I guess I'll have to get a new EHA valve. Ouch, those aren't cheap. I guess I can cancel my manual order and hopefully finally get one from whoever I get my valve from.
Fixing the linkage switch helped some, it now idles at 700-900, normally around 800 in park or neutral.
However, I still don't know why I don't have current to the idle control valve.


Dave
'91 300TE 4Matic
'83 300D

Correction, I do have current to the idle control valve. I was using a bad voltmeter before. I'm sure that cleaning/adjusting the linkage switch was part of the solution. I also swapped the OVP relay to the newer one I had. I'm not sure if this was a factor or not.
I missed the current at the idle control valve because I used these problems as an excuse to buy what I though was a better multimeter from Harborfreight. I bought the best one they had (still only $40). However, the first one wouldn't measure current at all. I then exchanged it for a slightly different model. It worked coming home on the trip back from the store (I hooked it up in the parking lot), but now it's stopped measuring current also. I switched back to my cheapy (about a $10 model from Harborfreight), and now I'm reading 690 ma. at the idle control valve.
Thanks for everyone's help. Hopefully after installing the new EHA I'll be running fine. I'm still not sure if my 4matic is working, so I guess I'll wait for our next snow to try it out.

Dave
'91 300TE
'83 300D