300 E - links on rear end - naming convention

[hs_300e]

I was looking up the MB manual for an '86 300E - file 35-115.pdf of the Chassis section and the different links that hold the rear wheel carrier in place are listed as:

1. Thrust arm
2. Tie rod
3. Torque strut
4. Spring Link and
5. Camber strut

I am trying to purchase the thrust arm and the tie rod and when I look up fastlane, they have the Thrust arm and Camber strut listed under suspension components. But the other three are under different names (control arm strut, sway bar link and I can't find the third one).

If someone could please correlate the above five with the designations on Fastlane, I would really appreciate it.

TIA.

1. Thrust strut = thrust arm
2. tie rod = control arm strut/tie rod
3. tourque strut = ? control arm
4. Spring link = ? Sway bar link, maybe
5. Camber strut = camber strut

Just ordered the thrust and tourque strut and I am putting them on right now, but my shop called them something different as well and left my paperwork at home. The 2 that seem to wear out first are the thrust arm and the tourque strut, the 2 closest to the tie rod. Hope this helps.

[hs_300e]

bump

[csnow]

Yeah, I think they simply ran out of good descriptive names for each those 5 links. Also, I am fairly convinced that all of the wearing parts are not actually listed.
I would suggest sending an email to Phil, and requesting that he email you back a diagram picture of the rear suspension.

Did this a couple of weeks ago for some shifter parts, and it was most helpful to be 'on the same page'.

Best of luck. Let us know how it goes.

[hs_300e]

I replaced all the links on the rear of my car ('86 300E) and finally figured out the Fast Lane equivalent name for all the links (as compared to the MB manual):

MB Name--------------------------->FastLane name
---------------------------------------------------------------

1. Thrust arm ---------------------> Thrust arm
2. Tie rod -------------------------> Control arm strut
3. Torque strut -------------------> Control Arm Stay
4. Camber strut ------------------> Camber strut
4. Spring Link ---------------------> Sway bar link

Phil at Parts shop has a kit that includes items 1 thru 4 above and all the required hardware (bolts and sleeve) (for both left and right sides) called the 210 KIT (in the partsshop web page type 210 KIT - including space and caps) for $225 which is a great deal.

Also, on an older 124 chassis (like my '86) you will need an extra set of bolts (210 350 45 06) and sleeve (210 352 00 43) (for the torque strut) apart from what is included in the 210 KIT.

Are any special tools (spring compressors) required to install the 210 kit?

[hs_300e]

You will need a torx bit. Just take one of the bolts that come in the kit to Sears or any other place and buy a torx bit that fits.

Also, if you have a 17 mm and 19 mm closed end wrench (not the one with the open end) (i don't know the technical name for it), it will come in extreeeeeeeeeeemy handy in places where there isn't much room for a socket to fit.

And a breaker bar comes in handy too.

Also, make sure you have the rear axle level before you torque all the bolts down.

Good luck.

[psfred]

ACtually, it's a 12-point driver, sometimes called a "triple square" driver.

I had my brother ream out the end of the torque strut to use the old bolt, I couldn't get the rotor off, stuck like I've never seen, and with the backing plate in place, I couldn't get the new bolt in the hole on the wheel carrier.

I wish I'd known of the kit, I suspect I will be replacing all of the links eventually.

I also wish parts suppliers would use the MB name for things, it's not like it's something top secret, and the names of the parts are common, it's not really necesary to invent something new (unless someone patented or copyrighted the names).

You must hold the wheel carrier level when doing final tightening because the steel sleeve is clamped in place by the bolt on both ends of the link. If you tighten up with the suspension down, you will probaly over-stress the rubber bushing, and it will fail rapidly.

I will take the entire rear subframe out to do the the rest of the links on the 300D -- it needs new diff mounts and subframe mounts anyway, and I will have clearance to use air tools with the subframe out. Shoudl save a couple hours time on the torque strut inner bolt alone!

Peter