560SEL brake sensor
 

i have a 1987 560SEL with 200,380 miles. this morning my brake sensor started flickering. there is no pulsating, so i believe the rotors are fine.
how hard is it, and would i need any special tools to change the brake pads? what brand of brake fluid? i would buy the pads from an MB dealer.
OR would a midas or a meineke do a competent job. i have yet to take my car to a chain type shop. i have done all the preventive maintenace myself ie, oil changes, coolant flush, tune-ups. but i have never changed brake pads... on any car i have owned.
any help or comments would be appreciated.

Front brakes are a piece of cake.

I had to redo a chain store brake job on mine just after purchase, they used cheap pads and incorrect grease seals. Replace the pads and the rotors, I would go with OE or Brembo on the rotors, OE on the pads. Replace all four wear sensors and get new seals. You may need a hefty impact to separate the hubs from the rotors, maybe even a bit of heat as some techs use blue Loctite on the threads. Be careful not to nick up the ABS sensor components when driving in the new seals and clean everything real good with brake wash.

Hi ferstertech,

I have a '87 420, and I believe the brakes are the same as yours.
Based on the MB-CD (Section 4251 in CD) , the rotors have an original thickness of 28 mm and a limit at service of 26 mm. The wear limit for proper operation is 25.4 mm.
A lip at the edge develops with use and the thickness of the lip kind of tells you how used the rotors are. They wear more in the middle, so if you have a 2 mm lip, its time to measure.
If the rotor is still above 26 mm, you simply replace the brake pads and the sensors.
Do a search or look at the D.I.Y block on top of this page. There is also a lot of opinions about which pads to choose. I used PBR deluxe, as they don't create as much dust. Braking is fine with them, too. You can get them from this site, together with the sensors and anti-squeal paste. I used Valvoline Synpower brake fluid, which was also recommended here before.
If you feel comfortable with wrenching, it is an easy job. However, you can always run into the unexpected, i.e. a sticky dust seal at the caliper that will tear when you pull the pad off or bad looking rubber hoses. With a 17 year old car, surprises happen...
This is how it will look when you take off the wheel...
Good luck
Reinhard Kreutzer

Until you have to change rotors, front brake pad swap is SOOO easy on W126. You don't even have to pull the damn caliper. I recommend getting one of those caliper spreader tools though, Once the old pads are out, it makes getting the pistons back in a cinch.

Brick ??
 

I used to live not to far away from you, when my 126 needed new fron pads, I bought the pads off the net. ( hadn't found out about this site yet.) The textar brand are good.

Meineke in Neptune has a young man by the name Aldrey, he knows MB's and the owner of the shop recommended me to get my own parts and he would install. I believe I paid 50-60 labour I was done in less than 30mins, sensors and everything.

thank you all for your help and encouragement. i am going to try it this week. i'll re-post with the results.

560SEL brake sensor
 

Where have you been able to purchase a caliper spreading tool for the 126 brakes? The one I've seen pictured in the manual has two paddles that move away from each other as you rotate the screw device. Any ideas?

personally
 

i have never used anything to spread the calipers other than two flat screwdrivers. a small one to start and a mig mutha to finish off. also i have never replaced the boots. have done this literally at least prob forty or fifety times.

tom w

also
 

you can leave off the wear sensors with no ill effect except to not have the wear system function. i dont recommend this but have done it on occasion when the pads i got didnt have the place for them.

tom w

Hi pinesprings,
You can get a tool at Advance Auto or Pep Boys, that spreads the pads,
but I open the bleeder valve with some tubing attached to it leading into a bottle. That way, you press the dirty fluid right out and there is not much resistance. And I bleed the brakes afterwards anyway.
The tool I bought there didn't do much for me and I used a big screwdriver too.