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M104 Mechanical Smog-Air pump delete
Hi All,
I have been reading up on several posts regarding deleting the mechanical air pump on M104s due to pulley bearing etc. Many have gone the route of a simple delete and using a shorter belt. I would be curious as to your long term experience going this way. Any noticeable negatives? Increased belt wear, idler pulley wear? For any air-pump experts, I have another question regarding the clutch engagement. I have over the past few months the dreaded squeal at cold start-up for about a minute and then goes away syndrome, so it seems to indicate the pump bearing is going bad and the pulley bearing is fine as no noise from it after the first minute nor at speed. Unplugged the clutch wire, still happens like clock work, cold start up 1 min screech then smooth?? Okay, remove the clutch plate assembly....Still happens, like clock work????? What could possibly be engaging with both the wire unplugged and clutch assembly (external) removed? This one has stumped me, at first I thought friction possibly but the repeated timing of it cutting out leaves me wondering, unless that little bit of heat generated from friction is what causes it to free up a minute later. Any ideas? This is what's leading me down the delete path, at least to bench the pump and tear into it for a while. TIA
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#2
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Probably the bearing on the clutch
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1993 e300 1995 e320 1994 e320 2006 s500 4matic 2004 Jeep wj overland 2001 Ducati 748 2004 Honda shadow aero |
#3
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Thanks speednjay
Good suggestion on the clutch bearing. Ive got the pump out and will take it apart and see what I find.
In the mean time for those interested in the shorter belt length 935K6 or 6PK935, 93.5 inches in length is a perfect fit, the 92.5 inch belt as in 6PK925 will also work but is tight and wont allow the tensioner to adjust much, so the 93.5 inch one works best and gives a normal tensioner adjustment range. Yay, no more sequel
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#4
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I’ll take your old pump off your hands if your tossing it. I live in California. I need to have everything hooked up and working.
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1993 e300 1995 e320 1994 e320 2006 s500 4matic 2004 Jeep wj overland 2001 Ducati 748 2004 Honda shadow aero |
#5
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Will keep that in mind, I plan on restoring it though and keeping with the car for now, if that changes, will send you a PM
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#6
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Can you explain how you are routing that on the M104 with the 93.5" ?
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"Fubu" - 1993 500E 199/271 (103K) 124.036 "Patty" - 1994 E320 Touring "Sportline" 172/174 (239K) 124.092 "Punch" - 1997 Porsche 993TT (34K) Hang on! |
#7
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Quote:
The length will depend on your particular routing and accessories package, notably with or without AC, but I would imagine most US spec 1994-95 M104s in the E-class came with Air Cond and would have the belt configuration shown in the lower right quadrant. Later M104s have a slightly different layout and possibly an electric air pump rather than belt driven.
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#8
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Quote:
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__________________
"Fubu" - 1993 500E 199/271 (103K) 124.036 "Patty" - 1994 E320 Touring "Sportline" 172/174 (239K) 124.092 "Punch" - 1997 Porsche 993TT (34K) Hang on! |
#9
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no worries
I prefer coffee over both gas or diesel in the mornings too
![]() Still curious as to others experience long term with the air pump removed, particularly on the idler pulley given the 90 degree angle the belt takes there vs a 45 degreeish angle that it had before. If anyone has any long term experience and can report back would be great, particularly if we need to plan to obtain future spares for replacement. Thanks
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#10
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Years ago I had a guy bring me a early/mid 90's SL with the air pump removed and a idler type pulley mounted on a steel bracket they made to replace it. Seemed to work good.
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Jim |
#11
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Quote:
__________________
"Fubu" - 1993 500E 199/271 (103K) 124.036 "Patty" - 1994 E320 Touring "Sportline" 172/174 (239K) 124.092 "Punch" - 1997 Porsche 993TT (34K) Hang on! |
#12
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Not sure about the MB smog pump, but the Ford engine-driven pumps had carbon vanes in them. The black stuff that came out may have just been carbon dust, not exhaust soot.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 157K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 125K (SLoL) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) Gone and wanting to forget: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz] |
#13
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Quote:
There's some really good info and pjctures of all the pump internals disassembled and those vanes look like they're carbon to me. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/186139-w124-smog-air-pump-rebuild.html Must have been carbon dust buildup on either the blade ends or cylinder walls leading to the scraping in my case.
__________________
Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#14
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I recall people saying that they had found the correct bearing in the USA and replaced that to give the pump a new lease of life.
In my case, I found a brand new pump for sale in Greece and bought it for around 230€. When it arrived, it turned out to be almost exactly right aside from a deeper pulley with more grooves - from a V12, I think. Anyway, once installed, with the belt using all but one or two of the grooves, all is now well. Although the clearance is pretty small with the deeper pulley! RayH |
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