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  #46  
Old 07-06-2003, 03:01 PM
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Sixto,

Did you clean the pistons when they were in up position? and did you have to turn the engine to get them up? I have the engine at TDC right now and I don't want break anything at this point. Specially with the timing chain still on.
Number 1 and 6 cylinder are in the up position...

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  #47  
Old 07-06-2003, 04:23 PM
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It took some Rube Goldberg thinking for me to plan it. You can spin the crank twice to be back in phase with the cam although I suppose spinning the crank once does the same thing since there's no phasing of the crank. The Dieseler in me says to spin in 720-degree increments. If you marked the cam sprocket and a link you'll lose the relationship unless you know how many crank turns gets a link back to the same spot. You can't count links without turning the crank so math's not an option. It might be if you have access to a another chain. You can zip-tie the cam sprocket to the chain loose enough to let the chain flow but tight enough not to lose timing.

In the end it seemed like a lot of work so I used a vacuum to pick up what I scraped off with the 2-3-4-5 pistons lowered They're not spotless, but I must have knocked a point off the compression.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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  #48  
Old 07-06-2003, 07:57 PM
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I have used a plastic "scrubbie" like the ones used to clean teflon kitchen pots and pans. Won't scratch metal.

Haasman
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  #49  
Old 07-06-2003, 08:26 PM
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Thanks Sixto,

I will clean as best as I can but, I will not spin the crank at all.
Tomorrow the head goes to the machine shop and the valve cover will get a powder coating. I am still debating if I should coat the exhaust manifold (similar to jet coat) in this place that is about 45 minutes from my house and, if it is worth it. I will investigate further tomorrow (Monday).
Wish me luck!
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  #50  
Old 07-07-2003, 08:14 PM
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Update:

I received a call from the machine shop. They checked the head and there is no problems just normal wear and tear. It will be ready on wednesday (I hope).
I also took the valve cover to have it powder coated, it should be ready in 5 days (Friday).
I decided to coat the exhaust manifolds with Metallic Ceramic Coating. It is a small place about 45 minutes from my house. It is suppose to lower the temperature in the engine bay and it will not rust. They had some samplesof their work and they look GOOD.
I figured, with the money I am saving by DIY...I should invest that money in the rusted looking manifold while it is out. It should be ready by Friday also...I hope.
On more thing, I talked to Phil, from PartsShop, and he said they don't sell the sealant anymore (something to do with the government. He recomended to go to NAPA.
I called local distributors of Loctite and nobody has 5900 in stock. I may end up buying from the stealership for $22, buy the "right stuff" from Pepboys, which I read some people used it with success or NAPA for a product Hylomar? as Phil suggested.
I will take some pictures and post when I am done (I hope).
Peace!
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  #51  
Old 07-07-2003, 08:29 PM
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How bout posting the name/address/phone of the powder coating outfit you are using.
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  #52  
Old 07-07-2003, 08:44 PM
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For Engatwork,

Ask and you shall receive:

For the Exhaust manifold:

J&D Performance Coatings
(904) 879-1803
Callahan, Florida.

For the powder coating:

PowderTech Plus
(904) 269-1719
Orange Park, Florida
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Last edited by J.HIDALGO; 07-07-2003 at 08:50 PM.
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  #53  
Old 07-09-2003, 12:58 PM
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Update (again):

I just got the head back from the machine shop. It looks good. I will be installing it this P.M. Any final advice?
I did bite the bullet and purchase the sealer from MB $22 for 50 ml.
It better work!
Wish me luck!
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  #54  
Old 07-09-2003, 07:31 PM
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First major problem!

I decided to change the guide rails. Now, I am stuck. I can not remove the the belt pulley since I do not have the the crakshaft/ring gear holding lock. Can I used something else? I do not want to break anything. I will post on a separate post for immediate answer.
This is job 03-3420 on the CD.
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  #55  
Old 07-09-2003, 10:47 PM
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J. H.

I haven't looked up the service task you mentioned in your last post, so my reply my be useless, but if you're trying to loosen a pulley by turning a center bolt counter-clockwise, a strap wrench wrapped around the pulley might work.

Sears gets $10 - $20 for them - forget the exact price.
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  #56  
Old 07-10-2003, 12:52 AM
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From the earlier posts about the $22 sealant, I'm guessing you'd prefer not to spend $100 or so for a one-time-use flywheel lock, but I'll offer a nickel's worth of free advise. When I did the same job on my 1986 (a full description elsewhere) I tried improvising wedging a piece of angle iron through the access hole. Ultimately it did work, but the forces are tremendous, and I busted a half moon out of the edge of the aluminum casing. I wish I'd spent the $100. The strap wrench is no-risk, but I don't think it will be strong enough. That puppy is reaaaaaaly torqued on there. The only way I would improvise is if you literally take the time to *fabricate* a tool. Don't just jam something in there.

Good luck.
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  #57  
Old 07-10-2003, 12:57 AM
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Can you make a similar tool? Seems like you can use a block of wood and a big screwdriver. I don't know if it'll hold 300Nm putting it back, though.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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  #58  
Old 07-10-2003, 06:35 AM
zhandax
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Would this decision be based on some damage to the rail? After putting the pin back in, I noticed a small piece of the rail waving in the breeze at me. About 3/8" triangle. (bad picture after pulling it off the rest of the rail attached ) I re-installed the cover and plan to run it.

I might change my mind after hearing some feedback, but it does not appear to have the potential of making a material impact on the operation of the system.

This decision was influenced greatly by a suggestion that I pull the A/C condenser to get the 250ft/lb impact wrench in there to remove that bolt.
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Head gasket/valve job 103 engine-300e-head-reassembly.jpg  
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  #59  
Old 07-10-2003, 06:40 AM
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It seems like the guide is fed from the sprocket in a straight shot so there is no load on the guide at that point, just a chain sliding through. Besides, it looks like what broke is the plastic 'thing' that fits over the guide, not the guide itself. I can't imagine that the plastic 'thing' takes any load to begin with. It's easy to call from where I am. It all depends on your level of comfort... and what the techs say.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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  #60  
Old 07-10-2003, 07:11 AM
LarryBible
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DON'T USE ANY ABRASIVES INCLUDING SCOTCH BRITE OR SCOTCH BRITE TYPE WHEELS TO CLEAN PISTON TOPS OR GASKET SURFACES!!!!!!!!

This abrasive will get in the engine and destroy it in short order. To get the carbon off simply use a hardwood stick or some such and scrape it off. To clean the head mating surface, use a scraper. What makes a great head surface scraper is a large mill file ground off at an angle on the end. Not ground to a point like a chisel, but simply ground on one edge.

Use a scraper very carefully to ensure that you don't gouge or slip into a cylinder wall.

The surface cleaning products that are sold for use in a drill should NEVER be used on internal engine parts. The grit from these things is as if you poured sand in your oil.

Good luck,

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