I just changed the oil for the second time (after 3000 miles) after having bought my 300E with 188K miles in Sept. '03. In between, I replaced 4 quarts - clearly it's losing oil big time. I see no ugly exhaust or oil spots under the car, so I wonder where it's going, not that it matters much. 4 quarts in 3K miles is too much.

I think I'm looking at rebuilding the engine and wonder what a ballpark estimate may be for repairs? Other suggestions?

Thanks!

Sean

A quart every 750, especially for the mileage is not bad. The early 103s had deficient valve guide seals, which were upgraded in production in late '88. Do you know if your valve guide seals have ever been replaced?

You should have a leak down or compression test done. If the numbers are okay and you don't want to spend a couple of bucks a month for oil you can have the valve guide seals renewed for about $300, which might reducea oil consumption by half, but there's no guarantee. Is it worth it? Your choice.

Also look at the following nearby thread:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=83721

Duke

Hello,
I do not claim to be an expert here, but from what I have read 750 miles to a quart of oil is not all that bad, yes I agree that that's to much oil!, but apparently MB says 500 to the quart is acceptable, (maybe if your an Arab).My 91CE with 140,000 can choke down a quart in 1000 miles if I drive the "hell" out of it. It runs great, so I just add oil. Probably your valve guides are worn.
As far as what a rebuild would cost, I have no clue (if you have to ask, you can't afford it) any guess's out there, it would be nice to know what our options are, as we all will be there some day if we keep our W 124'S. My guess would be $ 8000 for a complete rebuild, what's your's
Scotty

Mine was using two quarts per 600 miles didn't smoke. Only minor leaks. I took the head off and had all new valve guides and seals installed. Now it uses about a half quart in 3000 miles.

Valve guide seals if it actually burns, but check the oil filler cap seal and the valve cover gasket for leakage. Also the front cam cover -- it leaks on these cars, not usually enough to drip much, but enough to loose oil. Oily front of the engine, with a trail down the side under the exhaust manifold is the front cover.

One thing I've discovered is that a leaking oil filler cap can cause oil consumption of upwards of a quart in 1000 miles, visible only as slighly "wet" valve cover and some minor oil on the driver's side of the valve cover gasket. Only leaks at high rpm (oil thrown off the cam), so it won't drip much. Oil consumption goes WAY down when replaced - I was putting a quart in the TE every couple months till I replaced the cap this July -- haven't added any since (unknown milage, it's my Mom's car).

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Wow. What a great resource and people you all are. Thanks for your responses.

The oil changer guys pointed out the "wetness" on the passenger's side of the block, and I noticed this myself though I figured it was just the age of the car. The one thing that I know was done to it recently (though exactly when I don't know) was that the timing belt was replaced - sadly the guy that I bought it from was the 3rd owner and he had no records for the work he had done.

I hope to spend some time this weekend poking around under the hood, and I'll replace the filler cap/gasket then. Maybe that'll help, or not. In any case, seeing some of these responses, it appears that my oil consumption isn't excessive after all (well, for this type of vehicle in any case), and it's really not an inconvenience to put a quart in every 750 miles or so. I'll need to educate my son, who is currently the primary driver.

I think that I'll also go have a compression test done just to check things out.

Much thanks to all!

Sean

There is no timeing belt on that car. It has a chain.

I used to be in your shoes with the oil usage. I never had a car that used so much oil, but the manufacturer says is normal, so normal it is (for the mileage and age of the engine).
I have posted this before, and will repeat it here:
I started using Valvoline Max Life or Castrol High Mileage (both 20W-50) @ every oil change. And the consumption has decreased from 1Q every 750 Miles to 1 to 2 quarts per oil change (3K miles) depending on how "spirited" the drive is. It took 2 or 3 oil changes before I could realize the reduced usage. (I am not affiliated with Castrol nor Valvoline, not even stock options)
The car recently passed the NYC emission inspections test (with honors), if it is burning oil, it is burning it very clean
I do have an oily "sweat" on the right-front side of the engine, but it never appears to get worse (or better).

__________________
1999 Porsche 996 Carrera Convertible
1994 420E - SOLD
1986 300E - SOLD, what a car
609 Certified

Just to second the last post. My 560SL was new to me a year ago; at the first oil change, the shop used 10W30, which resulted in smoke taking off from rest and consumption around a quart per 500 or less. Switched to 20W50 high-mileage-engine formula Valvoline, with no more smoke and consumption less than a quart per 1000--more like 1500 as I recall.

I made the switch after noticing the manual calls for oil on the order of what I used--15W40 at least--for temps typical of summer here in Michigan. RTFM still works....

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Craig Bethune

'97 SL500, 40th anniversary edition

'04 Olds Bravada (SWMBO's)
'06 Lexus ES330
'89 560SL (sold)


SL--Anything else is just a Mercedes.
(Kudos to whoever said it first)

4 quarts in 3,000 is 1 quart every 750. Breaks down to about an ounce every 30 minutes at 50 miles per hour. Closer to 40 minutes per ounce at 40 mph. May not be enough to notice the part that is burning. Someone else mentioned in another thread today that there will be some consumption in every engine because of the lubing of rings. i think that if i were to put oil in a baggie, it would be a mighty small hole that leaks an ounce every 30 minutes or 40 minutes, so you aren't looking for a huge leak.

That being said, i was using (burning, visible smoke on take-off) a quart every 200 miles. The oil cap seal helped a little, but valve guide seals really did the trick. 1100 miles since last oil change, not a noticable change in the level yet. Not a bad DIY job if you have access to the proper valve spring compressor. Wish i had done it much sooner. (it is a bad, bad job if it is done in conjuction with broken chain rails, bent exhaust valves, timing cover off, etc. Especially for a novice. Don't ask)

I do have 2 or 3 oil cap seals in the garage for a 560, but i bet it fis most of the MB's made from 81 to 91. Think they could mail for 37 cents. Need one?

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Earl McLain
'02 C230 Kompressor
'89 560 SEL "Frau BlueCar" (retired April 2004)

Sean,

My understanding is early models may need valve guides and not only seals. These M103 engines can leak lots and never get a drip on the floor.

Really- have ladies not wanting to fix the oil leak, but please keep the oil off the tail light lenses. Almost that bad.

At 188k, an untouched M103 needs a valve job probably. Lower ends are quite strong and should not need to be rebuilt. Note that you should only use a Mercedes purchased head gasket. There has been many revisions and the dealer will R&R it if it leaks-regardless of whom installed the gasket!!!

Also, note- mercedes don't take to re-ringing like a chevy. If you pull the engine plan on finding someone familar with MB's to bore the block and install oversized pistons.



Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

Is that really true??

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

Dam straight!

If you install it in your garage and it fails in 1 year, take it to any mercedes dealership and show them the headgasket receipt.

They will install the next one. I think A/C components it's a 2 year deal-but you have to replace certain items with a compressor.

Oh, yes mercedes 6 cylinders have been plagued by headgasket problems. There's been a big headgasket thread on mercedes digest with Stu Ritter and George kicking in(60+years) pro experience.



Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

Well, that IS admirable.

Especially for a company that won't stand behind its plastic radiators which are almost certain to have the neck break off, stranding the car's occupants at best; destroying the engine at worst - or the countless A/C evaporators that have sprung leaks, costing the good customer thousands and sending the R12 into the atmosphere.

Come to think of it, they won't even admit to those problems.

I wonder... if it's illegal for someone working on a car to vent the R12 into the atmosphere, how come its legal for a manufacturer to vent R12 from thousands of cars via KNOWN defects?

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

The cost effective solution to your oil useage is to increase the weight of your oil as two former posts state.

Also replace cap gasget is required.

Use a sybthetic 20/50 weight... I use mobile but others are just as good.

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Earl



1993 190E 2.3
2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra