Repairing the B pillar W126 - illustrated
 

Very well done!! :cool:

I did my '91 350SDL in the same manner ... wish I had spent more time cleaning, though. I just pulled edges back and tried to direct the adhesive spray where it needed to go ... I had some detriorating foam mix with the adhesive and form a slurry ...

Bottom line - I wish someone made the right kind of low viscocity adhesive in a brushable format ... would have been easier, I think.

The photo series is a GREAT way to explain projects - I am going to do the ecamera thing soon and will start taking photos that not only will help me remember where part "a" attaches to assembly "b," but will allow me to share lessons learned more effectively.

What kind of viscosity are we looking for? I work at a adhesive company and we have many products that are brush on, or rather just "popsicle stick" applications.
Bob

I like your section on the leather. I live down the street from you in PA. Do you want to get together and give me pointers on my seats? I'll buy the brews! I need to ge my seats looking like yours do in the 300sd

Mingson
 

There's really nothing I can add to the illustrations and related annotations on the leather repair.

What else would you like to know?

Do you sand all the leather? Or just the parts that you filled? It looks like it is new. I have seen some finishes where the leather looks like it is filled and the pores are gone. Is that the case with yours?

Only car, the person that did the leather paint/dye did a poor job in that it is starting to crack, it looks as if the paint was too thick or something.

You roughen up all the leather but most of the sanding is of the FlexFill areas. You want some 'tooth' for the dye. If your perforated leather inserts are damaged, they s/b replaced.

There is a (minimal) loss of texture on the solid leather if you do not overdo the Flexfill - the original leather on the earlier W126 cars is pretty smooth. Later cars have more textured leather and I cannot comment, not having done one.

As with all things, a little is better than too much.

The Surflex dye/paint is water based - note what I write about getting rid of any brush marks.

Bottom line - which would you rather have - ugly cracks or some minor fluctuations in textuure?

Is that what the steel wool is for at the end. To remove the brush marks and to dull the shine a bit?

No. You use it to prep the surface before the dye. Use a fine diluted final coat of dye.