Radiator hose anti-seize
 

What could I use as an anti-seize for radiator hoses? I just finished a wrestling match getting some off and that question came to mind.

Jim,
If you put something on the hose connections to make them slip off easier when you want them to, you run the risk of them slipping off when you don't want them to. First of all you don't remove rad hoses all that often, but if you are removing them to replace them, you can cut them with a utility knife. If you want to save them, Sears and others sell a neat tool I call a hook. You can use it to remove cotter pins and rad hoses. To remove heater hoses, etc, tool trucks carry plier like tools that push against the end of the hose and whatever you are removing it from. Both tools are hard to describe. You'd have to see them.

Peter

Use a VERY THIN film of silicone dielectric grease. Make sure the clamp is up against the upset portion of the nipple and snug so the hose can't be blown off due to system pressure buildup.

Duke

I put a light coating of silicone grease and take my chances. I wouldn't do this if I was working on customer cars. You'd hate to have a customer return if the hose did slip off.

Jim:

Peter is correct about the Craftsman cotter pin removal tool. I have used one for many years, never to remove cotter pins, only to remove hoses without damaging them. If you really want something to never seize the hose, try silicone paste grease in very small amounts. Only do this if your radiator has the raised ridge or end flare around the hose neck that prevents slipping. Virtually every radiator neck is built this way. But, I have seen radiator necks where some meathead has hack sawed off the flare so the hose will slip on and off easier...go figure. Place the clamp behind this flare, tighten it well and it should never come off past the flared ridge.

230/8

I still wouldn't recommend any type of lubricant. I do use silicone spray which dissipates to install hoses easier, but that's it. You gotta remember that cooling systems develop leaks over time. When you run a pressure check, you find leaks at connections. You correct the leaks by taking a couple of turns on the hose clamp that you tightened the heck out of when you installed them. The rubber has given up a little which leads me to believe that a loose hose clamp and a slick connection could mean disaster. Maybe not. I don't know. I just know that I have never seen a professional mechanic follow this procedure. I have never seen it as any kind of tip in all the professional magazines I receive.

230/8,
I use that hook for everything. I've had it for over twenty years. It is well worn and probably one of the most used tools in my box.

Peter