Yea, verified meter, it works fine and it's brand new. Thanks for all your help.

That has been bothering me. At some point in time the DM (diagnostic module ) is the one handling the light and codes. is this car a CA version? The wiring diagram is needed at this point and I don't have one to look at here at home.

NEED some help from the group!

No its a fed car, had to build my own LED tool.

EDIT: going to check all the readings i've done so far, gimme 10 0minutes.

Fault Code: 9 (Current to Electro-Hydrualic Actuator)
EHA Current KOEO: 3.2mA
EHA Connector Voltage KOEO: .5v
ICV Current KOEO: .01mA
ICV Connector Voltage KOEO: 2.05v

One thing i forgot to mention from the beginning:

Upon startup, the car will sometimes sputter, and when given gas the RPM's will drop. Until the car gets relatively warm, the car will also hesitate off the line.

I'm not sure this is related, but i thought i would mention it.

You mentioned something earlier about the OVP going bad, is there a way that i can test this? Your article says that if the OVP goes bad it kills the EHA Current.

Sure sounds like a dead KE. If you had an OVP it would be a slam dunk. The cold starting systems will be dead if KE is dead and thus the symptoms.

Is the KE controller the black box behind the battery with the connector on top?

Everything is black back there. There are two larger boxes the KE and the ABS controller. The ABS is very wide and quite short the KE controller is about the size and shape of a book.

The MAS is silver with a black knob on the top with "I' and "O" written besides the knob.

Ok, i found it, from the looks of it, i'm betting its relatively expensive. Any way to test it? Or do you know about how much one would cost?

Did one last test, obtained from the service CD's.

I rigged a harness for the EHA, like before, and measured the current. KOEO, like before, was just 3.2mA, but with the engine warm and idling i got a current of 20mA, and after raising RPM to 3500 (as per the CD's) and releasing throttle, it jumped to -20mA. The CD says it should reach -60mA, or "repeat steps 1-4 or replace KE Control Unit"

Just would like to know if you know of any definitive tests to make sure the KE control unit is faulty before i have to purchase another one.

Anyone know how to test the KE Controller to verify whether it is faulty or not?