1971 220 - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Tomguy · #61 11-13-2005, 10:28 PM

If you take it off, you can find out which contacts are closed in the "P" and "N" positions, and jumper the wires. It'll be startable in every gear, and you won't have backup lights, but it'll be driveable.

Mark DiSilvestro · #62 11-13-2005, 10:53 PM

New neutral switches are still availible. Generally, old worn-out ones aren't repairable. If you already have it off, it's best to get a new one. There's also a bronze drive sleeve on the tranny shifter shaft that engages the switch. This sleeve sometimes cracks or breaks, so you should check that piece too.

Happy Motoring, Mark

meltedpanda · #63 11-14-2005, 09:53 AM

got her off and the brass sleeve looks OK. The part is plastic, and I have found an article on how to clean and repair, except it is for the 108/109 type which is metal.
I may give it a go anyway , just to see if it will work, if not get a new one. I have decided not to bypass for safety reasons. Would not go over well with the wife if I ran over one of the kids or put the ol gal through the wall into the living room

Has anyone opened and cleaned the plastic type?
Gosh it is a pain to work under there, not much room, actually had to loosen the tranny bracket a bit to get the part off.
Suggestions welcome and thanks

300SDog · #64 11-14-2005, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

.....I have decided not to bypass for safety reasons. Would not go over well with the wife if I ran over one of the kids or put the ol gal through the wall into the living room

Hmm, does anybody know what actually happens when you try and start an automatic in gear? I'm guessing that you probly wouldnt git the car started at all, but damage to the torque converter would result.

Panda, if it was me I'd reattach the busted switch into the tranny and experiment with hotwiring the device from the blind plug attachment you found under the hood. And then just rely on good driving habbits, always shutting off the car in Park to prevent any misadventure starting in gear.

Meanwhile either Marty North of Lexington or the Bowling Green boneyard has gotta have a replacement Neutral Safety switch if dissassembly/cleaning the old one doesnt work.

Hell yes, get the car running and drive it to Marty's place then you can get other fiddly bits like a front fender trim piece and even a door. It will be an excellent road trip for cleaning out the engine with fresh oil and fuel too.

meltedpanda · #65 11-15-2005, 09:07 AM

Dog, always words of advice and wisdom...

Almost like you speak from experience

meltedpanda · #66 11-18-2005, 09:04 PM

as you all can tell by my previous posts I have a majority of the "main problems" fixed. Onto the wheel bearings and brakes now. I hope they are straight forward, looking at the manual it appears so.
My other issue is a high idle, despite turning the idle screw to decrease it has no effect. I can push on the throttle arm and the RPM decreases but wont stay. When I shut her off I get a little dieseling. The good news, after prolonged run time , much less smoking
Any ideas? I am going to read up on the carb but it seems a bit complicated.
I am also getting a lot of rust particles in my prefilter, I will probably let it go awile longer but it will need changed, simple and only $2.

I also have one vacuum port that I have no idea about. It is the one of the lines off the manifold. it is a Y connection, one is running to what appears to be the vacuum for the ACC as it dives into the firewall
Any thoughts what the other connection is for.
Can't wait to get the brakes and bearings completed to take her out on a real spin
I did get her through all gears tonight comming up my driveway, she seems happy to be running again
THanks for all you help, if you have any ideas on the above , let me know.
I am going to try to keep all my questions within this post now so as not to confuse everyone, including myself

Check back often < I am sure I will need advice.
Time for a cold one

kpb · #67 11-18-2005, 10:06 PM

awesome dude. I'm next door (state-wise) can I share in that brew??

meltedpanda · #68 11-18-2005, 10:31 PM

shoot, I'd buy you one for sure, you have helped me bunches!

Perhaps we will cross paths someday

rs899 · #69 11-19-2005, 06:05 AM

As for the carb, of course check the manuals, but you may find that the needle/piston assembly does not seat fully into the jet in the fuel bowl. If you loosen the screws on top of the "bell", you may be able to center the needle in the jet and it keep it from rubbing in the jet. It may also be that what passes for a choke on one of these is hanging open slightly.

Rick

meltedpanda · #70 11-20-2005, 07:16 PM

Well I got the idle to smooth out , seems I had a vacuum line leaking on the pull off diaphram, once fixed, I was able to achieve a nice lower idle which smoothed out as well. I also changed out the gas filter. As you can see the engine bay is pretty much done, it has come a long way!
Questions today
1)Does any one know the spec for rotor thickness? These seem to be in pretty good shape, but I think they need skinned to get them smooth again. They have sat a long time and have some rust pitting.
2) Just how in the world do you get the back drums/disks off to repack the bearings? Seems straight forward but mine do not want to come off
3) Grease recommendation for re packing?

t walgamuth · #71 11-20-2005, 11:09 PM

can be used usually and they will smooth themselves out.

to get the hub off you will need to unbolt the caliper.

you are doing good work and getting good advice here.

on the body work, i would get a door and push out the rear fender. welding in a new fender will create many places for rust to start. borrow or rent a body jack. push out opposite of the force that pushed it in.

good work and good luck

tom w

meltedpanda · #72 11-21-2005, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

to get the hub off you will need to unbolt the caliper.
tom w

I have the caliper off, I cant seem to remove the rotor, tips anyone

Mark DiSilvestro · #73 11-21-2005, 08:06 PM

My factory manual recommends removing stuck rear rotors with "light taps with a plastic hammer". It also recommends cleaning them by hand with emery paper.

Rotor thickness specifications -
Fronts - New 12.6 MM, Min. 11.7 MM
Rears - New 10 MM, Min 9.4 MM

I didn't find a repack recommendation for the rear hub bearings. I think they're serviced by replacemnt when needed and there are special tools illustrated to dissassemble and press apart the hubs and races on these. Unless they're loose or noisy, I'd leave them alone.

Happy Motoring, Mark

kpb · #74 11-21-2005, 10:16 PM

BTW, Ron, do you have a fah-reeckin' job????????

Really, all this concentrated time on this project! YOU are the MAN.

(I know you'll take this the way it is intended...)

meltedpanda · #75 11-21-2005, 10:17 PM

Thanks Mark, I got them off by giving them a good wrap. They are in poor shape and thin so I am going to replace them, they may be original, the fronts look good and I am going to have the local garage skim the rust off them. New pads all the way around. I have not found anything on the rear bearings either. I guess I will leave well enough alone unless someone else knows how to get to them.