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  #1  
Old 12-24-2021, 06:12 PM
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Bad w123 axles

My rear axles are bad
Dont want to drop diff to remove them
I'm going to bolt on axles anyways
Can I cut the old axles in half to remove them
There is no core charge either

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  #2  
Old 12-24-2021, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd75 View Post
My rear axles are bad
Don't want to drop diff to remove them
I'm going to bolt on axles anyways
Can I cut the old axles in half to remove them?
There is no core charge either
Depending on the collapsed length you may or may not have to move the diff. However, the cover will be removed in any event.
The axle shafts can be cut to avoid moving the diff.
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  #3  
Old 12-24-2021, 07:12 PM
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Thank you
Is there a brand of bolt ons you recommend?
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2021, 10:05 PM
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Check in the dieselsubforum. Lots of discussion there on axles
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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  #5  
Old 12-27-2021, 08:28 PM
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Bolt on axles?

Phil Forrest
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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
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  #6  
Old 12-27-2021, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil_F_NM View Post
Bolt on axles?

Phil Forrest
That IS how annular axles are attached. Look up annular vs Homokinetic axles
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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  #7  
Old 12-28-2021, 12:00 AM
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People have had quality issues with aftermarket likely made in China Axles. The same company will be fine for some but not for others. Sort of the luck of the draw.

If you are going to by the Chinese axles my recommendation is to get them locally so if you have an issue, there is no shipping or shipping time to exchange them.

The original axles can be compressed/telescoped in on themselves to some degree. Raising and or lowering the rear control arm increases your clearances. There is threads on removing the axles.
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  #8  
Old 12-28-2021, 12:08 AM
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In post 2 there is attached pictures.
The pic on the left is a homokinetic axle. It has similar "cans" on each end. There is a single bolt hole down the center of the wheel hub end and the differential end is held by a "C" clip.
The picture to the right shows an annular axle at the differential end. It has bolts attaching it to a flange. If your axle boots are ripped the annular axle is the easiest one to replace the boots on.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/338716-half-shaft-removal-83-300sd.html
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  #9  
Old 12-28-2021, 09:47 AM
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Gary said he didn't want to drop the diff to remove the existing axles. He wants to cut them instead. But as Frank said, he will still have to remove the diff cover. And to do that he must get at all the bolts including the very top ones. ISTR that this requires lowering the diff, but I could be wrong.

My chinese axles were from rkotto. GSP NCV48998. They have gone up in price! I paid $47. 18 months later, now $78! No problems with them so far. But a couple of potential issues. The hub ends would not tighten up on the splines. Had to shorten the tube that fits around the hub bolt. Presumably splines were slightly smaller than original. The other issue I saw, was that the inner end of the inner boot does not have the usual clamp. I asked GSP where we would get that type of boot, but even the US office could not get an answer for me. If the boot failed, I might have to buy a complete axle. At $47, not a bad idea, but....
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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  #10  
Old 12-28-2021, 03:54 PM
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When I removed my Axles which I have done for sure 2 times I don't recall lowering the Differential.
I do recall lifting the rear end with a large floor jack by the differential.

I was able to get at all of the bolts at the rear of the differential without removing it from the subframe.

I did remove the differential entirely from the subframe for another reason that escapes me now. What I can remember is I had a devil of a time getting the studs on the differential to line back up with the holes in the subframe. My best guess is that the subframe over the years developed some warpage.

Removing the differential allowed that warpage to alter the spacing of one or more of the subframe holes. Moving heavy objects even on jack under a car is extremely tiering and trying.
I can't remember the exact single remedy. I kind of pointed some of the studs so they would start into the holes and at the same time I enlarged at least one of the holes that I thought was causing the issue.
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  #11  
Old 07-10-2022, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post

My chinese axles were from rkotto. GSP NCV48998....

Graham,
How are these axles holding up?

Do you know if they will bolt on to my OEM flanges in the differential?
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2022, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gymbeau View Post
Graham,
How are these axles holding up?

Do you know if they will bolt on to my OEM flanges in the differential?
No problems so far with the axles once installed.

My 85 had isokinetic axles (no flanges). I have no idea if the GSP or other aftermarket annular axles (with flanges) would fit up to OEM flanges. You might be better to install a complete aftermarket axle. Then no need to disconnect the flanges, but of course, a bigger install job. Or buy reman OE annular axles?

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