How to replace front brake pads on 93' 190e
 

Could somebody give me a pointers on how to remove the front brake pads on my 93'190e ?How to flush the system?I'm very mechanilly inclined person so that be worried ,I just don't want any suprise when im doin it.TIA

How to replace 190E front brake pads


-Jack up the L or R side of the car (there are rubber pads below the O port for the jack if you are using a floor jack.

-Best for safety to also use a jack stand

-Remove the 5 front wheel lug nuts

-Each caliper has two horizontal pad pins about 5" long to hold and locate the pads in the calipers. Use a punch of matching diameter or even a nail and pound out (direction of the engine). Then remove the flat metal spring piece that runs vertically that helps keep the pads separated.

-Open the hood and open the mater cylinder cap. Drape a cloth all around it to prevent over-flow of the paint eating brake fluid.

-Go back to the brake caliper and use a pair of channel lock pliers and compress the caliper puck into caliper by using the outside edge of the old brake pad.

-Do one pad at a time.

-Best to clean the area with a brake cleaner that leaves no residue and evaporates quickly.

-Apply anti-squeak paste to the back and top and bottom edges ONLY of the new brake pad. Anti-seize works well in this application. NO paste on the brake pad surface that rubs against the disk/rotor.

-Reinstall the flat metal spring piece and then tap back into place the two horizontal pins in reverse making sure the inner end is flush with the caliper housing. Use a socket extension if necessary as a tool to reach.

-Do the second pad of the caliper, repeating the above.

-TIP: ONCE both pads are installed, try the brake pedal. Then go to the pads and compress into the caliper. Do this several times. It cleans and lubes the puck.

Note: If the new pad won't fit it probably means the puck crept out. Take the old pad, put it back in and compress the puck back into the caliper. Quickly exchange the newly prepared pad and it should insert easily.

How to bleed the calipers

-Since access exits to the caliper, first remove as much of the old brake fluid as possible using something to suck out the old brake fluid. ONLY USE FRESH BRAKE FLUID! Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture. Old brake fluid does this. ONLY USE FRESH BRAKE FLUID and fill the brake fluid reservoir.

-Attach a piece of tubing to the bleed screw on the inside upper area of the caliper and have it run into a collection vessel.

-I believe the bleed screw is a 8 or a 9mm size.

-Have someone HOLD DOWN the brake pedal firmly while the bleed screw to opened and the fluid is allowed to escape, then close the bleed screw AND THEN have the assistant let go of the brake pedal and pump the pedal until it feels firm.

-Repeat. Check the fluid quantity in the reservoir FREQUENTLY. Repeat the bleed twice more or until the fluid is clean, clear and obviously the new fresh fluid.

-Do this for each caliper, always checking the fluid level.

-Reinstall the wheel; torque the lug nuts to at least 80 ft/lbs.

-Make sure the reservoir is topped off, no higher than the full mark. Secure the lid.

Drive the car carefully for the next few miles in order to let the new pads seat. ALWAYS use caution. New pads don't stop well at first.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted,

Haasman

For your info...
 

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BrakePads

It is under the DIY on top of this page. Your car should be similar to the E class.

Good luck!

Just a couple of small additions:

1. If you're going to bleed the brakes, do them in the following order......right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
2. Some people tape a reminder notice " NEW PADS ", to the steering wheel, since it takes a day or two, to break-in the pads. ;)

Haasman covered it quite thoroughly. One additional step for a better fluid flush would be to remove the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and add fresh new fluid before bleeding the brakes. This bleeds the brakes faster with less mixing of old fluid with new.

Ditto on cleaning the caliper, especially where the pad is installed. A lot of grit accumulates in these grooves that can preclude good seating of the new pads. The packed-in grit needs to be removed - preferable with a wire brush - or you may not be able to fit the caliper back over the rotor. MB brakes are a tighter fit than most other cars.

Put some fresh fluid in the receptical to prevent inadvertantly getting air into the system if the brake pumper happens to let up on the brakes when the system is open.

BTW, the resident brake expert at a big Mercedes dealership told me they stopped having to replace master cylinders when they stopped using the old fashioned pumping method. He said that a surprising number were being damaged. The key is to not allow the brake pedal to go beyond where it normally goes, i.e. do the bleeding in small increments.

Thanks guys ,I'll keep you posted.This is a good project for the long weekend.