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  #1  
Old 10-23-2003, 09:09 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 110
Angry Slow blower fan on E300D '97

Hello again! Just when I thought I had a perfect car, now I notice that my E300D (210 chasis), has slow a/c blower. Seems to be on low all the way up to full and then slows at the final two lower levels. I gather from the various other inquiries that it probably is the regulator switch which is usually attached to the blower motor somewhere. Air is cool and compressor cycles off and on but very little wind. the side vents and the middle vents seem to be about the same. I need to know:
1. What is it likely to be?
2. How do I get to it?
3. Who sells oem parts cheap
4. Can I do it myself without rupturing a cervical or lumbar disc??
5. Anything else you would suggest?
Thanks in advance, as you usually come through for me. i.e.
replaced filters, glowplugs, tensioner pulley, motor mounts..
Harvey Gaspar

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  #2  
Old 10-23-2003, 09:49 PM
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Posts: 8
Slow Blower Motor

The same thing happpened to my 97 E420. I had to change several parts to make it work properly

part #
210-821-15-51 Regulator $159
210-835-27-40 housing $36
210-820-09-17 Electric connector $ 29
210-820-68-41 Blower Motor $ 313


Total $537

If you go to a dealer they will charge retail $780 for parts + labor.. You are looking at over $1000 if they do it.

It took me an hour to do. I took off the underdash cover on passenger side. Removed the black blower motor housing. Remove the old motor and regulator combo. Installed the new regulator to the new motor and installed.

This is very common and it should be a recall item for sure

good luck
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2003, 09:56 PM
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cheap parts

I got mine from a guy by the name of Tom Hanson 1-800-252-6877X 306. He sales at a dealership in So Cal and he sales everything at wholesale. I called my local dealer first and he quoted almost $800 and I got them from Tom for $537( all oe stuff there is no aftermarket for this stuff)
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2003, 11:47 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 110
Thanks for the good info. I think my motor is fine, but will have to check it when removed. Will have to think it over before I get started. Winter coming, so I am in no hurry, since I will be retired next week and will have all the time I need.

Did you have much trouble working upside down?
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  #5  
Old 10-24-2003, 01:00 AM
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Your motor may be fine but unless its the new style motor a change will be required. The blower motor regulator original to your vehicle was eliminated by M-B and its replacement requires the concomitant installation of a different blower motor.
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  #6  
Old 10-24-2003, 01:16 AM
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Posts: 37
Filter.

Just pulled one outta my E36 M3 and the blower is much more powerful now. Old filter had a tree decomposing in it and made a mess on the floor. Fresh filter will also help the motor last longer.
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  #7  
Old 10-24-2003, 08:28 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 39
fan/blower replacement 95 E320

Is this also a fix for the "squeeking/slight clicking" sound I am getting from my HVAC (I have read the many threads on this here!)? If this is as easy to replace, does this group think it will fix my noise. No noise when HVAC set to "O" or off.
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95 E320 Cab (46K Mi, Stock)
95 Tahoe (Rain & Snow)

88 300E 276K Mi (Donated to charity)
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2003, 09:11 AM
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
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Thanks jgl1,
Two blower switches are listed on my parts sheet:

To Chassis A 735000====210 821 29 51
From Chassis A 735001===210 821 15 51

Must be the old one vs the newer one.

Where is Chassis number visible on the car. Is it on the top of the radiator frame. If so which one of those numbers is it? I do not have any that start with an A.

Also in removing the old part, will that disturb the charcoal filters or will I be working around them?

Can I drive the car with the parts out as long as the switch is turned to off?

Sorry for all the additional questions, but I am not a trained mechanic and I only want to do this once. (I did build a sports car once, but that was in 89, and less complex than this baby).
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2003, 09:25 AM
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
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to: CWhitley;
I do not see a part number 210 820 19 17 Electrical connector in my parts display. Why did you need this? Is it a replacement connector that you plug the new switch into? If so did it require dis-assembly of the old plug, soldering, etc? or does it have an adaptor plug.
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2003, 05:53 PM
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
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TOOK IT APART TODAY

Took about 20 minutes. Findings:
one of the spade lugs (blue wire) to the motor was really loose, amazed the lug had not fallen out. motor and fan not to dirty. Put it all back together and tested. I wound up with about 3 speeds, but no high. But it is adequate for cooling down the car in reasonable time.

Did not find the usual MB parts numbers on either the switch or motor. The fan was Behr?. The switch seemed intact and the solder points (2) looked a little scorched but not oxidized. A little graphite like powder fell from the motor assembly but otherwise looked remarkably clean for a car fan.

Put it all back together and no vigorous blow but adequate. Any suggestions?????? Also do you keep the squirrel cage fan and just replace the motor, or does it all come together?

Regards, Harvey
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  #11  
Old 10-24-2003, 05:57 PM
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
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PS

Forgot to say that I crimped the spade lugs tight and put dielectric silicone on both lugs. Whole process took about an hour. Now I will be able to do the replacement even quicker. And to believe that the dealer would get about $300 for the labor is criminal.
Blame the insurance companies for agreeing to those time estimates on their payment schedules. (Think they are in it together?)

Have a nice week end, Harvey
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2003, 09:04 PM
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sorry I did not get back to you sooner. All of these have be changed because they relate to the new upgraded blower motor. When you get the new motor you will see the difference in appearance. When you get under the dash you will see the black cover that covers the motor. You have to remove 4 to 6 small screws to get the motor out. No need to move the charcoal filters.
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2003, 10:10 PM
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
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reply to cwhitley

Thanks CW. , see my last two notes. It was easier than I thought except for my unhappy neck. I will be calling the part guy in the am for a quote. I assume the new motor requires a different shaped lower cover? so assume that is the 'mounting plate' that is mentioned. Will keep all posted as it developes. Much easier to do than the motor mounts I did last week.
Regards, Harvey
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  #14  
Old 10-29-2003, 09:11 PM
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
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Thumbs up Problem Solved

Ok. After I checked everything, it was apparent that I would have to buy the whole package. You were right CW, the MB dealer in Anaheim was the cheapest, with two day service. However, they were wrong in advising the wire connector #210-820-09-17, because it is included with the motor now, so that all you need to order is the motor , switch, and cover. (that's just for those who might need to do this in the future). The job was cake, and now I have 6 speeds again. I can see why they revised the switch. now it is integrated into a large metal heat sink, so that should reduce heat damage to the circuitry. Now will sit and wait for the next component failure. Wish the Germans would hire the Japanese to build their electronics!

Thanks all for your contributions. Harvey

PS I am retiring Friday the 31st, so will have time to keep old Flubber fixed.
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  #15  
Old 10-31-2003, 10:20 PM
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Hello Harvey

Glad I could pass along the same advice I got from someone else on one of these posts. I remember the great feeling of accomplishment when I got the full affect of the blower. It is hot here in Va and I needed all the air I could get.

Congrats on the retirement!!!

Whit

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