it, as it only moves the lights a small amount

beam adjuster
 

2phast

i'm sorry, i have to strongly disagree with you on the height adjustments.

i don't know which adjuster you have [there are 2 types], i get about 2 inches per setting. that can add up [or subtract] quite quickly.

where do you keep your "normal"setting on 0 or 1?

i have mine on 1, that way i can raise them about 2 inches or lower them [about] 4. that is significant.
personally i think this is one of the coolest features on my car.

below is picture of my adjuster

peter

2phast - great link, thanks for the pics.

JCE - I ordered the parts from the numbers you gave me. The parts guy at the dealer was almost, but not quite completely, useless. He couldn't tell me the length of the tubing from that number, so I just ordered one. I'll wait and see how much I get and take it from there. Thanks again.

Re: beam adjuster
 

hey peter,
do you have a w124?
also did you do the vacuum set up yourself?

Peter: you can voice your opinion anytime, but remember you have a different car and different lights. I have a 190 with Hellas and the Euro adjuster like yours. Driving on the street the difference between settings 0 and 5 are minimal at best.

Glad you like yours, I was just expecting a bit more from them, but considering their intended purpose (turning the lights down when the trunk or rear seat is full) then of course they are operating as they should.

Mushedroom,

I hate to hit you over the head with this, but read his signature.

Not to single you out or pick on you or anything, but I this happens so often it's killing me.

Most of us put what car we own in our signature, and we keep asking, "what model do you have?", or "do you have a W124?", when it is right there in his signature.

yikes paul...
having a bad day?
are you really that retentive that you're going to post your irritation of me asking a simple question?

sorry dude...
relax
tranquilo

and in furtherance to your post Paul...you wouldn't know this cause you don't own a coupe...even though my car is considered a "w124" there are many different intricacies between the sedans and the coupes as well as the fact that my car is 24V 3.0L, so i've set myself on autopilot to always ask questions redundantly....
sorry if this irritates you...and if it really does...then don't read my posts

2phast

i hooked mine up when i was just running the standard bosch euros, it works the same with the hella's i have.

hmmm. what kind of range do you get on yours?

where do you keep yours set?

btw you definetly have the sweetest 190 i have seen!

peter

mush- you RELAX-take a pill, read the posts twice.
you are still a "new kid" here.
check my signature or e-mail me with questions

new or old member does it really matter...
if i ask a question should i be thrown onto the chopping blocks cause i may be redundant...

i get asked the same questions all the time on here...and does it really hurt that much to re-answer simple yes and no questions?
"do you have a w124?" yes/no....
it's not like i'm asking you to pull your own teeth...

but regardless...sorry if i irritated all of you guys with my yes and no question.

mushroom

i wasn't even going to respond.

WHAT does matter here is how you treat others.

the courtesy and respect you show will either go along way or it won't.

this is one site that doesn't sit still for a lot of petty games.

peter

ebennz,
no games...
just shocked that some of you can get so bent out of shape
over someone asking "do you have a w124?"
plain and simple. i wasn't the one "hitting me over the head" with a simple question as Paul so gingerly did...
so how is it that i'm treating anyone poorly?

enough said.

It seems to me like rich is being treated poorly for asking a question. Regardless of whether your car was in your signature, is it that hard to respond and say this is what I have? Vs. Giving him a hard time?

Alon

It seems to me like rich is being treated poorly for asking a question. Regardless of whether your car was in your signature, is it that hard to respond and say this is what I have? Vs. Giving him a hard time?

Alon

I really wasn't trying to be mean to Rich.

It was just a gentle reminder...:D

As I've said multiple times before, it's so hard to read into the tone of a posting: sarcasm, wit, humor, tongue-in-cheek, etc.

I was a little surprised at how upset it made you, Rich. I decided that I wouldn't respond because my playful intent didn't get across, but it was no big deal, since it happens with other postings on this board from time to time.

We all just need to lighten up a little... ;)

thank you paul for understanding what I meant. :)

You coming to the GTG in so cal that is comign up. not sure when, but david posted about it in the open section.

Alon

I'm going to the GTG and I just posted there, too.

Make sure you bring Gavin. He's a miracle worker with his detailing tips.

I can also show off my newly installed Bosch euro lights, newly painted wiper panels, and newly painted front and rear bumpers and impact strips.

and don't forget that engine sans oil leaks!! :) hehehe


Alon

That's right! Thanks to Enrique, my head is rebuilt, new valve guides and seals, and the new head gasket. I'm back in business and leak free!

Thank you for the referral for Enrique!

what was the damage?
how long did it take
and do you notice improvement in performance?

The total bill was about $1,990.

The work for the head gasket, valve guides and seals was about $1,600.

The remainign $300 and change was for other extra things I had him do - install the throttle actuator that I bought from Fastlane and couldn't return, flush out the old 'green' coolant from the expansion tank and overflow tank and refill with MB 'yellowish-pink' coolant, new plugs / wires, new light for the shift gate, etc.

My old mechanic quoted me $2,000 just for the head job work, so I was very pleased with the amount of the bill and the quality of the work.

I dropped the car off on Thursday before 4th of July because I had a business trip to New York. He worked on it the Saturday after July 4th, but the machine shop was closed. I picked the car up the following Friday after work, but he was done on Thursday.

There is really no difference in power, but the leak is gone, and the car idles incredibly smoothly. Just perfect. It was smooth before, but not this smooth. It is completely silent and unnoticeable.

awesome...

i've seen my car on the racks and it's got an itty bitty seepage from the block, but when i talked to enrique he told me i didn't have to worry about it for at least a year or so..whew!!!

well glad to hear your car ain't a drip anymore...

woo hoo!