This is a follow up to the broken top chain rail on a 87 16V. Finally got the pan loose so I can attempt to get the front chain cover off. M.B. Doc,thanks for the recommendation of replacing the lower guides too. So far, eleven pieces of rail in the pan. By far this car is the most challanging to work on. What a pain in the ass to get the power steering/AC bracket off!!!!

The question of the hour is... What is the best way to raise the motor to remove the oil pan? Can you support it with a floor jack or do I need to rent an engine hoist? Anything else to replace while I have it this far apart? I don`t want to do this again any time soon!

As always any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

RENT THE HOIST..PLEASE...The best you can do with a floor jack is a few inches and it's probably not safe and you run the risk of bending or breaking something. We all want to see you get thru this w/o any further damage to you or your car..If you have the pan off, there are a ton of things you could replace. If the miles are high and you are not happy with your oil pressure..guess what.

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Jeff Lawrence
1987 300e
1989 300e
1987 BMW 325

[This message has been edited by jeffsr (edited 07-02-2000).]

Get the hoist and remove both of the lower bolts from the engine mounts. Good luck


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Benzmac:
Donnie Drummonds
1991 GMC Syclone
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

At dealer & on race car we always remove engine mounts & disconnect coolant lines (ie; broken rad neck), then we raise engine upto tunnel & put 4x4's(cut to exact length) where the motor mts were. Only way to get enough clearance. Removal of 1st main bearing cap & oil pick-up tube is usually necessary.

Hi,
I too want to thank you for the tip on the chain rails. I dropped the oil pan on my 16V last night and found about 8 pcs of the lower rail in the oil pan. The middle rail was also missing the small end clip. I found it in the oil pan also. I used the 4X4 method to keep the engine raised. I raised the engine as far as it would go and cut 4X4s to keep it up. I still don't have enough clearance to remove the oil pan. The oil pick up tube and the dipstick tube are hitting the oil pan. How can I remove the dipstick tube? I tried pulling on it but it won't come off. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

What a nightmare eh??

As you have discovered, you can not remove the pan without removing the dipstick tub and oil pump pickup. I got the motor as high as I could, trans wedged up into the trans tunnel. I then reach into the pan and removed the oil pump pickup. You need to perform Yoga to get at it with a small 1/4 drive rachet. The dipstick tube is a whole additional nightmare. I ended up ruining mine as it would not come out. You will probably do the same and pound it out from the bottom. You probably now have come to the conclusion that this a job best completed with the motor out of the car. IMPORTANT. After you destroy the dipstick tube (I know you will as it is impossible to get out) Get an other one from the dealer and put it in the freezer. When you install the new one, after reinstalling the pan, heat that area of the block up nice and hot with a torch before you attempt to install. Mine would not go in and seat at the same level of the old one, about 1/2 -3/4 of an inch off. You can not knock it in because you will destroy it once again. Do the best you can. Oh and installing the new rachet style tensioner can be a bear.

Good luck.

Tinker

I feel for you guys trying to hoist that motor up. ( I need to do the chain and rails on my '84 - 8v)

Is is easier just to yank out the whole motor?
( The bell housing bolts are easy compared to the other headaches)

. Any thoughts?

__________________
Patrick Leber
'84 190E 2.3
'83 Porsche 944 (track car)
'84 Porsche 944 (parts car)
85.5 Porsche 944 (sled)

Tinker,
Thanks for the tips-yes, what a nightmare! I'm almost at the point where I may just go ahead and yank the entire engine and tranny out instead of attempting to perform the rest of this operation with the engine in the car. I just got back from the dealer today and picked up my rear sportline springs and shocks as I am also in the process of eliminating the self-leveling rear suspension. While there, I bought a tube of the MB sealant for the chain cover. I don't want to do this again because of some oil leak. Any tips on how to remove the 27mm crankshaft bolt? BTW that was some AC/PS bracket wasn't it-speaking of over engineered.
Thanks
Steif1

Herr,

I don`t know about the 8v`s, I bet they are a whole lot easier to work on.

Steif,

Ya that power steering bracket is a mother. How about that steel oil line that block access to one of the bolts. And then you need to loosen the clamp that holds the oil line, only the allen head holt can not be accessed due to no room! Couldn`t you just shoot/kill the engineer that designed that! Oh and by the way, that same allen bolt took me about a half a day (no kidding) to get started and tightened when putting it back together. My girl friend (now wife) at the time was scared to death to be around me. Had never seen me that pissed off in the five years she has known me.

You need an air compressor to get the pulley nut off and then I used a Snap On gear puller to get that pulley free. Your getting there, almost half way...keep at it.

All my prayers and support are with you.

Tinker

In addition to the air compressor you will want a 1/2" drive impact wrench with a strong 27mm socket to fit it. You will not think it is doing anything but it will take it off. I tightened the one on the 240D engine using the same set up.

__________________
Jim

Thanks for the tips and prayers. I'll need all I can get. Things are looking pretty good at this point. I was able to remove the oil pan without disconnecting the oil pick up or dipstick tube. I had to remove both oil and transmission cooler lines and swing the compressor off to the side to get enough clearance. Having the car on ramps is required because the pan swings down in order for the raised rear portion to clear the crossmember. The only obstacle at this point seems to be the 27mm crank pulley.
Steif1