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#1
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I could almost cry !
About a month ago the car began having a sticky right rear brake.
I checked this and found the brakepads totally worn so I replaced those and for about a week the prob was solved.Then it came back! After some asking in the Tech forum I was convinced it was caused by a worn piston seal,since they are not that expensive I oredered these from MB,had to come from Köln Germany but who cares.I had them in a few days but untill today no time to install them. So today i took the car out of the garage ( small garage I have to take to car out just to work on it ) jacked it up and took the wheel off. And tears jumped in my eyes ![]() The inside of the wheel was covered with brakefluid and the brakedisk was badly damaged I can't even describe how it looks. So there I was wondering what the f**k I should do now. If I replace pistonseal and brakedisc would it be ok ? If I only would replace the pistonseal I would probably wear out a brakepad a week so that's no option. So I called the locall MB dealer (who has a great reputation) and started out ordering a new disk but after discussing with him about difference in wear of rear disks I decided on a totall renewing of the rear brakes.So 2 new disks,2 complete calipers with new seals and pads etc. Will cost me a leg aprr. $ 700 usd. But then I know the brakes are good ?? Should I change the brakefluid while I'm at it ?? Since this is going to be a DIY job any pointers on any tricky stuff I could encounter ? I'm stretching my budget so i hope it will be an easy job ?? The parts I take off can be rebuild ?? And offcourse the parts have to come from Germany again so no driving this weekend ![]() I thought of looking for parts from a donor car but with brakes and other safety related parts I don't want to take the chance of replacing one bad part with the other. |
#2
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Yes, by all means flush the brake fluid completely, front and rear. I think at this point, I would opt for replacing the caliper rather than rebuilding. If you are going to replace a caliper, replace both sides. When you say the rotor was badly damaged, how do you mean - gouged, rough, no longer serviceable (as from metal to metal wear), or was it just a gooey mess of brake pad material and brake fluid? If damaged, by all means replace both sides.
$700.00 USD seems a bit high, but then again you are paying dealer price. I don't know if PartsShop or FastLane ship to NL, but they might. You would save a bundle buying from here if you could.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP ![]() Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#3
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Rene,
If you haven't replaced them recently and, especially, if you are going to spend $700 on brake parts, I would strongly recommend you replace all of the rubber brake hoses. Even if they look OK on the outside, they may be plugged on the inside, causing the brakes to seize and overheat. Plugged brake hoses destroyed the front brakes on my 1961 180b years ago even though the hoses looked fine from the outside.
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DrDKW |
#4
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Mark
I'll surely replace the hoses too,just hope they have them on stock.I'll need the MB repaired soon.I drive a Mitsubishi L300 for work<>home and the MB is my private daily driver.When I stay under 500 private km/year with the l300 the taxdepartment will leave me alone . About those hoses,if bleeding with the helper procedure the oil comes out freely this would mean the hoses are not plugged ? Thanks for your advice ![]() |
#5
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That is a huge amount of money for calipers, rotors, and pads for a W114/115. I took a quick look and came up with around $325 on Partsshop. You are paying a huge premium getting this stuff from a dealer!
I personally don't see anything wrong with rebuilt calipers. And yes, I would replace the hoses.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#6
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After reading Chuck's reply I can see that I'm paying way too much. But I need the parts fast and MB can deliver fast.
Does partshop ship to Europe anyway ?? |
#7
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Rene,
There are numberous places in the Netherlands to get used parts from...Have you tried Mark van den Brand, checked the adverts in the Saturday Telegraaf, asked for parts on www.onderdelenlijn.nl or www.mbatc.de? 700USD iS WAY too expensive for those parts...700 Dutch guilders is even too much! It might even be possible that we have used (or even new) callipers for the /8 lying around... good luck and greetingz,
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1990 300SL-24 1993 C250D with a minor 600+k kilometer www.MBenzNL.com(the Netherlands) |
#8
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Rene,
While bleeding the brakes, a 'helper' may be able to pump the fluid out. The problem is that a partially plugged hose may not allow fluid pressure to release back to the master cylinder. Happy Motoring, Mark DiSilvestro 1972 250 4DR 1972 250C 1961 180b 1960 220S 1964 DKW F12 Cabrio 1957 DKW 3=6 Coupe
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DrDKW |
#9
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Mbenz
thanks for those url's I'll marked them for future use. Since I allready ordered the parts I'll buy them at the dealer this time.Since I need the car fixed soon I took the fastest way I knew at that time and with that accepting dealer prizes. Mark I'm planning to replace the hoses,if they are not in stock I'll order them maybe those urls I got from Mbenz will help me with that ![]() thanks for your explanation |
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