My indy just installed rebuilt steering boxes in both my '81 240D(170K) and '88 300SEL(140K), both units required adjusting from the get go, with about 1" of side to side free play still present for both cars. My understanding per MB is that 1" of free play is near the marginal end of acceptability. Both of the cars still require over correction when driving. My indy says the 240 front end components are all still in excellent condition. The 300 has a totallt rebuilt front end. I was wondering if any body else has had problems with rebuilt steering boxes not being within closer tolerances? Both boxes are from the same (reputable?) supplier mentioned before on this forum. Perhaps I am having supplier problems? Any recommendations/suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

Yes, you are describing a steering box that is too loose.

What would a tight, rebuilt steering box be worth to you? The reason I ask is that I have done exploratory surgery on one of these boxes and have learned how to tighten them up. I am considering doing these on an exchange basis if it can be profitable enough.

I thought about this a few years ago, but thought that since the cars were getting aged, folks would not be as willing to spend the money necessary for me to do a quality rebuild and still make a few dollars for myself in the transaction.

Thanks for your comments.

I have a 1991 420SEL with a leaking sterring box. The sterring appears to be tight with little noticeable play. I would be interested in a rebuild.

I don't want buy a rebuilt and experience the play noted.

Checked with the nearest MB dealer and new is out of the question and factory rebuilts are no longer available.

Any ideas on the cost of a rebuild?

Replaced the box on the 300 w/another unit. Still have same results. Have rechecked the front end components all look ok. I have input to the box but no output to the pittman arm within the approx. same range of free play. I'm checking w/other suppliers at this time. Rebuilt units are running approx. $ 350-550. Larry, if I can't get this issue resolved, I might be calling you.

Not to steal the business from Larry, but rebuilt steering pumps, racks and gear boxes are available from
http://www.mavalgear.com/

Because their web site doesn't list all, you should call for availability.

I paid $450 for a rebuilt gearbox last year for my 94 e320.

Bob

I'm sure that mavalgear is not the only source for rebuilt boxes. The problem is, as evidenced by this thread, many of these rebuilders give no special attention to "tightening up" the boxes.

There is no adjustment to do so. I have examined one of these boxes and I believe that I can tighten them up properly. My exploration has been with the 123 box which is really bad about loosening up and cannot be tightened with the adjustment.

Have a great day,

the root cause is a old design that is prone to developing excessive on-center play.

What happens is the follower gets a little play,then normal vibration starts wearing a 'low spot' in the sector gear (which is ground slightly oval so it is 'tight' on center, and has more play off center) Once the 'low spot' develops, it is impossible to remove the on-center play without the gear binding just off-center. Low cost (cheap) rebuild is really just seals and not the real wearing parts.

Prevention means keeping the follower 'properly' adjusted all the time to minimize development of the 'low-spot'. If the follower is tightened properly? , and enough turnsof the steering wheel are made, the rest of the sector gear wears at the same rate as the on-center portion- at least that's the 'technical explanation' MBZ has published.

Another sh#$%$ peice of 'German engineering' in my opinion--just like the wiring harnesses that self destruct and transmissions that fail regularly, and......

The more I drive my 1994 Q45a (active suspension) the more I appreciate the high quality of that car--and the less respect I have for MBZ. My 94 sl-600 is a peice of sh#$ by comparison. I am in the middle of a tranny rebuild @84K miles because the oil pump ate itself up--regular fluid and filter changes- Indy shops say they see it all the time with MBZ. Still fighting the flakey (get the pun) wiring insulation all over and ETA's. Another MBZ crappy part.

Larry,

Will you rebuild my 72 107's box. Shoot me an email on what you think it will cost.

Bill

Ok, how far off can I be. Rack a Pinion is my idea of crap steering. The recirculating ball type steering found on the 114-115 of the 70's, the 123's on up to the 124 bodies (on the 300-E 86 to early 90's is thought to be the strongest steering box on a passenger car today. I can't believe a re-build is needed unless a freak seal blow or you run a taxi in New York City. I've had all the above cars (114-115, 123,124) in 300 trim, all past 130K and never even had to tweak the adjustment screw. I will admit my '81 300-D 123 body had a little play out of the show room, but it never increased for 11 years. My 90 300-E is all original, started tight and still is after 14 years. The ability of recirculating ball type steering is that it displaces load/shock over a large surface area, it this case, many steel balls. Rack and P type steering only displaces the shock (in any give position) over a very small surface area in comparison.

My 1991 126 suffered leaks, and was easily repaired with a seal kit.
But a few years later the car developed instability in winds, and the tension adjustment seemed to do nothing for it.
I decided to try a rebuilt box.
What I got for my $325 appeared to be an old box for a 1982 240D. It was the "correct" part number, and would bolt in; but it had no wear compensator (my '91 does), the digression valve was wrong (don't know what effect that would have), the actual steering ratio was wrong, and the tension/drag was not adjusted at all.
It was just an older box not really built fo a 126, that apparantly had just been re-sealed and sprayed with a quick coat of paint.

Sent it back, took my box out, partially dismantled it, and did a very careful tension adjustment. I fabricated a little arm to hang weights on, read and interpreted the book, and tweaked the exact on-center drag.

Seemed to work well, no play now, feels like new.
Only special tool was a postage scale to weigh the sockets I hung on the bar for the correct tension weight.

So, my advice would be to work on the one you have; send it to Larry and let him tweak it, or try it yourself if you have the time and the manual, and the understanding of ft-lbs vs newton-meters and all thay fun.

Cheers,
S-Class