Axle won't go in

[ggenovez]

I see.

So If I want more clearance that what I have I need to remove the trailing arm or subframe?

Can I remove the trailing arm without removing the subframe?

Thank you

[Stretch]

The FSM says it is possible to remove the trailing arm with the sub frame still fitted but it isn't a job I'd be happy to try. Access to the bolts is very limited.

Also you are making more and more trouble for yourself. The axle should just slot in. Really it should - there has to be something else wrong for this not to "just happen".

This is why I've asked to see pictures.

[ggenovez]

Understood. I'm still in the office right now and don't have access for photos.

What will you be looking for? just a photo of the hub and axle not fitting?

[Stretch]

No I'd like to see

1) an anti roll bar totally disconnected from the trailing arm
2) the caliper hanging away from the trailing arm
3) the differential raised as high as you dare (mount removed - so it has to higher up than normal)
4) the shock disconnected (not normally necessary but this is something special!)
5) someone standing on the trailing arm trying to push the bugger into the dirt
6) the axle fitted in the differential

and then the other end of the axle - COMPRESSED - not able to slot into the back of the hub...

...'cos that should do it!

[ggenovez]

Hey Stretch,

Sorry it's been so long but I've been busy and it's been HOT. Unfortunately I received a letter from the city to get it fixed or they'll tow it. I have 30 days so even though it's hot I have a renewed sense of priority

Here are the photos you suggested.



old axle vs new ( i think to old is a hair taller)


I managed to get it up on the hub by using a pry bar and a socket, but I know I'm going to damage the rest of it since it took quite a bit of force.



What I'm guessing is it's been in an accident and it has a few degrees turned inwards.

My best guess to have them installed is to find a way to lower the differential while still keeping the hub up high.

is there a way to separate the two?


Thhanks

[Stretch]

It looks to me like you don't have the car high up enough.

The angle on the axle is too shallow you need something a bit more like this =>



(Please excuse the dodgy drawing package!)

By forcing the axle in the way that you have been doing is going to cause damage. You need to get the car up high and the wheel / hub down low. Serious angle on the axle shaft is needed. Bend the axle ends / cans / joints as sharply as they can go.

The new ones do indeed look slightly short in your picture so you should be good.

[Stretch]

Can you confirm that the stop on the trailing arm is touching the stop on the subframe?

See the arrow in this picture I've modified =>



If these are touching then there's nothing you can do except something that you shouldn't!

Before we get to that - can you measure the length of the stop on the trailing arm (from trailing arm to top of stop) and compare that with the other side?

[ggenovez]

K stretch. I'm on it. When you say measure the trailing arm to the stop what direction are you referring?

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by ggenovez

K stretch. I'm on it. When you say measure the trailing arm to the stop what direction are you referring?

I meant either this =>



Or this



These are both pictures of an all steel trailing arms that came off my W123(.130) - I'm thinking that if the stops are doing their job => they are stopping the trailing arms from dropping <= the dimension of the stop could be incorrect for your car.

To check this theory I'd like to hear from you if the dimensions of these stops - their positions relative to the top of the trailing arm - are the same on both sides of the vehicle. I was under the impression that the trailing arms are the same for the W114 / W115 / W123 and first generation W126 - the W116 ones I believe are slightly different although they look the same...

...I do have a solution if the stop is the problem but I'd like to check if it is that bit that is the problem first.

[ggenovez]

Ok Stretch,

Yes, the stop is touching, and it measures about 2.5 cm if measured as in the top photo

Here is a video of us jacking up the differential

[Stretch]

The video link is invisible!

[ggenovez]

http://vid294.photobucket.com/albums/mm109/ggenovez/Mobile%20Uploads/20140908_185426.mp4

[Stretch]

OK there's a surprising amount of movement in the differential before everything starts to move.

Can you see if the differential is securely fitted to the subframe?

The bolts are easier to see in this picture =>



There are four of them that go from the differential case to the subframe - only two are visible in the picture above - the other two are on the other side of the subframe


Can you see if the subframe has been damaged?

[Stretch]

More subframe pictures

[ggenovez]

No, I don't see any damage to the sub frame. The bolts look good.

There are no CV joints attached. That may be why you see all that movement.