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Thanks for the advice guys - I know I dont have a lot tied up in it just yet - but I wanted it to save money on gas - Now I will have to keep it for no less than 1 year - maybe 18 mos just to break even - assuming not too much else goes out.
The sound is a nasty grinding sound. It didn't do this when I drove the car to work the two times, but really started up good just in the last couple days. In fact I think the worst of it was just after I changed the injector nozzles. It sounds like the muffler is dragging on the ground - that loud. I ran down the block once and it came and went. Was really bad at low speeds but went away around 15 mph and came back in and out as the speed went up. Since it was totally silent with the wheels off the ground - i cant see how it could be anything but the bearing. Today I pulled the flex disk - its starting to go - not bad - but not safe. I pulled the brakes on the drivers side and tapped out the axel. The joints seem really good. No play and they make no sound at all when i rotate them. The hub on the other hand - it moves freely and doesnt appear on first inspetion to have let the bearing go - but you can hear just barely a sound when it rotates. This has to just scream with the weight of the car on it. In any case - the car is on jack stands until I can get the new flex discs in place. I will probably order the wheel bearing tool too - so I can at the very least re-pack all the bearings. I placed an ad on CL for parts cars - $400 merc. 240d or 300d. I got an email from a guy a couple hours away wanting to sell me his 240d for $850. He just bought it and didnt realize just how slow they are. He wants out now - drives it daily - says the floors are gone and the interior is beat - but it has a newer engine, new exhaust, new alt. new tires - manual windows - busted AC. His wheel wells are just as rusty as mine - I'm very tempted. I could pull a ton of parts off of it - and junk the rest of the car - or junk mine. .... Sorry - started day dreaming there - I think mine is in better shape than his - but his at least rolls. with the new nozzles the car really runs better than before. I just need to buckle down and get it done. It doesn't help that the stator just blew on my Harley ($500) and the wifes car needs new tires. Funny how life goes. |
You are not alone...
I had a plan as well. I drive a LOT to make a living so I figured I'd get out from under some debt and save some gas $$ (Current fuel prices are cutting into my bottom line. I make quite a bit of $$ from mileage) by getting one of those "bulletproof, run-forever MB diesels". *sigh* It's in the garage waiting on parts and I'm driving the wifes car for now... Nothing mechanical other than freshening the suspension but electrical/vacuum problems have cropped up which are a PITA to sort. I spent $3500 on a car with less than 100,000 miles on it (Pretty sure it's accurate because It came with all the service records) to avoid these problems but here they are :rolleyes: Hopefully it will be worth it. I have a 250,000 mile 300SD that I fell in love with driving and decided to get another "good one" for a daily driver. It aint doing much drivin'. Hopefully it will be worth it... |
As they say, "There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes". I'm into my $800 300D for about seven grand at this point. That's okay because I now own a configuration that was inexplicably never offered by the factory, and I don't plan on selling it until I get too old to drive (could be a while since I'm only 33) or they ban the diesel engine.
I'm also into my $700 250 for about three. I kick myself on a regular basis about this particular POS. BTW, I'm very willing to trade for a motorcycle. Anybody got a 250 Ninja or a Ducati Monster they've outgrown? I got pretty lucky with my 240D. I picked it up for $480, changed a slave cylinder, a windshield, and a few minor things, and got 24,000 miles out of it before I raped it for the transmission and sold the leftovers. |
Hmm
Quote:
1980 Mercedes Benz 240D (Hammond, IN) http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/cto/2383316725.html Parting out 1982 Mercedes 240D - $100 (St.Clair,MO.) http://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/2316428648.html LOOK MY 74 MERCEDES FOR CAMPER,ATV.OR CASH - $1 (ADAMS) http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bar/2382167551.html Scrap cars for sale make offer (Palmyra) http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/2367543824.html 1982 Mercedes 240D Diesel - $900 (Nky) http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/2314318302.html 2 Mid 70s Mercedes Benz 240D diesel(parts) - $500 (Freeman, MO.) http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/2325599688.html 84 300CD Mercedes Benz - $1000 (Holliday Mo) http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/cto/2371684936.html 79 Mercedes 300D Needs work - $800 (Zimmerman ) http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/cto/2382533724.html 81 Mercedes 300D - $700 (McComb) http://limaohio.craigslist.org/pts/2303727554.html |
Thanks! The first two are the closest - they are both 3 to 4 hrs from me. I really like the one in Indiana though - I wonder what they want for it.
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More data
Quote:
The Chicagoland Section of the Mercedes-Benz Club of America http://www.mbclub.com/ http://www.mbclub.com/contact_us.htm |
Chicago is too far away for me to bother with traveling to on a regular basis. I would consider it in the Peoria area or even springfield il. Its only 90 mins or so away.
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BTW - I have not heard back on the car in Indiana -
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you have too much time on your hands!
See what you can find me in Central IL - Peoria, Springfield, Bloomington, decatur area. I found my current car in decatur - it wasn't even listed as an MB - just "mechanics special" - the pic was the 240d - said it could run, but hadn't since the glow plug relay went out. I called & he said the brakes were sticking - turns out the wrong thickness pads were installed. I am getting mine close to reliable - maybe another week. Or even this weekend if I get the tools in. I need to install the flex joints, motor mounts and repack all the wheel bearings. After that - its cosmetic and little stuff like the odometer and central locks. |
OK - I got the car back together and running perfectly!
After replacing the rear axels and passenger side wheel bearing I discovered it was the darn swaybar link dragging along the inside of the wheel that was causing my grinding sound. I knew it was disconnected but didn't know it was touching anything. Hmm. So - now I have a fairly cheap - perfectly running new brakes, rear axels, bearings, injectors battery car. Its ready for another 200k miles. |
Ouch
Plastic sway bar end link
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=240945 |
Interesting - mine was't plastic - but steel.
In any case - I'm on to the small stuff now! Central lock system, maybe the AC (not this year though) rust repair (looks worse than it is) Cruise control, radio. |
A suggested troubleshooting sequence
I have very recently dealt with the R & R of these rear trailing arms and the wheel bearing & axle shafts, etc.
It's not an easy job to replace the wheel bearings, but right now, you don't know if that's the problem. Since you have already found some trouble inside the axle shaft boots, you might consider removing the axle shafts. The axle shafts can be foreshortened just enough to barely be able to get them out without having to remove the rear trailing arms, springs or shocks. This makes it a reasonably easy job. You DO have to open the differential by taking the back cover off so that you can pull the circlips that hold the axle shaft in the differential. To swap an axle on one side took me two hours total. Both sides should be less than 3 hours to remove and re-install. Once you have the axle shafts out, you WILL be able to separate the variables regarding the noise(s) and find out who's the problem. You will also be able to clean out the crud in the axle shaft joints and re-lube them. You will also see if you've got a problem inside the differential. If those gears don't look perfect, you've got a problem there. You will be able to turn the wheels without the diff connected. If you've got a significantly bad wheel bearing, you should be able to tell. This will help you to bound the scope of what you're dealing with. You may still have a problem in the axle shaft(s), but that isn't the grinding noise, the noise they make is a very low frequency kind of rumble, but you'll have to get that thing quieted down before you'll be able to evaluate that. R & R of the axle shafts isn't that big a job. R & R of the trailing arm is harder; you have to deal with the springs. Replacing the wheel bearing assy is another significant task. If you decide to take my suggestion on removing the axles for the evaluation, I would suggest loosening the boot clamp on the can at the outer joint and pushing the boot off the can on that side. The reason is that to get the axle shaft out of the back of the hub requires the joint to be cocked at a maximal angle to the shaft. This kind of bending on an old boot can cause a leak. If you scoot it off the can, it won't get bent like this. You will have to remove the diff mount and lift the diff way up to get the axle out, then lower it back down to take the cover off, pull the circlips and get the axles slid out sideways , but that's pretty much the extent of it; you don't even need to remove the calipers, although your parking brake problem will require some attention. You'll need new circlips; outer seals to the diff & Dirko sealant that's ~$40, but you'll then know if you got big problems (the diff), medium problems (the wheel bearing(s)) or some other minor problem. Just a suggestion. |
Yup - I did all of that.
New axels with a lifetime warrenty were only $45 at my local flaps. Since I needed boots anyway - I figured what the heck and ALREADY replaced them. Your procedure was correct. I did both rear wheel bearings already too. The grinding sound has been corrected. it was the drag link on the rear sway bar. |
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