I looked at the Fram cartridge-type filter for my 450SL at the auto store the other day. It is made in India, and it has some sort of paper(?) wrap around the element, and it is SEWN together!!!

The Carquest (Wix) filter I previously purchased has a steel wrap around the filter element. I didn't look for a manufacturer's mark, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was made by Mann or similar.

Go figure... :silly:

I wouldn't put a Fram filter in a MB. What are these things Yugo's use good parts. I have an STP filter in the SD because if it blows I couldn't give a crap.

The SDL gets OE MB filters, as will any future MB I care about.

I used to run an OE oil filter on my Camry because it was $1 cheaper then the oil filters Autozone sold.

I once called Wix to ask them questions about their filters, and we got on a discussion about the filter industry in general (the guy I talked to was fantastic, in terms of good information).

He said that Wix, Baldwin, Donaldson, Racor, and FleetGuard all regularly buy filters from one another and rebox them. It boils down to supply, patents, and cost.

1) If one filter company has a low supply on hand, they'll buy their competitor's filters and rebox them so they can keep their customers happy.

2) Some filters are patented and the other manufacturers have to buy from the ones with the patents.

3) Sometimes it's just more cost-effective to buy from your competitor than retool the line for a low-selling filter.

They all exchange filters with each other - I then called Baldwin and FleetGuard, and they admitted the same thing about the industry.

Here's the relevant part; both Wix and FleetGuard said they will not exchange filters with Fram because they don't meet or exceed OE specs across the line like the top filter companies do.

On a personal note, I get Wix filters from www.fleetfilter.com - I've always liked Wix.

We went through this in great detail over in the DD forum. To bad the thread was deleted.

Take the 603 stuck in the W126 for example, all of the oil filters for that car seem to come from one maybe two factories.

Approximately how much do the OE MB filters cost from the dealer? If I went with something other than an MB filter, what should I go with? I need to change the oil in my car ASAP, but cannot get to the dealer until next Tuesday! Anything I can use until next change when I get a MB filter?

The car is a 1985 380SE and really unsure about what brand of filter would be best for this automobile, with 263K. I have heard a lot of different suggestions for oil brand/weight, so still in the dark about that as well. Also, how many quarts of oil does this car take? I do not have a manual yet (on the way), so as you can see, I am "dumb" about all of this for this car. :)

Thanks

Click on the Fastlane tab at the top of the page. Get a Mann, Henst or Knecht/Mahle.

Len

Clarification of details from an old codger who thinks he remembers correctly.
 

Ferraris from about 1959 through the early '70s came with two filters, usually Fram, but from a plant in Italy. On one side of the front of the motor was the PH2804, a full flow filter which was a higher pressure rated version of the same dimensions as the usual Chevrolet filter of the era, PH14, I think; my classic Lancia Fulvia took the same filter and a lot of owners of both brands had no trouble with the regular GM model filter. The other filter was a by-pass filter which filtered all the oil which was released by the pressure relief valve as it headed back to the pan rather than going through the bearings; this was a Fram PB50, same filter as specified for 1958 AMC Rambler sixes and a number of early '60s FIATs before they switched from by-pass to full-flow filtration.

Because of the differences in design between the full-flow and bypass filters, reversing their positions by mistake could cause serious problems.

Anouther cheap filter symptom?
 

I am still working on getting the baby benz on the road and noticed yet anouther issue that may be filter related and want to see what you guys think. I have changed the oil to mobil 1 15w50 but did not take time to go to the dealer for the filter, not sure now what brand it was, not fram but not oe or purolater wix etc. The car had been sitting for 2 weeks and the temp is down in the 40's on start up the engine was clattering like a lifter wasn't pumped up or maybe the chain tensioner? Oil pressure was at three bars, I tapped the throttle and it instantly quieted down. My normal oil pressure is three bars at cold idle and 2 to 2.5 at hot idle, three bars always when above idle. any thoughts on this? by the way I have ordered 4 mann filters and will change it out when they come in.

That doesn't sound like it was related to the filter. My guess is, due to the combination of not running for 2 weeks, cool temperatures, and thicker oil; it took a little longer for the oil to get to the lifters. I wouldn't worry, but I would use the Mann filters next time.

Thanks. I went there, but could not find any oil filters.

You mean these?
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1FU1CD1PL1OO18IQAF&year=1986&make=MB&model=560-SEL-001&category=A&part=Oil+Filter+Kit

Thanks. Yes, those filters, but for a 85' 380SE. I found those too by changing vehicle. I really need to change my user name.

According to that, the filter on my car is the "canister" type. The old filter comes out and a new one goes back in the housing? When I checked this auto parts site, it shows this type of "Bosch" filter:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BOS&mfrpartnumber=72140&parttype=1&ptset=A

Can I just use this Bosch filter on my car, or are the photos misleading, as I know they can be on these sites.

Thanks!

86560SEL,

Your 380SE has the same engine as my 380 SL. Use a MANN, Hengst, or Mahle oil filter. It is a canister type filter. Essentially it is just the filtering element. The filter is located on the passenger side of the engine, in front, towards the bottom. There is a nut in the center, I think 15mm. This holds the cover on. The nut is on the bottom of the cover, so you are basicly lowering the cover as you lossen the nut.
These engines take 8.5 qts of oil. As for what weight oil to use, I will tell you what the owner's manual says, as ALL owner's manuals say. It is based on anticipated outside temps. 15W-40/15W-50 is is to be used for temps. all the way down to 5 degs. If you expect to be driving it in temps lower than 5, then put 10W-40 in, that is good down to 4 below 0. If the temp. never gets below 32, then use either the fore mentioned 15W-40, or 20W-50.
As for what brand, this is where things get ugly, as everyone has an opinion as to which is best. In my Benzes, I use either Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 (Walmart $6.72 a gallon) or Mobil Delvac 1300 15W-40. For my Porsche, in the cooler months 15W-40, in the warmer months, Kendal 20W-50.

Thanks very much Rick for that detailed information. I was really in the dark as what to do, as this is my first "driveable" Mercedes and I just bought this car and know nothing about it. I have an owners manual on the way.

Can those filters be bought at a local autoparts store? I will check the dealer to see what they have them for.

As far as the oil weight goes, it does not get that cold here. I am in northeast Tennessee, where it rarely drops below 20*. Normal "coldest" low in mid January is 25*. Typically in the 40s here for highs in the winter and mid 80s to lower 90s in the summer, with lows in the upper 60s and lower 70s. I think that 15W-40 would be good then.

What about synthetic oils? If it has never been used, should I switch over, or if I use it, can I switch back to regular oil? My car has 263K and as far as I can tell, no leaks. The PO said it did NOT burn oil and I have not noticed it ever smoking, even on first startup. I just want to put in a good oil that will protect my engine for a long time. (Thats a dumb statement- who don't?:D)

Would you happen to know the size of the bolt on the oil pan?

Thanks again!