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#1
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What is required for idler arm repair?
I bought an idler arm repair kit and can't get the old bushings out. It is hard to hit them out because the collars are so close on the inside and nothing to grip on the outside. Would this be a job for an indie? Also what is the part name the the bushings are holding? it is the arm that holds the right tie rod. The car is a 1979 300SD w116. I think a lot of Benzes have the saem setup for the idler bushings though.
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#2
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I just did this on the weekend on my 84 190D. I'll tell you what I did, but the parts / procedure may be slightly different on your car.
I had a bit of trouble removing the old bushings. In my case, I got a bunch of pieces out that didn't resemble the new bushings I had, and I almost gave up, thinking I bought the wrong replacement parts! It turned out that the bushing had just come apart. I'll assume you've removed the heat shield and the bolt that goes through the bushings (mine was 22mm). Here's what worked for me: Get under the car, and hold a hammer almost vertically (with the head up, handle down). Slide the claw side of the hammer down the tube that holds the bushings, so that the claw impacts the flange that sticks out from the bottom bushing. Do this really hard, about 50 times. Use as much force as you can. The force should almost lift you off of the ground when you contact the bushing. Eventually, the bottom bushing will come out. With this technique, the tube helps guide the claw of the hammer as you are applying force, so it's easy to bash the tiny flange on the bushing really hard and reasonably accurately. Once the bottom bushing is out, stick something (a large bolt, piece of wood, etc) up in the tube so that it contacts the bottom side of the top bushing, and bash on that with the hammer to push the top bushing out from below. Matt |
#3
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How do you know
How do you know if your idler arm is bad? Just look at the bushings or are there noticable symptoms with the vehicle?
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#4
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When I did this on the 123, the problem was driving out the lower bushing. I did it by buying a long brass rod, 1/8th inch by 2 feet. From above the engine, I fed the long brass rod through the engine compartment and into the top of the idle arm assembly. Use a hammer on the top of the rod to apply blows to the idle arm bushing from above. This took a few blows and the bushing came out. The upper bushing can be punched out from below with a brass punch. Use brass so you dont put any scratches in the idle arm housing. Brass will not scratch or mark the steel, it is softer that steel.
Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#5
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The bolt has some slop in the arm itself. I have new bushings also. I think it is worn from driving it with bad idler bushings. The arm could move up and down and we removed the bolt from the arm and it had play in it. It has more play in the arm then in the bushings actually. I am getting a used arm from a guy on th forum soon.
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
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