250SL how do I adjust the hot idle?

[Arthur Dalton]

Originally Posted by mespe

Yes they sent me a data card, 4 speed manual, metric gauges and euro headlights,,,

Very Good..Euros are much nicer...



You have to take the driveshaft off..flex disc, etc..tranny stays in..special socket.
86 ft/lbs [ if I remeber correctly]

Does this invole turning alot of screws (remove tranny) or just a couple?

Note **
If I were you , I will once again recommend you go look into that 113 Group..Every one of these procedures are well written right out on that site..step by step., by guys who have "Been there -Done That"
My preference is this site..but for a new 113 guy like you..that is where you will benefit the most. Even if you just go look at there Archieves ..it is quite full of all that stuff.
They even have the Data Card code interpretations/decipher section


[ and I have a feeling you are not going to stop asking questions]
....not that I really minded..the car is worth talking about..but knowing the info is right there is also worth mentioning.
They have a few Experts over there..JA17 is one..he is here, too..those are his pics I was using ....
Try It .you will like it.. I just noticed your location...they have a 113 meet coming up soon right at JA's house in Blacklick, OH, which must be close to your house..should pop in there , too... [ 71 S to Columbus]
Bring some of those 113 parts you have on ebay with you ..but get those prices down to real world. .....

[mespe]

I am a member there, same userid. I guess I didn't ask for help. I've been a member here for many years and feel more comfortable with you guys.

Wow a Gold member over there, but then again I had no doubts, I've read many of your posts, and once you started in on my thread, I knew I was n good hands,,,

I PM'ed JA,,, not sure the Pagoda would make it there, as I need Lower control arm bushings, badly.

I haven't been able to find the procedures over there.

[Arthur Dalton]

Well, Thanks for finally telling me that..I have only been ,mentioning that to you about 2 days now...

Feedback, Man... I don't get none, I don't give none.

You got me posting pics from there and stuff and you are a Member ????

Then why don't you have all this info..I know it is over there cuz I put some of it there myself....

[mespe]

During this troubleshooting/repair process, my mind was trying not to forget the important technical info that I overlooked mentioning my membership there.

I've looked through the website, and I believe the procedures I needed are limited to the advanced members.

I haven't located the pictures there, until I backed a couple directories on the picture you posted ( http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/ja17/ ) you get the directory if it's not locked , most are locked nowadays,,, that's the first I saw of any pictures,,, thanks,,,


Now, getting back to business, here's the latest,,,

WRD shimmed = no air leak, AND no black smoke yippie,,,
backfire is still there, but not as bad, however it still does the "pack of firecrackers" when RPMs are dropping at around 2000 RPM, really sounds neat, but I don't think it's doing the engine any good.

Since it's Sunday, all testing procedures are called off, so I 'll do the vac test on Tuesday. Looks like rain today, so no driving her.

SIDE NOTE: (read at your leisure)

Yesterday evening, I saw so many classic cars on the road around here, I would venture to say one in 25 cars I saw was a classic, and I wan't aware of any car show Yesterday, people just cruisin' Gas is cheap, the sun was shining, it's a holiday weekend, people just forgeting the economic crisis that is unfolding,,, alot more info at www.kitco.com for you SHTF people out there,,,

[Arthur Dalton]

During this troubleshooting/repair process, my mind was trying not to forget the important technical info that I overlooked mentioning my membership there.
>

Well, you got the Abuser part correct anyway..

You had me posting info for days on that fuel Knob, when now I know you could have just gone to a place you are a member of and that whole knob /idle procedure thing was right at your fingertips ??? THey have so much info on that over there it has been kicked to death..
You just like someone holding your hand..

I Tech on a dozen Forums and I don't hold guys Hands.
I'll wind up with Carpo-Tunnel answering all your questions...........

You are all set and if you just dug a little deeper over there , you would have found out the decelleration rumble is normal on the R18 Bosch Pump..they added an extra fuel cut-off solinoid later to eliminate that , but most guys cut the wire to that cuz they like it.[ which was the reason for my very early question to you as to if you had one or two solinoids on your pump] ..see how every thing I asked you for a responce had a little reason to it .
The extra sol was an early Emmission mod for US versions....once the car is running in tune and a/f mix is correct , it will not be so pronounced.

Anyway, you seem to have everthing in control now and I believe you understand the basics, so that should do it.
This is the longest " How do you set the hot Idle " thread I have ever had....
Put your elect ign in there , tighten up those linkages [ There is a great 'Linkage Tour" there too].. re-time the ign w/light to those specs I gave you [ or use your own], set the a/f mix using the vac gauge and you are good to go.
I will add this:
Now that you have the WRD shimmed , there is a final test on the pump that you can check into...the front of pump has a plug that you remove and you insert a screw into the rack from the front [ all this is there too]..that test bolt can now be used as a final tweaking check for a/f mix ..it had a nuetral spot and if you have to pull the rack foward to get the engine to run smooth, the mix is too lean and visa/versa...it is a good final check.anddo all these AFTER you set the new IGN up or you are wasting your time.

That's about all I have..........

[mespe]

I did look around over there, guess I didn't check the forum out thoroughly. I came across this in the technical manual,,,

" Fuel Linkage Tour"
"This section has been moved to premium content for Full Members only. "

and got stuck, then I searched on peachpartsmercedesshopforum and didn't find much either, so I started this thread, and you provided a step by step methodical approach to fixing this poor broken down SL, I can sense a smile glimmering in her chrome emblem now.

As far as the knob goes, the only thing I can think of is that the fuel enrichment scew was totally unscrewed from whatever it get screwed into, and when I was trying to lean it out, it was turning, but no clicking was evident and no resitance felt.

As far as carpal tunnel, You'll end up where out the keys on your keypad answering all my questions,,,

Why do they run coolant around the Throttle intake?

[Arthur Dalton]

I see what you mean..I thought you were a paid member ..they have limited some of the good stuff to members only, and I applaud them for that ..there is a lot of work putting together all the stuff they have done over there. [Which is why I recommended them]
I was a frequent poster there way back from the old Yahoo days, but never a member.

To your question:

To Prevent Iceing from moisture in the intake air throat.

The engine has the breather pipe going from the valve cover over to the intake to get reburned ..but it carries moisture by-products of the crankcase , and in low ambient temp, combined with the venturi effect of the throttle plate, it is possible to freeze the throttle...Not Good !
That same breather is what brings the oil slop that you had trouble with when your vac nipple was plugged for the ign Retard. Infamous problem.
The pipe between the valve cover and the TB can also freeze up in winter b/c of this same moisture condition, so the later models put a Cuff around that line and the water line to help alleviate that condition. But it was not too effective.
Then , they went to a FI pump that was self lubricating , using engine recirculating oil to feed the pump instead of the pump like yours with the seperate " OEL " reservoir. [ My preference] . Problem was then the moisture could also reach the crankcase section of the FI pump from the engine ..no good again. Plus you get contaniments from the crankcase in your FI pump.
The main reason for this was no owners ever checked their pump resevoir with that little dip-stick I showed you.. , Anyway, guys into it also know all these shortcomings of this poorly designed Breather system, so we bring the breather pipe off the valve cover into a homemade Drop Tank and let that vent to the outside air, eliminating all the faults of the original system..
[ plus it cuts down on pinging, but no one believes me on that one, but I know better..]
Benz could not do that b/c they were just starting to get into Emmission control and Mandates [ like the fuel shut-off sol for US versions I mentioned in another thread on your decell complaint.]
Your car , being Euro and having the earlier OEL res pump is the good one, with the only mod needed on them is to convert to Ball valves from the original cone valves at the lines ..and that is only if they leak by..
And that's the skinny on that , give or take a few biased opinions.....................

If you can get a copy of "The Mercedes Collector ", Vol #6 /Mar./'93,
they have an in depth MFI section that is detailed and most of their info I am in agreement with...
Google that and see ..I know you could get back copies for $10 each, and that #6 is worth having for MFI info if you are really interested in the finer points of these systems. It also has a Pump Evolution Chart showing all the mods they went thru in Benzs attempt of perfecting the weak points and in keeping up with early Emmissions ..[late 280 Pumps]

[mespe]

I just knew you couldn't leave a question unanswered! TY

Looks like I'm going to redo all the adjustments again. Ever since I shimmed the WRD it's not starting on the first crank, might check CSV too, don't think I ever checked to see if it actually works or not, and the hot idle is at around 1000-1050 RPM

Now the darn shimmy in the car is getting to me, told the wife, I'm gonna end up spending a couple hundred more on suspension repairs,,, I did not like the look on her face,,,

[Arthur Dalton]

After WRD shim redo, ALL the idle adjusting has to be redone b/c the shim effects ALL ranges , including idle...so, back to the thumb screw and vac gauge ..and I don't want to see a " Knob don't turn again" post.

By doing the WRD shim change, you have moved the rack to a leaner position across the board,..they wear Rich, so that is why you were rich running..I did not go to that yet until I was statisfied w/retard and ign settings
Removing a shim drops the pin from the thermo down a bit and that extra pushes the rack a little ..notice that when WRD thermo is cold, it is NOT extended , which means a super Rich setting for the pump, which is what is called for when the engine is COLD , As it warms, it leans via the thermo pin extending . If you have the air slide closing as it should when warm, then you can do final tweaks for off -idle rack positioning with the Baro compensator...many guys eliminate that and put an adjusting screw there for fine tweaking of the rack..mostly the guys over at the Porsche site. But they use gas analyzers.
You don't have to get that far out. I would just redo the idle and run those NGK for a while to clear that engine out.. and then pull the plugs and do a plug "READ"..that will be close enough to the truth...

[mespe]

I think I got her running good. She starts first crank when warm, idle's nice and smooth. I got 12 inches at the TB vac port, and slightly higher at the brake booster port.

Now I'm going to tackle the "it takes 3 cranks to start when cold" symptom. I never did check to see if the CSV is putting any fuel into the manifold, always been too rich,,, although when I do finally get some clean NGK plugs in there, might help.

[Arthur Dalton]

CSV only comes on at Starter Crank when cold...Put a 12v test lamp on that wire and ground and go hit the key. Does lamp light?

You can also take the 7mm hex test plug off the CSV and hold a rag there while someone cranks the starter..gas should come out the test port while cranking. [ an ONLY then]

many guys put a momentary ON sw in the cabin to work the CSV manually , like a manual choke , but electric.
Just have to run a wire from the W terminal of the TTS and ground the cabin sw. That will get you CSV at crank when you hold the sw in/ON..