M104 gunked up EGR line question
 

OK, throught the search I have found mucho info on the common cause of the DTC "EGR low flow"; I removed the lines and threaded a piece of wire rope (I don't have an old speedo cable) into the line that goes to the intake but it only goes in 15". How long is the line that I need to ream out? Is this the blockage I've encountered or is there another reason the wire rope only goes in 15"?? I DID chuck the wire rope in the drill and spin it and I CAN get a pretty good force feeding it into the tube.

TIA,
-Tom

It's longer than 12". Sounds like the wire rope is not going around the corners like it should.

Thanks for the response; I measured it at fifteen inches, does that sound long enough? Does the speedo cable run into a definite dead end after cleaning out the gunk buildup, or does it just keep going into the manifold?

On the W104 15" is not too long. Once it punches through there is not really a "dead end". That last 90 degree elbow is the one that seems to want to stop the "roto rooter" cable.

r/r egr pipe
 

i have just purchased the egr pipe and would like to replace
looking for input as to what is involved
i have tried to clean the pipe but as the others post indicate i am not sure if i have gooten thorugh to the manifold opening
please advise

engatwork,
So are you saying it is not long enough? I'm confused!

domagr, in case you have not already done so, try the "search" for M104 (if that is your engine type) egr valve, and look in the DIY section (top of page) under the heading "evaluating electronic engine controls" it has a couple pictures

I'm pretty sure 12" is not going to get to the part that is plugged which is the last couple inches at the intake manifold end. You will find this is where the most severe pluggage will be and you have to get around a 90 degree "ell" right before it goes into the intake manifold.

If you want to keep the light off for a EGR code, then replace the metal pipe! The pipe has been modified.
Takes about 2-3 hrs & list price for all of the needed parts is $125.

MB Doc,
Is there a TSB on the modification
Thanks

I'm not aware of the parts change.
The plugging does indeed take place at the intake manifold side of the line.
We've been getting good results by:
Disconnecting the line at the EGR valve and the bracket near the oil fliter, then removing the mass air flow sensor and throttle motor assembly, finally the egr pipe is removed from the intake manifold. We can then clean out the gunk using a drill bit (by hand) without removing the pipe.
Interested in any info on the modified pipe, sounds like this is what we should be doing.

Gilly

A modification that you can do if you have the pipe out is at the last "elbow" install a "cleanout" on the heel of the 90 that you can extend out from underneath the intake manifold and have some type of screw cap on it (I envision using a SwageLock cap for this). Anyway, whenever you get the pluggage code all you would have to do is remove the cap and rod out the straight section from the intake manifold side. This mod will take a skilled hand at "tubing" type work - cutting/shaping/brazing/welding.

Gilly, maybe you should look at a new one compared to an original. The replacement one goes into the intake manifold farther. WE cleaned these pipes for a couple of years BUT after 2-3 times with check engine lamp some people get up-set. With a new pipe you should get 3-5 years w/o problem.

WE do at least one of these EVERY day!!

MB Doc,
I would like to replace mine, any chance you could post the part number and cost (from Mercedesshop.com)?
-Tom

P.S. My check engine light is still off after 4 days/ 200 miles, FWIW; I guess the 15" ream did the trick.

-Tom