190E 2,3L (2.0l original) not run smothly and black smoke out tailpipe
 

Hi. im from norway and not so good in english but i try anyways.

I have this 1991mod 190E 2.0L, 4years ago it started to run bad, and smoking black out tailpipe and i couldnt fint out what it was.

so i bought a w124.CE-2,3L and drove it to my garage. this car runned good and no problems.

i swaped everything (ecu,sensors,ignition,etc) over to my 190E and the same problems still there.

i dont know where to start figuring out whats the problem is.
i have tested the engine harness and it seems ok.
fuel pressure from fuelpump is ok.
this is a manual gearbox car.

il be gratefull for all answers!

One chassis (1991 201/190),
And
Two different engine packages.

Same problem with both engines - rich mixture.

It would seem that the problem is being caused by something in the chassis that was not changed.
One possibility is a clogged fuel return pipe.

Thank you for your reply.

the fuel return is checked and its not clogged,
i think its something power related going something?

Immediately after starting the engine unplug the cold start injector. It might be receiving power continuously.
If the cold start injector was not changed it could be stuck open.

the injector followed the engine i swapped in, i have tested the cable for that injector and its seems ok. i can double check it ofc.

Can it be a bad ground somewhere that causes this?

Thanx for reply.

A bad ground is unlikely to be a problem here.
After starting the engine remove the cable to the cold start injector, so that it does not have power.

i tried to unplug the cable and nothing happens, same problem.
i tried to unplug Lamda and nothing happens.
i have drained the system for fuel and added new fresh fuel, nothing happens..

im getting tierd of this project werry soon, and just woundering if a k-jetkiller piggyback kit would help me get the car running again?

If you can remember, what was the last work or changes that were done to the car (4 years ago!) before the rich mixture problem started? Was the fuel pressure regulator replaced?

there was nothing done with the car, it just suddently got this problem.

should look more around the fuel pump relay, and the black box on the intake maybe?

Perhaps a picture of this "black box"?

black box on image below.

and another thing. i cant remember if i changed the lamda from the running car. can it be a faulty lamda?
and i had to use the old coolant sensors from the 2.0litre engine. can it be those too?

The "black box" is the Electro-Hydraulic Actuator (EHA).
It does all of the fine mixture adjustment by varying the pressure in the lower chambers of the Fuel Distributor (FD). The EHA has a sufficiently wide range of adjustment that it is possible to create the situation you describe. If the two-wire plug has been attached upside down, and the polarity is reversed, the mixture will be very rich.
Try starting the engine and then disconnecting the EHA.

The ECU will ignore a faulty O2 (lambda) signal, and the coolant sensors will not change the mixture as much as you are experiencing.

The car stalls when i unplug the EHA ??

i got tierd of searching for the problem and have now ordered a standalone EFI kit to the car. hopefully i get this thing to run smoothly now.

It will be interesting to know how that goes - what kit are you going to use?

i went for one not that expensive, with this i can remove the k-jet injection =)


https://kjetkillers.pl/en_US/p/Injection-set-piggyback-EFI-Mercedes-m102-2.3/38



And i have to mention, Thank you for your help and time in my post Frank. im gratefull for that =)

Have you been in telephone or email contact with those people? I ask this question because there have been complaints of no contact, and no shipment of products.

No i havent contacted them. but im gonna contact them via facebook tomorrow just to me sure. Thank you for information

so today i got the kit from kjetkillers. and im not sure how to wire the ecu to the car.

the pins that are in use

1- Power GND
9- Sensors GND
10- IAT
11- Lambda
12- Trigger in
13- +12v
14- Boost PWM
16- injectors A
22- CLT

im not sure what pin 10-IAT, pin 12 trigger in, 14 boost PWM and 22 CLT goes to ?

IAT > Inlet Air Temperature
CLT > Coolant Temperature

Boost PWM - Ignore, not used for this application

Trigger In > either once per crankshaft revolution, which will cause two injection pulses per cycle, or once per camshaft revolution, which will cause one injection pulse per cycle.
The trigger pulse could come from either an inductive magnetic pickup, or from a Hall Effect sensor. The Killer instructions should explain all of this.

From the seller's site intake air temperature IAT sensor


ETA, this Frank guy is too fast !

i was in contact with the seller and they are emailing me better instructions =)
But thanx for the replys. i wil maybe make another thread on this project once im done =)

As it turns out, I think, the "Trigger" signal is supplied from the MB ignition module (EZL). It is the TD signal.

The Boost PWM signal is used to control the Idle Speed Valve.

Allrite! i now got the car running with the kit i bought from k-jetkillers. running smooth and no smoke frome exhaust. only thing is when i start the car on cold engine i cant give it throttle as it just dies. its just for 1 minutte and its ok.

i want to thank everyone for trying to help me and im verry happy for that. i have learned a lot from you guys =)