How to open up OVP relay?
 

I have read about 350 posts about the OVP relay and how some DIY'ers open it up and re-solder the contact points.
Mine is the 'old style' OVP relay (1 fuse on top) in a '86 300E.

When i pry the aluminium casing out at the base of the relay, i expected the casing to come off. -It doesn't.

How do i take this relay apart? -Preferrably without destroying it.

Freestyler

Same result when I tried. I could bend the side of the can, but it didn't want to let go. I gave up and bought a new one. THAT one started acting screwy in a short while, but it came apart easily for me to access the fractured solder joints. It has been working fine now for > 1 yr.

I then went back and pulled harder on the old one's case - this time it came off. A little glue of some sort was the only restraint. I fixed it too, and it is now waiting in the wings.

Steve

What is the deal with Bosch/Mercedes solder joints?

I would not have thought solder joints were a wear item but they seem to go bad in all kinds of electronics in these cars!

Volvos also. I had an 89 780 coupe for 4 years and spent time on brickboard.com. Many threads concerning re-soldering relays.
Mark

It took me a while to pry the casing off, and the case didn't look to good after I got it off. No bad solder joints in mine. I just glued the case back on still works fine. I bought a new one trying to solve a flashing SRS light problem (no change). So the old one is on the shelf as a spare.

Jay

1 fuse version
 

I also have the old style I guess 1 fuse version in my car. Can anyone tell me how to test it with a volt meter to see if it is working right? I really don't want to buy one or open it unless I am confident that it is not working properly.

Thanks!

-=>Raja.

Thanks guys. I will give it another try when i get home after work.

Btw. How is the fuse on top connected to the relay. Do i break the connection when i yank out the relay from the casing?

Freestyler

Unplug the fuse first. The fuse socket is not attached to the case.

Steve