Will someone please look at this parts list from Fastlane andmake sure it's all there - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

WANT '71 280SEL · #1 02-22-2004, 08:56 AM

Timing Chain Tensioner A5110-15408 $64.13 $0.00 $64.13
Timing Guide Rail A5040-15411 $25.87 $0.00 $25.87
Timing Guide Rail A5040-15416 $3.00 $0.00 $9.00
Timing Chain A5100-11943 $78.17 $0.00 $78.17
Valve Cover Gasket A8030-25375 $6.39 $0.00 $6.39
Valve Cover Gasket A8030-25376 $6.39 $0.00 $6.39
Timing Rail Pivot Pin A5041-73179 $6.98 $0.00 $6.98
Valve Cover Seal Washer A8033-83101 $0.27 $0.00 $2.16
V-Belt W1002-33142 $4.70 $0.00 $4.70
V-Belt W1002-33200 $5.61 $0.00 $5.61
V-Belt W1002-33075 $4.10 $0.00 $4.10
V-Belt W1002-33106 $3.64 $0.00 $3.64
Spark Plug F1000-37568 $1.51 $0.00 $1.51
Timing Rail Lining A5049-110366 $3.16 $0.00 $3.16

I know it says only 1 spark plug, but i can't get it to update those. I can update the numbers on everything else, but when I have 8 and then push update, it just flashes back to 1. Anyways, I will be doing all new belts and spark plugs obviously when I do the rails and chain or approximately at the asme time.

I am mainly interested about the "timing rail lining" and the "timing rail pivot pin". Do I want to but multiple "timing rail pivot pins?" I didn't know if it was just the one that the pivot rail pivots on, or if they are the pins that hold all the rails to the head? I may be confusing you, but I just want to have every part there when I do this becasue it's being done in one day. How long do you think it will take to do?

I will be doing it with my uncle who's been working on cars for like 40 years, but of course he's one of those older fashion guys who could tear a big-block down and rebuild it with his eyes closed. We should have most of the tools but I don't know if he would have thin-walled sockets? that would work in places like the p/s pump mounting bracket. Are there any other tools I need other than just regular box-end/combination wrenches and socket wrenches? They will of course be metric and I think I've figured out how to make/use the pin-puller. So are there any awkward sockets I need or extreme sizes over 27mm?
Thanks
David

WANT '71 280SEL · #2 02-22-2004, 09:00 AM

Just wanted to say thank you for all who have helped me so far keep my family's MB's on the road. You have all been most helpful and have given me the courage to extend ownership to even more. The car I will be doing the rails on is the 420SEL. I don't know if it's ever been done and it has 173k miles!

my mom loves the 420 becasue it's so BIG. She always said how cars these days are so small. She think my dad's 300E is WAY too small. So we got her the 420, she loves it. Too bad she can't drive it for another 3-4 weeks since she had her foot operated on! She doesn't even think the 420 is THAT big. She just thinks it's, "a nice size". Sorry for rambling.
Thanks
David

P.S.
Where I live you have to parallel-park, we'll see how good she really is!

MikeTangas · #3 02-22-2004, 09:49 AM

There should be three upper rails - 2 in the left head and 1 in the right. IIRC there are 2 pins for each rail.

WANT '71 280SEL · #4 02-22-2004, 09:52 AM

There should be 3 identical rails, but isn't there a pivot rail? When you did yours, did you replace the pins?
Thanks
David

WANT '71 280SEL · #5 02-22-2004, 09:53 AM

What about the timing rail lining? Fastlane says to buy one when looking at the chain.
Thanks Again
David

MikeTangas · #6 02-22-2004, 10:02 AM

I reused my pins because I didn't mess them up. I don't know about the 4.2 but on the 5.6 two of the three rails are the same. I didn't replace the tensioning rail (which is what you are refering to as a pivoting rail I think) as mine was OK at 166K. Next time around will be an "all rail" job.

I'm not sure what you mean by tiiming rail lining, unless you are talking about the tensioning rail lining.

stevebfl · #7 02-22-2004, 10:16 AM

There are six rails in all. Only three are really important and they are represented by item #83 (only one of the three is shown in the picture). They only show one of the three whose real numbers are 116 052 17 16. The timing rail lining is item #47 and would come installed on the complete rail #44. Only the rails #'s 71 and 44 actually touch the chain when its tentioned properly.

The pins are #104 and there are six of them. I have probably replaced 10 of them over 30 years, all due to damage received on removal, they can be tough at times. Normally there is no need to replace them.

WANT '71 280SEL · #8 02-22-2004, 10:20 AM

So should I just buy 3 item #3's as for the rails? I just bought a subscription to pindelski and he does this job an a 560 and I he replaces the pivot rail. So I don't need to replace the pivot rail?

What about the tools? Does anything need to be special other than the puller?
Thanks
David

WANT '71 280SEL · #9 02-22-2004, 10:22 AM

Do I need a timing chain tensioner gasket? One is shown in the picture but I don't know if it would come with the the tensioner?

Won't the new tensioner already have the olt torqued to the correct specs? So all I will have to do with it is just tighten down the connecting bolts that hold it to the block/head wherever exactly it is attached?
Thanks
David

WANT '71 280SEL · #10 02-22-2004, 10:29 AM

Do I need to buy a connecting link for the chain or won't it come with the link to hold it together. Sorry for my lack of technical terms, I'm still trying to learn them all.
Thanks
David

stevebfl · #11 02-22-2004, 10:40 AM

You will avoid a bunch of the hardest work if you skip the tentioning rail (I presume this is what would be called the pivot rail as it does pivot about item #50.

All of the problems with MB chains in the first 300k have to do with the three rails breaking. Somewhere over 300k the lower rail #71 will wear through and cause problems. That one might as well be waited on as it requires the whole front of the motor to be removed which might as well happen with the head off fixing the bent valves.

The only special tool I can think of would be the chain link riveting tool and the chain loader tool.

stevebfl · #12 02-22-2004, 10:43 AM

The only picture of the loader that I found easily was part of a group of loader tools and is pretty grainy when blown up but still gives a general view.

The loader tool just makes it easier. A few extra hands can substitute.

WANT '71 280SEL · #13 02-22-2004, 11:39 AM

Can't I just use a dremel tool and grind off part of an old link and use the new chain's connecting link to hold the new to the old chain? Then just use two sets of vice grips and slowly rotate the motor while moving the vice-grips further back as someone else rotates it?

What about item #47? I don't need that lining that fastlane says I do? Is 47 one of the lower rails that I should just leave alone?

Thanks
David

WANT '71 280SEL · #14 02-22-2004, 12:04 PM

So, is the pin that the tensioner pivots on the same as the other guide rail pins?
Thanks Again
David

stevebfl · #15 02-22-2004, 12:07 PM

The tool is to rivet together the new style link. The new link will probably come with the chain. We use an old clip type master link to install the chain.

The lower rail #44 is a bunch more work to remove and the rail should be out of the motor for a first timer to install the shoe (lining). It is no big thing but it needs to be viewed completely to know how the shoe is held on.