Difficult Tie Rod Removal
 

I just tried to remove the passenger side tie-rod on my 84 300sd. Using one of the cheap tie-rod end pullers that Autozone rents (which is just a little too wide) I easily removed the outer end. However, my inner end is being quite stubborn and would not come out of the bracket. I used this puller, a forked separator, tapped with a hammer, and used plenty of PB blaster, but no success.

Just to be sure...the inner end is removed the same way as the outer end, correct? No trick procedures? Any suggestions or techniques?

I actually had this inner end replaced a couple years ago and I noticed that it looks significantly different than the other original ends and the new ends. I wonder if it wasn't the right part and the shop forced it in.

Any idea of somewhere that might rent a better puller? (I know the $90 one from PP is good, but I can't spend that much)

P.S. Any idea how you can tell if the steering damper needs replacement?

Often hammering repeatedly works along with heat. Can you put any heat on it?

Also, since it is going to be replaced, put the nut back on and bring it up even with the end of threaded portion and whack on it there as well.

Regarding the steering damper and whether it needs replacement, take one end off and see how easily it moves in and out. It should resist well and not skip or have any air sounds in it.

Haasman

I second the hammer method.

Although it may sound crude, two or three hammer blows along the side of the center-link where the tapered stud is fitted is usually all it takes. Resist the temptation to hit the threaded portion of the old tie-rod end and leave the nut on partially (two or three turns). Heat is another alternative but hitting something that splatters hot grease is not really necessary. Try the hammer method but be sure to give yourself ample room to make a few solid strikes.
Good luck.

Give it a few hard hits with fork and small hand sledge bingo...........
William Rogers.......

Regarding the hammering, holding a second heavy (not garden variety nailing hammer) against the other side often helps with the impact.

The hammering is to release the tapered shaft. It doen't take much and you are only trying to achieve a quick moment of compression just at the right spot.

Or as a tech I once worked for said: "Figure you are going to whack that thing either 20 times really hard or 100 faint glancing blows ..... need more time"?

Haasman

tie rod removal
 

air chisel/hammer with a pickle fork will take it off in 2 seconds.....

Beat it off?
 

I am timid about beating off anything. Not much luck with that technique either. I used a 2 stage puller and never had a problem. I busted a cheap one on the 3rd tie rod end. It was clamped to the end and the bolt sheared off. Had to saw it off.

Since you using a pickel fork and a hammer I figure your replacing the tie rod ends. If so use a propane torch on the fitting. It will expand the outer unit and allow the ball joint to release. It will also melt the rubber around the ball joint. But as long as your replacing... who cares. After heating the unit then use the pickel fork.

Dave

The way it worked for me was to whack a pickle fork into the joint until it sat snug and then a couple of blows against the side of the part that has the eye end. The one that the threaded shaft goes through. The blow to the eye provides more of a shock to the siezed parts than trying to push or pull the two apart. The blow has a kind of sphincter effect so to speak :)

when in doubt ...use force....or air tools
 

When I said "hammer" I meant air hammer with a pickle fork attachment.....it'll take it off.....tie rod ends will be toast too....