Question on EZL Ignition Control Module
 

I just replaced my Ignition Control Module (1994 SL500) and now am experiencing difficult starts (must crank numerous times to catch) and low idle, even stalling. I replaced 015 545 62 32 (07) with 015 545 61 32 (08). I was told it is a direct replacement. Short of going to the dealer for a diagnostic check, any ideas? Are these direct replacements? The old one just died suddenly for no apparent reason. Thanks in advance!

Greg, would you be interested in sending the dead one to me. I might be able to repair it.

Update: Dealer did a $260 diagnosis and tells me that the used EZL does not have the software to detect my Cam Position Sensor. A late model EZL was put on and works fine. Dealer wants $2,700 for a new EZL. I am going to try to get a swap at the dismantler that I picked the used EZL up at.

dpetryk - The dead one is useless to me, what are you proposing? I already sent it to a rebuilder in KY who told me that he can not work on that year as it is "Solid State". Duh! That company was the only rebuilder I could find.

My interest is to see if they are repairable and to understand the technology used in the thing. I have worked on almost all of the other electronic modules in my cars and found them to be repairable. These things are really expensive and I assume that they are as repairable as the rest of the modules in the car.

My proposition is this. If you would send it to me, I would like to disect it and repair it if possible. If I get it working I will send it back to you, if not, I will either junk it or return it, your choice. My interest is in learning what makes them tick inside. I design electronic systems as a profession and I understand complicated electronic systems. Or if you want I would give you some money for it. My interest is purely educational.

Sounds good to me. Give me mailing info and it will be on it's way! If you manage to fix it we can work out some remuneration and I can keep it as a spare, otherwise it is useless to me as it sits now. ...Greg

Great - Thanks for the opportunity to learn something.

Send it to:

American Controls Corp.
6120 West by Northwest Blvd. #180
Houston, TX 77040
713 329-9100

Had a similar experience
 

with my '94 S500 cpe. About 2 yrs ago, the infamous "CE" light came on. That started me down a road that ended up with my Mercedes page w/ info on all of the electronic systems.

The original part number was: 015 545 61 32 with a '93 date code. I replaced it with a junk yard part (from NYC) with the exact same number for $200! The only difference was a later date code of '97. Works fine even today.

The dealer's bs about "not recognizing the camshaft. . " is just that! The DI module (that's a better way of indentifying it) has a connector "2" which is the crankshaft input. Connector "B" is the input from the camshaft sensors. Check my page (www house below): MENU #5 decribes everything about the critter.

To find parts check my page at the bottom for sources of used/new parts.

dpetryk: you're a man after my own heart. Have been able to fix most MB parts also. At least I try. Glad to know that there's someone else who likes to try.

ezl
 

Jim
I would really be interested in knowing what junk yard you got your used ezl from.
thanks...Paul

Hey everyone

I'd love to join in on this group that is dedicated to fixing all of their electrical components.

I'm a third year comp sci student and so far I managed to fix quite a few electronics in my 190E as well, but understanding complex circuits is a different story.

I was looking for a way to get some data out of the CFI module to a laptop, but I have yet to start cracking down on this.

xp

Paul, can't remember . . .
 

the name of the place but it was in NYC. Sorry, it's too long ago.

But just click on the link at the bottom of my page for the Part Trackers network and it will send out a large number of requests. Helps to have the pn you are looking for.

dpetryk,

Have you attempted to fix a cruise control amplifier?

I resoldered every point on mine, and now it works 60% of the time (before it never did).
And it seems to work on and off under load.
It feels like one (or more) of the diodes or IC's is breaking down under load (it normally works fine first thing in the morning, after it warms it goes on and off, then stops completely).
I am almost convinced it is a semiconductor device breaking down.
I am about to open it again and write down the numbers of all IC's and Diodes to replace them. But before I do that I need to know if someone has been able to fix it by replacing any of the components on the board. I remember there where 3 or 4 LM2904's? IC's (Quad Op-Amps I think), most of the stuff on that little board can be acquired from NTE, ECG or Radio Shack for a few dollars.

Yes I have fixed several of them. Resoldering usually fixes them but be aware that I have had many problems wiith the column switch being faulty as well. I even thought it was the module and it turned out to be the switch.

Check your switch.

Interesting.
This morning it worked perfectly, it held the speed without problems all the way to work (15 miles).
I used the switch to reduce and increase the speed, it worked great.
I even stepped on the brake to switch it off and then used the Resume function, not a problem.
I'll try again this evening to go home and will update tonight.
(knock on wood)

Being it's SEALED IN EPOXY . . . that's a NO GO . . .

As expected, going home it did not hold the set speed.
The switch did work as an extra accelerator pedal. Obviously the switch works fine. Tomorrow morning I will try to confirm my theory of breaking down when warm only.
My question is this: Will driving around with the cruise control amplifier removed cause any harm?
I will order as many components as I can get and replace them.
Will update when done, most likely will create a new thread with the findings.
If anyone reads this before I attempt to fix it, and knows which components go bad in the cruise control amplifier circuit board, please post it.