Front suspension W124
 

Could someone post a picture of the front suspension from a CD or repair manual please. I have a major squeak when I turn the steering wheel. The squeak seems to come from the top of the shock abosorber.
Thanks
JackD

JackD, Do a search of the last month because I asked the same question and was supplied a diagram, but the were no part names on it but it might help you. Search using my user name of dtf.

Thanks for the quick answer.
I found the tread you were talking about.
In the picture, what is Part no. 17 on top of the shock absorber?

(Upper) Strut Mount. You see the top of it when you open the hood.


Jeff Pierce

Can this part be replaced from inside the hood or does it require the removal of the shock absorber?
Thanks

You have to remove the whole strut. The mount attaches to the strut from the bottom.

Jeff Pierce

Jack D,
Before you do anything with the struts, you might want to make sure the fasteners on the strut mount and the strut shaft (center and larger than the other three) are tight.
Also the squeak you are hearing when you turn cannot come from the strut mount provided it is well tightened. The strut mount is made of two plates encapsulated in hard rubber to provide movement and dampening effect. The strut rod or shaft does not turn on the mount itselt rather it turns inside the strut body. For it to produce the squeak you described, the strut must have leaked all the fuid inside, bone dry and in a very very bad shape.
My 2 cents on your problem is a bad power steering pump or something getting in the way of your front tires when you turn.

My 190k mi. 300E just developed this problem (of course because I have a big trip planned today). I looked for the cause and had the wife help. Seems to be from the lower conrol arm pivot (ball joint).

In one diagram it seems like that part is replacable. the sound I have is on the lelft front only. When the car is in the air there is only the occasion faint sound, on the ground it's so nasty it's scary!

Can that lower ball-joint be easily replaced, anything else I can check and why don't ANY of the joints have grease fittings... :confused:

TIA!!!

Hi Holeshot - If your '90 300E is like my '94 E320 wagon, the ball joint is part of the control arm and can't be replaced without the whole control arm.

Had same problem on another vehicle. Turned out to be upper control arm bushings.

I'd vote on the ball joint or maybe the idler arm bushing if on the passenger side.

A ball joint that squeeks will throw noise all over the suspension and they are hard to prove. They will usually have broken boots on ones that squeek.

The ball joints are replacable on all 124 body cars and are item #15 in the above drawing. If you asked any of the guys who do it in our shop they would say they are a piece of cake. We don't even remove the control arm from the car.

I just had the pleasure of replacing a lower ball joint on my daughter's '87 300E last weekend.

DIY? yes / easy? not really

You pretty much have to strip that corner to get to the joint. I supported the control arm (& sping!) with a jack and placed a jack stand just inside the ball joint for support. Hammered the old joint out... had to keep going to a bigger hammer!! It was very stubborn coming out, then suddenly popped out. Pressed the new one in with a C-clamp-type press borrowed from Autozone (FREE).

Awesome guys! The noise is isolated to the left (driver side in the US). It *feels* like a part related to load-bearing suspension, ie it's orders of magnitued worse when making a turn than just sitting idle cranking the wheel back and forth. I'd think if it was sterring box or pump it wouls howl (not squeeke) while sitting still (the most resistance).

Thus I'm hoping (to a certain extent) lower ball-joint. Been a few decades since I've done this sort of maint but since I hardly drive the car I'm going to give it a shot.

I'm just bummed I don't get to take my *classic* on the trip today and have to take the SUV instead (which just got back from the body shop Monday and looks awesome).

I was reading another thread about ball-joints and the Moog (TRW) part did not get a good note.. any suggestions on where I should order the part from? I might also do the front struts at the same time so I'm open to suggestions on those as well.

Here is a photo of my *classic* W124.. :)

I wouldn't worry about driving a car that has a squeeking ball joint. There is no safety issue as long as it still squeeks. A squeeking joint is usually one that is tight due to getting packed with rust. If really tight it will affect the steerings ability to return and that makes the car track badly, as one will be constantly chasing the steering.

Over time the rust wears the joint till it gets loose. A loose joint could be dagerous both for the alignment changes that take place and vibrations, but also eventually a loose joint comes apart. One has to ignore the obvious for a long time before it gets dagerous.

Now if you just can't stand others hearing your car creak then I understand. Drive the SUV.

A couple of notes...

When I chased my squeak down to the ball joint I dropped some motor oil through the cracked boot to confirm the squeak. Gone!

Then a more thorough check found about 1/4" vertical play. That I did NOT feel comfortable with so I changed it. Upon inspection when out there seemed to be plenty of "meat" (metal) still holding and it likely would have gone a while longer.

I still feel safer having replaced it right away though.