Belt tensioner

I took my car to a local guy just to have him tighten down my squeaky belt. He told me the belt tensioning pulley system on my car no longer works because the small shock was dead. He said the dealer could do it for me, so I called them. They told me that when the shock dies, it usually breaks the tensioning unit at the same time, and I would also need to have that replaced in addition to the small shock. I see that the rod with the long bolt on top that goes down into the tensioner is unhooked from whatever it connects to inside. It doesn't look like it snapped or anything though. It just looks disconnected. I am wondering if whether the dealer is making me buy something I don't even need (i.e. new belt tensioner) by saying the tensioner breaks when the shock dies, or if it is possible to just insert the tensioning rod back into place and save the couple hundred dollars it costs for the new tensioner?

[jeffsr]

Well Tom, how did he figure out the damper (small shock is dead)?? The damper (shock) does NOT provide any tension for the belt. It's just a damper for belt oscillations and vibrations. If the adjusting bolt has come loose (it's on a collar at the rear of the tensioner), you will have to remove the tensioner and collar to see if the rivet has come loose or the collar is actually broken. Either way the adjuster and the collar can be bought separately (about $25.00) at the dealer. Make sure of this before you buy a new tensioner..

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Jeff Lawrence
1987 300e
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE

[dakota]

After having just gone thru a similar situation on my '90 300E, my guess is that your tensioner is shot and you will need to replace it and the adjuster rod (threads are probably stripped). The tensioner is about $180 from Performance Products. The rod is $14 and you might as well change the shock ($28) at the same time.
If you want to do this job yourself, it requires a special tool (holding tool-$9) and the removal of the radiator. Not too bad of a DIYer weekend job.


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Steve
1979 240D
1990 300E

[jeffsr]

Steve, are you saying that someone told you to remove the radiator to get the belt tensioner out?? Wow!!, I guess you're right about a weekend job. Fan and shroud should come off. Power Steering bracket too, but not the radiator. Hope you didn't pay for the labor on that one!!

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Jeff Lawrence
1987 300e
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE

[dakota]

I guess I was told that it needed to be removed. I did the work myself, so no big labor cost. But it sure seemd to me at the time that to get at the tensioner bracket (and the pulleys etc) that the radiator was in the way. Maybe I went to extra work. How come you weren't there to help me? :-)
Regards,
Steve

[jeffsr]

Sorry Steve, I guess I was out barking at the moon or something. Hey, look at it this way...What you did was not a mistake, it was a lack of info. If I told you the number of things I have done wrong because of that specific reason, you would have a mass quantity of chuckles . I learn something new every day on this board, and, my friend, you can take that to the bank.

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Jeff Lawrence
1987 300e
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE

[dakota]

No apology required. Glad you pointed out the error of my ways so that someone else doesn't have to repeat it (and maybe me if I ever have to do it again). I'm constantly amazed at the breadth of knowledge in this forum and am most grateful for every morsel! Thx again!

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Steve
1979 240D
1990 300E

[edmar90300e]

Steve - I was looking on this thread and I read that you replaced the radiator for your 300E. I have a 1990 300E with the upper neck broke ( just happened it has about 145K on it). Is it a DIY, can you give some highlights on what to look for. I have done couple of RR on the car sometimes I thingk that I might have cause problems than I should. I have replaced Front and Back brakes myself, changed oil, bearing bracket for the fan and fan clutch. Also anything to watch for when replacing the coolant for the car? Will I need any special tool?
Thanks
Edgar

[GregS]

I've done this job twice now on my '90 300CE and I can tell you that you do not have to remove the radiator. You do have to remove the fan, but you can avoid messing with the "special" tool by just removing the plastic fan blades from the fan clutch. You will need some hex sockets for the job (5 and 10mm I think), and long wrenches, especially a gear wrench set, help a lot. Give yourself some time to do this the first time around. It will take some time to figure out where all the bolts are, and how to remove everything.

GregS
'84 300D, 183k
'90 300CE, 173k

[GregS]

Oh, also, the tensioner shock has nothing to do with damaging the tensioner. Like another post said, it only dampens vibrations, but it couldn't possibly be the case for tensioner failer. The tensioner fails on its own with age and heat.

GregS

[Mike Murrell]

Many times, the following part will cure tired tensioning systems.

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/smittys/sa/wizard.jsp?partner=smittys&clientid=sasponline.com&baseurl=http://www.sasponline.com/&cookieid=17R0ZW5V7&year=1991&make=MB&model=300-SEL-006&category=G&part=Acc.+Belt+Tension+Adj.