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  #61  
Old 02-03-2009, 03:55 PM
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The noise does not varrie so to speak with acceleration but comes and goes. It's from the exterior, I have no idea what ACC flaps are? If you could tell me how to check to see if they are working I can report back on that. The shifting has no problems, no slips or stutters. What does the vacuum do? How can I tell if it's working good? Thanks gor the help, If you haave the read the thread you will see that I'm no car person. But want to learn.

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  #62  
Old 02-03-2009, 08:19 PM
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ACC = Automatic Climate Control

if the sound is from the engine bay
cruise control?
Vacuum leak?
do your brakes work good?
Check the lines to the vacuum pump
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  #63  
Old 02-03-2009, 08:20 PM
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Check your belt tensions.................and look for glazing.
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  #64  
Old 02-03-2009, 08:39 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys, But where is the vacum pump located and what do I need to do to check the lines? The breaks work good, As for the belt's how would I check the tension and glazing? If they where lose where exactly would I tighten them?
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  #65  
Old 02-04-2009, 11:31 PM
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Hello Nik,

I will be working in Hamilton, O. the next couple of days. If you want to meet and look at the 280SEL email me your phone number ja17@att.net
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  #66  
Old 02-05-2009, 07:45 PM
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It turns out to be the belts making the noise, I bought some belt conditioner for the moment and it seems to work, But I really have no idea what belt exactly it is and how I would tighten them. I really need to get the Star classic Cd.
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  #67  
Old 02-05-2009, 07:48 PM
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Start with the alternator..it has a simple adjusting rod to tighten the belt...
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  #68  
Old 02-06-2009, 10:30 AM
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Belt conditioner is a temporary fix at best. It usually stops it for a day or two but ultimately just ends up gunking everything up, be very sparing with it and expect it to fail.

Fresh belts at the correct tension is what you want. Tightening old slick belts up is hard on the bearings of your accessories and they cost much more than v-belts.

Be careful with that big alternator bolt though, I managed to snap the ear off mine the first time I tried to change my squeaking belt, big headache!
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  #69  
Old 02-06-2009, 04:46 PM
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My grandpa tried adjusting the alt. rod but could not find it on there, and he also said that the adjustment bolt bracket on top was all the way out meaning it could night be tightened anymore. Is there any pictures or any more detailed explanation anyone has on how to adjust the belts starting with the alt. rod? We also greased all the grease points today which made me happy. The only 2 problems that remain our the belt noises, and on a cold start up they car makes a noise that makes it sound like its having a hard time starting, and it won't start on a cold start in park. I can't really explain it but I'm hoping Ja17- joe will be able to help me figure these things out. Thanks everyone, and I'll keep reporting back!
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  #70  
Old 02-06-2009, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ja17 View Post
Hello Nik,

I will be working in Hamilton, O. the next couple of days. If you want to meet and look at the 280SEL email me your phone number ja17@att.net
I sent you a e-mail, Just checking to see if you got it since I haven't heard from you.
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  #71  
Old 02-07-2009, 11:03 AM
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Ok guys I have a question. I have about $700 dollars, and want to make the car a reliable everyday driver. Is there any good mechanics that would be willing to tell me how much and that could do it for me that are at least kind of local to the Cincinnati area.

I need the following done: (the first 3 are a must)

1. A tune up including (New spark plugs and cable with a new cap, Oil change, Fluids changed, Tire rotation, etc)

2. My belts changed and adjusted

3. I need the car to star up like the car should. (the car kind of rumbles/knocks and slowly starts on cold starts)

4. All rubber replaced

5. Anything else a reliable honest mechanic would think needs to be dones after inspecting the car.
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  #72  
Old 02-07-2009, 11:18 AM
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Welcome to the real Benz World..
All rubber replaced for $700 ....let me know when you find that guy.
He is rarer than the car.........
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  #73  
Old 02-07-2009, 11:56 AM
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as I said i need the first 3 the rubber is not a thing I need right now. I was just wondering how much it was. I have 700-900 for the first 3.
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  #74  
Old 02-07-2009, 12:18 PM
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I see..well, that will be the easy part and should not cost much.

But the suspension parts on those chassis are expensive to replace..tho you may want to just start with the motor mounts [ including rear trany ] and rear differential hanger support in the trunk...those are not costly and are the first ones you want to change ..
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  #75  
Old 02-07-2009, 03:54 PM
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Around here, $700 get the transmission out of your car. and another $700 gets it back in.

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