Getting it to run after oil line failure
 

I searched but did not see this question come up.

so here goes...

Any advice on the following would be appreciated....

1983 300D Turbo, 185K miles.
Well maintained up to this point.
It was on the interstate, and the oil line broke.
Engine did the automatic shutdown. (That is a feature of the engine, right?)
Car towed to a home.
Sits for a month
Oil lines finally replaced and the engine filled with new oil.
Car started up fine. It ran for a few minutes, then it shut down. It did this on its own, ie. It was not turned off. Try to re-start it, and it will not start.

Car sits for 2 more months.

Now we are trying to get it started.

When you crank it, it sounds (ever so slightly) like just maybe it wants to start, but it does not start.

Fuel gage says it has fuel.

Oil pressure gage looks normal too.

Radiator water looks OK, no oil in it.

Oil dipstick looks good too. (Might be overfilled though).

What should I do next?

I think I need to check for air in the fuel line. Does that seem like the next logical thing to check?

Has anyone else had an oil line break, followed by an engine shutdown? If so, was there other damage done?

I don't want to alarm you. But I don't think there is any engine that has an automatic shutdown feature when your oil pressure drops to 0. That would be a nice feature to have, until of course your oil sender failed and caused you to get stranded for no reason.

That is good informaiton.

Can you tell I'm new to the MB diesel?

Looking at the sequence of events this car has experienced, any suggestions on what do to next?

I plan to check that fuel is getting to the injectors, and there is no air in the fuel filter.

If that does not work, I will check that the glow plugs are working.

If it still does not get it started, what would be the next best thing to check? (
Compression?)

Would a little squirt of starter fluid be a good diagnosing tool?

My first guess is the fuel system is full of algae .... have your been using some sort of an anti-algae additive to the fuel?

You may need to get the crud out for it to run normally.

Keep us posted,

Haasman

I'm not sure if they used any anti-algea in the fuel or not.

I will ask, but I don't think they did.

Tomorrow I will be checking to see if there is fuel at the injectors. I will post my results.

I sure hope the engine is not toasted.

Fuel Filter
 

The filter may be blocked, actually I think you may have 2 filters. If they are blocked, you won't be starting.

Did you fill-up with fuel just before it stopped on the highway? If so, you may have bought a load of bad fuel.

Did you lose all your oil before it shut down?

William Rogers........

I'm not sure if all the oil was lost or not. I will check on this later today... I will be working on the car then.

A little more information about this car..

I'm in the process of purchasing this car, and I wanted to do some basic troubleshooting myself before I had it towed to a mechanic. I'm really hoping I can get it running and avoid the need to have it towed.

I did not get it started, but here is what I was able to do today.

I was able to check the larger fuel filter and it did not seem to have any air in it. I opened it slightly and primed it a few times and fuel came out freely.

The smaller filter gushed with fuel as I removed the end going into the primer, so that seemed good?no clogged line from the tank. I quickly reconnected it.

The glow plugs seemed fine. I checked all 5 and they are all getting power, and all showed about the same resistance. But I may not have done the resistance test right since I did not remove the electrical lead to each plug before testing it. (I realized this mistake long after I had stopped working on the car. wish I had thought about that while I was still at the car. It is not at my house yet.)

When I turn the key, the glow plug light on the dash comes on for 2-5 seconds. (I'm in Florida, and it was very hot today.) I tried to force the glow plugs to really get how by turning the key so the glow plug light would come on, and when it went off, I turned the key off, and immediately switched it over so the light would go on again. I did this 5 or 6 times in a row, and then I let the engine crank. It didn't seem to make any difference.

I also cracked the lines at each injector and turned it over about 3 seconds. I did this twice. There was fuel at each line. But I really don't know if it was enough fuel or not. It looked like enough fuel, but this is the first time I've ever done it. Anyway, there was definitely fuel at each injector.

The oil pressure gage gets up between 2 and 3 as I crank the engine. It is still climbing when I stop cranking, as I don't want to sit there and crank for too long.

I'm being told that even though the oil line broke, all the oil did not spill out.

As I crank it, it reminds me of trying to start a regular gas engine with very bad timing on a hot day. It would have two or three turns at a normal speed, followed by one or two slower turns, then back to normal for 3 turns, then back to a slower turn or two. Sometimes it sounds like it just about catches, but never does.

The battery was getting low, so I know that was working against me. :(

On Monday it goes off to a mechanic.

I didn't do a search for this, but I'd like to ask anyway.... :) ....

Does any of this sound like the symptoms of a ruined turbocharger?

I'd be more worried about the rings/pistons and cylinders than the turbo at this point. I suspect you have low/poor compression due to messed up pistons/rings/cylinders.

engatwork is right. Can you check the compression?

Also, do you know when the valves were adjusted last? Key in a high compression engine.

The turbo is secondary. No exhaust .... no turbo.

Haasman

Problem found: Bad motor. :(

Connecting rod is bad/bent/etc.

Boy, you should hear the squeek/squeel it makes just as it almost starts and as the other pistons are firing.

Oh well.

Thanks for the info everyone. Read on though, I have a question or two more....

A good shop in the area says an engine replacement (used) is $2500.00. They find good used engines, tear it down check it out, valve job, put it back together with new seals, water pump, etc. Comes with a warranty. $2500.00

That is too much for me at this point.

Is $2500.00 reasonable?

If there was a way to get an engine in for about $1000.00-1500.00, I would do it. But I can't do it myself--don't have the tools or time or garage.

I may have a parts car for sale.
1984 Gold 300TD.
Body in god shape.
No rust
No rust underneath either.
Interior is real good.
Original paint. Pretty good shape, still shiney.
Does not appear to ever have been wrecked.
No cracks in dash.
ODO works.
I was told the AC works, but can't verify.
I have some records on the car.
187K
Has new oil lines !!!

What is it worth? $900.00 I hope.

If your interested, act fast. I need to do something with it by Wed of this week.

Work number 863 686 8754 X46665
Home 813 996 1000

I would call the big recycling yards- silverstar and Potmac. unless prices have changed, you could get a used one for $1500 freight. These engines are reliable, so I'm not sure it's an advantage or a dissadvantage that someone has removed the head!

I've heard of ppl buying them in a Pick your own yard for as little as $75. Others buy and engine out of a pristine wreck that is sold locally. Some find a rust bucket with a strong engine- $500 or so.

Michael