W114 250 Camper conversion

[1971 250/8]

The planned overhaul of my 71 250 sedan came to a screeching halt before taking a dive into the $$$$$$ pit. My basic problem? Anything can be done on the cheap and a lot of money could be saved by doing a few things myself, but I was still looking at about 12 grand to do it right. Definitely more than what it’s worth.
So there she sat in the garage for well over a year. Being a California valley car (low humidity) the chassis was nearly rust-free. My brain went into spin cycle... then stopped on sacrilegious.

My wife and I want a camper. So I decided to cut the nose off and convert it into a camping trailer. With a goal of keeping it under 1500 pounds and tongue weight of around 200 pounds.

The basic idea follows Tear Drop features, sleeping compartment up front and galley in the back.

Design includes a 4” rear suspension lift (achieved!)

Power is 12 volt with 100 watt panel to recharge a 300 watt Rockpals lithium ion battery.

I am about half way done, or at least the major things.... Completely rebuilt the rear subframe. Installed a lift kit (customized and reengineered) Undercoated the chassis. Installed a tow bar.

This is where I ask the forum... do you want this sacrilegious project posted here?

[BWhitmore]

Sure. Please post some pictures.

[ScooterABC]

Yes. Pics please.

[1971 250/8]

Much appreciated guys. I know how attached we can get to our cars... cutting up a vintage might make some cringe.

I'll post a series of pictures beginning with what she looks like today.

[1971 250/8]

Ordered FAG wheel bearing kits and decided to do the work myself. I ordered the slotted nut adapter and repurposed an old automatic garage door rail into a 6 foot breaker bar for a 1/2" drive ratchet. Also found a long metal stake that worked perfectly as a stop held in by lug nut.

On assembly, I repurposed the front hub bearing caps by cutting them to fit the rear hubs and J B welded in place. I also used 3 1/4" jar lids (perfect fit) to cover the inside axle opening and sealed both sides water tight using JB weld.

This camper will have a tool kit and spare parts kit, one being a spare bearing set with tools.

[1971 250/8]

I managed to get 4.5" of lift by adding 1.5" to the coils and shocks, 2.5" by placing the forward subframe bushings between frame and mounting arm, and lowering the main subframe center body (the main section that once mounted to the differential that now mounts through the trunk) by about 6 inches (initially this was 3.5" lower but that produced positive camber. By lowering it further that corrected the camber problem. You will see in the picture that the 10x1.75x200mm studs are at their limit, I will replace them with 250mm studs)

Lesson here is: If alignment is ever needed, the way to obtain it is by adjusting the main section upward (to correct negative camber) or downward to correct positive camber.

[1971 250/8]

Ordered a 75"x2"x2" 11 gauge bar and 11 gauge "L" brackets that are stud mounted into the transmission slot nut channels. A very solid arrangement, however this might require welding supports (I need to ask around... find a car builder that knows the technical aspects of towing and forces being applied)

Coupler is class 2, 3500#

Scissor jack is rated at 5000#

The next step is towing it to get weighed. That will determine if I need to trim more metal off the nose to keep total weight under 1500 pounds. Anything higher will require electric brakes.

NOSE JOB: The current design has a solar panel mounting bracket flanked by triangle glass window molds. The plan is to put the original rear window triangle glass here.

This is an ongoing project that I hope to complete this year.

[rumb]

You should gullwing the doors.

[Squiggle Dog]

Points for originality!

[BWhitmore]

Quality build. The one and only.

[801mbz]

I don't hate it nice work keep with up dates and pics

[1971 250/8]

Feeling "Over the Moon" with weight results;

760 pounds as pictured. I estimate adding 250 pounds (mostly fiberglass) when all is said and done. I am literally stunned by this, as MOST AT aluminum designs weigh in over 1500 pounds! For comparison, the Boreas AT is 1850 pounds (pictured).

It trailered well, took it up to 60mph with zero issues. Found a few potholes and the chassis bounced less than the tow vehicle (Chevy truck).

The tongue weight so far (minus 9 pounds of wood and jack) is 145 pounds.

Happy I don't have to mess with electric brakes.


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[Squiggle Dog]

Are you going to install doors?

[1971 250/8]

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Are you going to install doors?

Yes. I have the doors but will cut out the interior metal and only use the outer skin on three of them (just to reduce unnecessary weight). The camper entry door (passenger side) will remain fully intact. Other doors will be fiberglassed to the body (no gaps).

As for windows, the rear glass will be installed with a new seal. The sides will have no windows (fiberglass panels).

I'll post that work when I get to it.

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[1971 250/8]

Trimmed off the nose removing 43 pounds of metal.

The fiberglass nose was patterned using styrofoam panels. I placed that on the garage floor and covered it with aluminum foil (resin does not stick to foil and peels off rather easily).

Cut six oversize fiberglass sheets and laid them down using about 12 cups of resin. Flat panels are easy to work this way, requires no brushes, using a 6" wide plastic putty knife to work it in and push out air bubbles.

I'm allowing this to cure two days before cutting it along the black trim line.

Not that it requires two days... I got distracted with Gullwing doors (next post)

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