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#76
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Make sure you have one of the earlier injection pumps. You need to contact Neil Dubey at Star Motors and have this conversation with him. He is the most knowledgeable and will tell you exactly what you need to know. You're only going to get limited information here on this forum, simply because nobody here has the complete picture nor info that Neil does.
Cheers, Gerry |
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#78
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Paul, I agree. We never even drive one untill all cooling systems are rebuilt or replaced with new parts. That is Math 101. Guys who think they can are kidding themselves. Another point was raised much earlier; that 6.3s will end up on the scrap heap. Well, what can I say. That's great. Think of it, all those cheap parts. The last one in the world will be quite valuable. More so than any of the countless Gullwings parked forever in garages. Garage queens, what jokes. Drive them, or sell them. Another one of my theories.
Last edited by Dan Smith; 12-15-2004 at 09:46 AM. Reason: spelling |
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=110238 |
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Is there anyone else in North America, where I can get a competitive quote for a rebuild 6.3 engine, tranny, and rear axle to compare with Star Motors' or do I really have any other choice?
Last edited by RR3; 12-16-2004 at 09:12 AM. |
#81
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RR3, where my engines are modified, meaning rebuilt with all new parts but also altered, the costs are twice what Dubey's Star Motors charges. But then, we do more, everything. Our Goal, to cut as much friction as possible. I suggest Dubey for a more modest cost. If you wish a monster, without the thought of cost, MBI in Portland, Oregon. phone 503 231 0444. Trannies, Neil's firm is king. Fuel injection systems, two firms in California. Rear diffs, only Neil's Star Motors. Front end rebuilds, any good local firm can do it. Ditto for the entire fuel delivery system. Shift to 15 inch steel wheels with stock 15 inch hubcaps, the identical 6.3 look. Tires, 225/60 15, front and rear.
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#82
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You can purchase both long- and short-block 6.3 motors from Metric Motors in Southern California. You have to call them (Google for their web site) for quotes as they don't list them on the web site.
Your best best, as Dan says, is Star Motors as 6.3s are the bulk of their business and they know them inside and outside better than anyone out there. Again, the old adage applies as Dan and I have said since day one on this thread: when it comes to a 6.3, if you have the ask the price, then you shouldn't own the car. it's very difficult to kill a 6.3 motor. Yes, the peripherals, alternator,water pump, thermostat, brake system, hoses, ignition, belts, motor mounts, fuel injection pump, cooling system, yes all of that stuff goes out. It can also be rebuilt as well because it's mechanical. The actual block and head of the 6.3 are pretty close to as bulletproof as an engine can be as long as they have an adequate supply of lubrication. Some did, some didn't. it sounds as if some time spent on the phone with Neil Dubey would be time well spent in assessing where you are. Personally I would have had answers to all of these questions BEFORE purchasing the car, because it would reduce the potential for expensive mistakes and time-consuming detours to find vendors and places that can do the work. But as some say, "the journey is the reward." Perhaps Dan subscribes to that philosophy too. In any case, I think a thorough, early morning or evening conversation with Neil Dubey at Star Motors would take care of your needs for information you seek here. He doesn't charge for consulting time, and is plenty happy to make suggestions and answer questions. Cheers, Gerry |
#83
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Now that I have spent some time in the car I can give you guys some feedback.
The car is truly in amazing condition. This thing has a ton of torque. The air bags hold very well. It has been sitting for more than 2 weeks, with only slight sag in the front, but once the car is started it sets to the proper level right away. There is absolutely no sag over night. The car pulls really strong, although I dont know how it pulled when it was brand new. I can get the car to squak pretty well between 1 and 2nd upshifts. The interior, although having some slight cracking on the parchement coloured leather, is fabulous. The wood is in great shape no fade or cracking, even the piece on the dash is in incredible shape. The only thing I still notice is in reverse gear at parking speeds, for example backing up into a parking spot, there is a "bounciness" felt in the car, kind of like a "hopping" feeling as you are backing into the parking spot. What could that be? Also today was a bit of a wet, mild day about 40F, car started well, but took more turns than normal to start once I was out in the wet damp weather. Is there anything I can do to help me with that? Thanks |
#84
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The vibration you feel are the brake hold support bearings, in the axles. These are curved pieces of plastic that will vibrate and/or groan if not lubricated or are worn out.
There are grease fittings next to these that you can try to pump some grease into; if the bearings are not worn out they they will stop vibrating, but you have to keep on top of this periodically. More likely these are worn out and probably need replacing. It's not a major job, but tough enough. You can get a modern version with Teflon shims from Star Motors, at www.300sel.com This is a very common issue with 6.3s, by the way. 90%+ of them have it at one time or another. Cheers, Gerry |
#85
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Does this apply to 3.5 coupe? I have very similar vibration when the car is in the gear and the break pedal released. The car starts moving and you can feel light jerking back and forth. Once gas is applied it moves smooth. I'm possitive it's not engine hesitation. Or is it? Any ideas?
Thanks, Vilius
__________________
280se 3.5 coupe DB172 anthracite grey 2006 Toyota Avalon Limited 1999 Ford Explorer Limited Looking for early '60s Vespa 150 |
#86
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__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#87
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If memory serves me correctly, there are something like 13 grease nipples underneath the 6.3, and many of them are difficult to get at so they are overlooked (neglected) or unknown by mechanics unfamilar with the car...
Cheers, Gerry |
#88
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Hi Gerry,
Thanks very much for your reply. Do you have a diagram of where all these grease fittings are under the car? Also as mentioned in my previous post, the car seems to run very strong. Is there anything that I should notice though that would tell me if it is time to rebuild the injector pump or not? What should I look out for? Also is there anyone who sells v rated white walled tires? My car is dark blue with parchement interior, and with the bright work, a white walled tire looks surprisingly better on this car. Thanks R |
#89
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Here's two lube charts, one for the 111 and one for the 108 model. The 109 shares similar underpinnings with these models, so they should help you out until a 109-specific diagram surfaces. Both are auf Deutsch, so lassen sie uns aufgeregt erhalten! Or something like that.
http://www.w111.net/html/abschmierplan.html http://www.dbdepot.de/bilder/service/schmierplan_108.jpg |
#90
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Your best bet is to have a mechanic familiar with the mechanical injection system, adjust and calibrate it. Not too many of these around. These pumps are quite fiddly and you can get into trouble if you don't know what you are doing. Normally most of them do require some level of adjustment. You can get whitewall tires but not in the speed and load rating that the car requires, in the stock 14" wheel size. IT's a compromise really. You may want to try Coker Tire (www.cokertire.com) and discuss with them what options they would have available for the car. The 6.3 came stock with a V-rated tire of the 205-70-14 size (actually a P-Metric equivalent) and many owners use H-rated 215-series touring rubber instead, because they can't get proper V-rated rubber anymore. Only US 6.3s had whitewalls, all European and many US cars had blackwall tires, which I view as being more "proper" for the nature of the 6.3. I think Tire Rack and Coker Tire would be your best bets to investigate here. Good luck. Cheers, Gerry |
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