W126 Front End Work
 

I finally got the front end up in the air, supported by jack stands, and disassembled some of the components. The brakes and baking plate are off, the tie rod disconnected and the upper ball joint as well.

Then I used my Sears two jaw puller on the lower ball joint and then gave the lower control arm a good wack with a hammer. The joint did not pop, so I loaded it up some more. A few more good wacks. Still no go. My pickle fork is too narrow, so I'll stop by some place or other and get larger versions of both.

That's a big ball joint. After that, the brake bearing bracket bushings. (subframe)

I need to take some pics for you all.

Any thoughts.

I still haven't been able to get the joint free. I'll go to get a bigger puller in the morning. I also tried a pickle fork but that didn't work either. I think I'll put the joint under tension and freeze it. I don't have a torch.

wbain.. please make pictures :D

They are in the works. I'm working on one side right now and I'll get the procedures down and then take pics.

I got the joint seperated. I bought a larger two jaw puller and it popped the joint. Oh happy days.

Now I'm wrestling with the ball joint extraction process.

Here is a pic with most of the bits off. The ball joint was a PITA to get off but I did with a larger puller. You can see where I wacked it.

How'd That get In There?
 

I had some trouble getting the ball joint out of the spindle. I decided to try cooling it off a bit.

You could probably take the spindle to NAPA and I'll bet they're machine shop could get it out and a new one in. To get the new one in, the boot has to come off the b/joint. I took my spindles to my independent and had them get the old ones out and put the new ones in. They charged me $120 which I thought was WAY high, but it's fixed now. It was a w116 chasis, but it is similar to yours in that you can't use the "normal" b/joint press from Autozone, etc.
Thanks
David

Warren,
I got my lower ball joints out of the LCA using a 3lb sledge and a little heat. The left side took three whacks and it popped out of the arm, didn't have to heat. The right side took a bunch of whacks, then some heat and it popped out on the third whack. Caution in the whacking department...it's fairly tight quarters for a good swing AND when the joint comes free, if you forget to leave the nut on, the spindle goes flying.

PS: did you get the cc:mail I sent a couple weeks back? Asking because I know the ERO routers went down about the same time.

HI Mike, yes I did and I replied. I'll resend tonight when I get in.

The spindle is cooling it right now. ;)

I replaced the upper ctl. arms and the bushings. The factory decided to put the bolt in from the back side, the area woth no room and lots of little pipes. I'm going to get my daughter who had thin arms to help me with the nut and bolt.

Lots of other things to do, like clean out my dryer vents. They are about 1/3 to 1/2 full of lint. It's a fire hazard like that!

What a mess. I pressed out the ball joint carrier and lots of rust came out. Here is what the carrier looks like.

Here is a demo pic of the bushing being pushed out. I also cleaned up the bracket with a brush in my electric drill.

Here is a pic of the pullers I used on the spindle. The smaller one was OK for the upper ball joint but not the lower. The larger one worked great on the lower ball joint. I positioned it on the lower ball joint, tightened it and the joint separated while I was reaching around to get my hammer. (Yes, I left the nut in place).

(fixed a spelling error)

Completed, drivers side anyway.

Warren,
Just got back from California, I notice you cleaned the guide rod seat in the bearing bracket. Hopefully you didn't use too much elbow grease. While I was doing mine, Steve Brotherton mentioned a little tale of a guide rod monut he'd replaced many moons ago, and cleaned all the rust out of the seat. The result was the car still made the same clunk, not due to a bad mount but rather the mount slopping in the bracket.

Looks like the project is coming along nicely.

Excuse my ignorance, but I have to ask since I am getting ready to do a complete suspension overhaul here in about 3 weeks. What exactly are the pullers used for?? If the ball joint is pressed into the spindle..... :confused:

Also, without a press, will it be half impossible to get the bushings out of the bearing bracket?

I'm trying to get an idea of how many special gizmos I will need before I start this (ie puller, press, etc) or if I will be able to "get by" w/o any.

MBJTC, no ignorance at all.

The pullers are used to get the ball joints out of the upper and lower control arms. I'll have to take some pics for you and I'll post them.

The press is used to get the large rubber bushings into the bearing bracket. They were, in my case, fairly easy to remove. The 12 ton press is only $100 at Harbor Freight, on sale.

I took the spindle to an Indie, literaly they are all Indians, MB repair shop for the ball joint. I'll take the other side off tonight and take it in tomorrow.

Mike:

Thanks, but it's taking so long! I was messing with the ball joint and it was taking too long. I had a shop do it for me.

I'll post more pics.

I may just have to use Mike's whacking method as I don't have or want to get these pullers just for on use. :cool:

With a three pound sldge and an old king pin the old guide mounts come out of the bearing bracket cleanly. It only takes a few solid whacks. Just be sure not to hit your hand while steadying the king pin.

An old king pins makes an excellent large utility punch. Anyone with an old straight axle truck probably has a couple laying around. I also have a large brass drift that I use when there is worry of marring or sparking.

See pic 1. I wacked it OK and it still wouldn't pop off. The bolt seat is distorted so I'll have to fix that.

Hi,

Looking at your photos (I always love to see these photos - Just like Kodak says ), I gotta bring this thread back to the top here with a couple of questions .
After disscussing the removal of the Ball Joints,you posted photos of the Bearing Bracket on the ground, off the car.
As I am about to go down that road I am really curious about that stage off your front end rebuild .
From the first photo it does not seem as if you supported the lower control arm or spring before removing the bearing bracket.
Was there no need to do that ? Or are these photos just missing from the post ? Did you also replace the lower control arm bushings at the same time ? would you tell us more about that.

Thanks IA

It Was Completley 'Forked'
 

Here is a pic of the passenger side bearing bracket and ball joint. As you can see, rust took it's toll. The rubber boot had a hole that let water in. It also didn't drain properly causing ruste. I used a small scratch awl and a hammer to get the rust flakes out. Tap tap here, tap tap there and it was mush cleaner. Then I used my electric drill to get most of the remaining residue out. Getting the new ball joint in was more difficult than the other side. I sprayed lube on the inside.

Yes, I did not support the lower control arm with a stand. When the car is on the lift at the garage, the suspension is held in place by the shock. There is a U shaped bracket under the upper control arm though.

If you replace the upper control arm, the bolt will be a PITA to get out and back in. I put it back in from front to rear. Another person will help for this. The roll bar bushings will also cause an alignment problem for the bolt. I reused my old ones. The drivers side is blocked by the brake lines and master cylinder.

I am not going to replace the lower control arm bushing, yet. The spring must be removed and it's an expensive job at the dealer. I can see why they charge so much. It's a tough job.

If you are going to replace the spindle ball joint, you need to pop the upper joint first to allow more room for the lower joint. Use the larger puller and you will have no problems. Find a service center to replace the ball joint for you. I speak from experience when I report the loaner tools or Harbor Freight tool will not work.

I'll take some more pics in the morning if you all want me to.

I was asking because what is still needing replacement on my car are the Bearing Bracket Bushings and the Lower Control arm Bushings. Everything else is pretty much done.
I have read here on the forum how other members have done these tasks, but have not yet seen good detailed photos of these procedures.
thanks again

The spring needs to be compressed using the official MB spring compressor.

The 'subframe' bushings are fairly easy. They can be knocked out with a plastic hammer. I used brake cleaner to clean the holes and lots of silicone spray to put the new ones in. I used a shop press but a threaded rod and some large washers will also work.

About using an "official" MB spring compressor.....I'm sure using one if you have access to one is the best idea. However, I would not have any idea where to find one of these things. You can rent one from Performance Products, but as collateral they charge you the entire $600 and then credit you that back minus rental charges ($85) upon return. So I would prefer not to have my credit card loaded up like that for the time period that I need this compressor. And if I can save 85 bucks...that's 85 bucks (plus shipping).

So, here is what my friend who is a mechanic at his dad's shop suggested. Now, I do realize that he and his dad are of the "old school" mindset, but sometimes what works...works regardless of how barbaric it may seem. Well anyway, they say to put a floor jack (or transmission jack if it's up on a lift) underneath the lower control arm and then take off the steering knuckle, shock, etc and then slowly lower the jack and the spring will eventually be fully extended and then just "fall out". His dad did say it was a PITA getting the new spring in, but very possible, I'm sure he's done it a few times over his 30+ years as a mechanic.

Now I know I'm gonna get it from all sides now by suggesting this rather crude method, but I thought it was worth mentioning! :p

I remember reading about this method before.
if I remember correctly BIGRED wrote it up here.You might try the search ...
There was a difference of opinion between him and DMORRISON about spring removal techniques and safety.

It's all back together again.

Today I had the passenger side ball joint replaced at a local Indian indie shop. They did a fine job. I got back home and removed the passenger side upper control arm so I could replace it. I had to remove the battery and move the ww fluid container. I found a lot of lleaves and other decayed matter under the tray. What a mess. Once I finished the upper contol arm and lowered the car and tightened the upper control arms, I vavummed out as much as I could. The sun and the car were in the right position so all the moisture could evaporate. I then vacuumed the mess out. I'll post a pic of car tomorrow. Next, state inspection.

Success on the state inspection. I told the inspector what I had done, he is familiar with my cars and the work I have done, in sprucing up the car. The leaf pic is on the way.

Warren.. did you have any problems with the upper ball joint nut not coming off? Mine is spinning, but still on after 10 minutes screwing it off.

Sounds like the nut was never torqued properly. Use slip joint pliars to hold the joint in the spindle and loosen the nut. You have to use a long puller to loosen the lower nut.

2 weeks ago I rebuilt my entire w126 front end, plus H&Rs. I also put new sway bar links on the back and changed diff fluid, I had already put new subgrame bushings and diff mount on last year. I dropped the entire rear end/subframe, so I pressure washed it, took a wire wheel to it and painted it and everything on the front with chassis paint. Looks awesome. And the H&Rs are perfect, I think these should be on the "must have" list along with things like euro lights. The car doesn't look "slammed", but rather how it should have to begin with. And unless you're way past your mid-life crisis, you won't mind the ride....you gotta give to get, and this is def. a worthwhile tradeoff on looks and handling.

As far as the actual front rebuild....lemme tell ya....a lift, impact wrenches, air hammers and a 60,000 lb shop press are real life savers. I had no problem getting any nuts off, but I am sure that the impact wrench had a lot to do with that. I replaced absolutely everything including the LCA bushings. I had to work for about 15 minutes with an air hammer/chisel to get those out. I did not replace the entire UCAs, b/c the boots were not split, only cracked, so I saved a ton of money by just replacing the bushings and putting new boots (dealer item) and grease on the upper ball joints....they were still very tight. So if your boots are not split, there is no sense in replacing the whole UCA. One tip, don't forget about the idler arm bushing, mine was absolutely shot.