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  #1  
Old 01-12-2021, 03:27 PM
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Remove auto trans from seized engine

Hi all,


So my 250C has a seized engine. It has an auto trans. I seem to recall the torque converter is bolted to a flex plate or flywheel and there is an access hatch at the bottom of the trans. If the engine does not turn, how can I get to the bolts? Does the torque converter simply pull out of the trans? And if it does can I get to the bolts?



Currently the seized block and trans are in the car. I would like to only pull the block (leave the trans in place), but I can remove both from the car.


Thanks.

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Old 01-12-2021, 03:59 PM
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This is my experience. If you have the engine and tranny out then you can pull them apart without removing the torque converter. If the engine is in the car, you don't have the clearance to back the tranny out without removing the tc.

If the engine is in the car then you can remove the piston lower ends and try turning the crank. Then you can access the tc bolts.

Good luck.
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Old 01-12-2021, 05:23 PM
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@ah-kay is absolutely correct. Pulling the entire engine and transmission would be the best way to go. Then you can easily slide the transmission back off the engine and now stuck TQ converter.
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Old 01-13-2021, 10:55 PM
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definitely pull them both. Once you do, you can indeed separate them and even rescue the torque converter. But definitely after doing this replace the front trans seal, as the separation process will cause it grief. The torque convert is supposed to be pulled up, out of the trans and you won't be able to do it.

-CTH
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Old 02-19-2021, 08:10 PM
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frozen motor

remove engine and trans complete remove oil pan slack off and remove bearing caps.knock out pistons and rods.looen cranck. and then you can turn converter.to loosen bolts.tediouse work probably require heat..hope you can save block and head.good luck.
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Old 02-19-2021, 09:25 PM
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Do you know where or how it is seized?
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  #7  
Old 03-11-2021, 03:15 AM
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The head is off. Someone tried to "fix" or sabotage the engine by pouring some head gasket repair right into the cylinder. I got replacement used engine, but the project has been sidelined by other things.
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Old 05-05-2021, 01:37 PM
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First thanks to all for the advice. Second an update. The engine is out. Boy, does having a proper hoist and leveler make a difference, the job was really kind of easy.

I am half way through removing everything from the block. Then I will roll to over, pull the pan, etc, etc, so I can turn the crank.

I have a long block replacement from a w108 280S. It looks ok, but I have yet to run any tests.

The old head can be repaired, but it is the wrong head - a 250. The block would have to be sleeved. Both the block and head cooling passages are filled with some snake-oil crud. The water pump is packed with crap.

I only have some weekends to work the project, but I am hoping to drive the car before the end of summer.

Let see about getting some pictures on this thread.
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Old 05-05-2021, 02:32 PM
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Some pictures.
Attached Thumbnails
Remove auto trans from seized engine-20201103_141150.jpg   Remove auto trans from seized engine-20201104_111602.jpg   Remove auto trans from seized engine-20210403_161044.jpg   Remove auto trans from seized engine-20210502_120316.jpg   Remove auto trans from seized engine-20210502_131215.jpg  

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  #10  
Old 05-10-2021, 06:42 PM
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Made lots of good progress this weekend. Rolled the engine over, removed the pan, to find that I need a 12 point socket to remove the connecting rods, which I have but not where I am working on the car. So the trans is still attached to the block.

BTW: Is there some special socket for these connecting rod bolts or is the 15mm 12 point correct?

Some questions:
1) What the dimensions of the short manifold studs at either end of the head?
2) Good radiator repair shops in Glendale or South Bay CA. Radiator needs re-core
3) Good hydraulic hose shop for power steering and ATF cooler hoses?

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