280se 4.5 w117 engine removal...help! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jwalk1972 · #1 03-04-2019, 05:40 PM

Hi All,

I'm trying to remove an engine and tranny through the front of the car. I've never pulled an engine this way or at all on my own. I was told I could keep it on the front axle and roll it out. Has anyone done this? If so, could you advise?

thx

Tomguy · #2 03-04-2019, 08:15 PM

Below your plastic bin I see subframe mount bolts. Did you just undo the 1 big bolt? The shock nuts are still on. Are those undone from the underside? The entire subframe assembly can come out with the engine on it but it must be 100% unbolted from the body.

jwalk1972 · #3 03-05-2019, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomguy

Below your plastic bin I see subframe mount bolts. Did you just undo the 1 big bolt? The shock nuts are still on. Are those undone from the underside? The entire subframe assembly can come out with the engine on it but it must be 100% unbolted from the body.

thx Tomguy.

this link helped.

PeachPartsWiki: DIY 108 Chassis Sub-frame Mounts

1. I've removed the three bolts on each side above subframe but still need to remove the large one.
2. Removed the shock bolts
3. Disconnected sway bar.
4. Removed engine shocks

I'll be working on it tomorrow. I beleive I need to disconnect the:

1. differential
2. driveshaft
3. ebrake
4. disconnect tranny from body
5. and other miscellaneous disconnections that I'm not aware of yet.

Tomguy · #4 03-06-2019, 04:49 PM

"Other miscellaneous disconnections" such as the tie rods, the subframe stabilizer bar (if not broken from bad subframe mounts), fuel and vacuum lines, etc. Just be aware that anything connecting parts to the subframe and body need to go away and you'll be fine. Sounds like you found that article and already "Fixed" some of the issues I pointed out

cth350 · #5 03-16-2019, 10:32 AM

I have pulled many an engine with a sawzall. Usually from cars that are never going to be back on the road.

If you have no need to fix suspension parts and reassemble it, then leave the subframe and the wheels in place so the car can roll. You will need 3" of chain and a cherry picker to life the engine a few inches. The drop the subframe trick is good when you have an intact car.

One often overlooked part is the the heavy wire braided ground strap that connects on the rear of the engine to the frame. That's an essential part for ensuring all the current through the starter and ignition make it back to the battery cable that's bolted to a different spot on the frame.

-CTH

jwalk1972 · #6 03-16-2019, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cth350

I have pulled many an engine with a sawzall. Usually from cars that are never going to be back on the road.

If you have no need to fix suspension parts and reassemble it, then leave the subframe and the wheels in place so the car can roll. You will need 3" of chain and a cherry picker to life the engine a few inches. The drop the subframe trick is good when you have an intact car.

One often overlooked part is the the heavy wire braided ground strap that connects on the rear of the engine to the frame. That's an essential part for ensuring all the current through the starter and ignition make it back to the battery cable that's bolted to a different spot on the frame.

-CTH

thx CTH

I had to use the sawzall a few times. The last time was for some tie rod/steering shock(not sure what you call it) attached to the frame. I could not get the manifold to clear it when jacking up to roll out. It's def been a learning experience

So true on the wire braid, I missed it initially. I think I have everything disconnected now. I dropped the dif in the back, and now I need to lift the chassis up and over with the help of a few guys. Then I'll send most of it off for scrap or sell to someone locally. Some pics below. I know it's not the safest looking setup. Thanks for the feedback!

jwalk1972 · #7 03-16-2019, 07:31 PM

So finally got it done. thx for your help. I def would not do it alone next time. Always grateful for this forum all of your help.

Tony H · #8 03-16-2019, 08:37 PM

Be sure not to chuck the rear axle-the 3.27 is somewhat sought after.

Mike D · #9 03-16-2019, 10:27 PM

Check the number on the diff. I believe the 280SE 4.5 had the 3.06 and the larger gear housing.

I've been wrong before so give it a gander to be sure.

cth350 · #10 03-17-2019, 11:27 PM

if I remember correctly, both were possible. Definitely check for a flat surface on the side of the axle that doesn't swing. I recall it facing the rear of the car. A number like 3,27 is the one everybody seems want.

Also, if the car was sitting straight in the rear, than whatever spring or hydraulic compensator was in place is still good. Keep it with the diff.

-CTH

Tony H · #11 03-18-2019, 12:32 AM

I have grabbed a few of these and they were all 3.27. Once I went to the Pick n Pull during lunch and there was a fresh 4.5. I took a long lunch that day.

vandor · #12 03-22-2019, 01:12 AM

The switch on the firewall on the top right of the last pic (in the batch of 5 pics) is, I think, the full throttle switch. Please let me know if you want to sell it, mine went bad, I tried to fix it, but it's not really meant to be taken apart... I'm near Dallas.

jwalk1972 · #13 04-26-2019, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandor

The switch on the firewall on the top right of the last pic (in the batch of 5 pics) is, I think, the full throttle switch. Please let me know if you want to sell it, mine went bad, I tried to fix it, but it's not really meant to be taken apart... I'm near Dallas.

Hi Vandor,

Sorry for the delay. Do not have it.