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  #1  
Old 03-12-2021, 10:51 PM
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53 w136 170ds Questions & Advice

So I drug home a project 170ds with the om636. Says 33K kilometers on the dash, I'm guessing more like 133K...

The car was taken apart, for paint and who knows what else.. For what ever reason they quit on it, and lost a few of the bits that were off. Then it sat for many years ....

Like front & rear glass, all trim, Radiator cap & /emblem,fuel cap, hood hinges. Even the side panels in-between the hood, and fenders....

The engine had the injection stuff removed and tossed on the floor. Thankfully I'm only missing the return line fittings for the injectors.

That engine was seized tightly from sitting for years... I popped it loose though. Feels good spinning it over. Should have enough compression to start. Under the valve cover is squeaky clean. The injectors still have excellent tips in the nozzles too.

I need to time the ip pump. From what I've found it is 30" BTDC on #1. Either way I need to know where to set the pump mark to. Everything is vauge on this....

Something I can't get over is I wound up the clock inside. It has worked over a day while keeping perfect time!

I'll get some pics up soon.

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  #2  
Old 03-13-2021, 03:20 PM
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I have a full set of doors for 170Sd and I think a trunk lid. Two clean rims as well.
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  #3  
Old 03-13-2021, 03:30 PM
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I have decent doors, just no trim. I am missing a spare wheel, jack-ect.
Mainly concerned about the missing side panels on the front.
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53 w136  170ds Questions & Advice-fixed.jpg  
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  #4  
Old 03-13-2021, 08:10 PM
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There is a fully restored W136 featured in the current edition of the Star magazine a publication of the Mercedes Benz Club of America.
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  #5  
Old 03-14-2021, 06:57 PM
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First several things need to be done:

-obtain a Bosch PES4A seal repair kit (preferably for pumps with pneumatic governor...although the ones sold for IP's with mechanical governor will be alright for your task). 20-30 USD depending on how extensive it is.
-clean meticulously the IP lines (inside and the threaded nuts). If the injectors are mounted on the head, simply mount the IP on the engine,tighten the lines,tighten the IP... and mark the pump body in relation to the engine block. You do not want the injector lines to be under stress. Use the mark later for orientation when you mount the IP do the IP timing.
-check the ease of movement of the IP rack...check the IP for stuck plungers/broken springs/gumming etc.(remove the side cover).Remove the old lubrication oil in the IP sump and renew with fresh engine oil.Check whether the diaphragm is not cracked (the pneumatic governor "thumb test").
-obtain a drip tube or make one from a spare injector line (bend and cut).
-check the operation of the hand priming pumps and the two valves, renew the fuel lines. This is of great importance for properly performing the IP timing...purging...and proper operation of the engine.
-get a decent torque wrench of lower range (say 10-60 NM).
-Check the markings on the harmonic ballancer(clean it) . There should be O/T ...and F/B (or the value of the degrees BTDC for the feed begin). The later versions of the om636 seem to be 26 BTDC for ones with an injection timing device and 32 for ones without (industrial engines etc. OM636 has seen extensive use all over the world in different applications...boats,refrigeration units,generators,tractors,hoists...).Your version may not have a timer so they must have decided on 30 BTDC.But as long as the marking on the ballancer are there this is of no importance.
Clean the model tags on the IP (PES4A50xxxxx)and the Lift Pump (FP/KE22xx,if this is the one...) to know what repair kit to order-availability is not an issue here.
Meanwhile read some more of the forum resources on IP drip tube timing method to be prepared for the task (anything on the Diesel and the Vintage section applies, with some small variations).
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  #6  
Old 03-14-2021, 09:49 PM
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Wow, thanks for all of the tips!

I checked the ip pump over well, nothing is stuck. Diaphragm is working fine, no leaks. The fuel pump works right.

I will get that seal kit soon. For now I made up some gaskets, have a fuel filter coming. I need to make some bushings for the butterfly shaft of that throttle body. Same goes for the injector return line brass fittings(I don't have these).

Might just let it drip to see if it starts.. Have plans of turning them out on the lathe.

I see nothing fuel system wise as to why it was taken apart. Still think it was due to the stuck engine, and previous owner not knowing what to do.

I have a diy injector line for drip timing. The books talk about adjusting it so, it stops dripping at the right mark. Not a drip per second. Unless I miss read this.. I've drip timed many 220,240,and 300d's so the process is familiar.

I think the ip mark should be placed on the top left bolt(while facing the pumps gear). The pump has no other mark I see. Either way this isn't a big deal.

All the other missing parts is a big deal...
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  #7  
Old 03-14-2021, 11:34 PM
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Yup, just as it stops dripping...another drop is allowed after 15-20 seconds.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/vintage-mercedes-forum/148937d1534934043-1963-om621-diesel-timing-db.jpg

The size of banjo fittings and hollow bolts should be as on om621/615/616 etc.

...Or you're talking about the injector return line fitting

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/14sAAOSwEjFXeXj~/s-l500.jpg

Last edited by vox_incognita; 03-15-2021 at 12:14 AM.
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  #8  
Old 03-15-2021, 12:19 AM
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yep those fittings. Their MIA.
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  #9  
Old 03-15-2021, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300d 4 ME View Post
I need to make some bushings for the butterfly shaft of that throttle body
Those are possibly available ready-made from your favorite industrial supply house. I have a project going now that requires metric bushings for a shaft and I found direct replacements for not a lot of money.
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  #10  
Old 03-15-2021, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300d 4 ME View Post
Wow, thanks for all of the tips!

I checked the ip pump over well, nothing is stuck. Diaphragm is working fine, no leaks. The fuel pump works right.

I will get that seal kit soon. For now I made up some gaskets, have a fuel filter coming. I need to make some bushings for the butterfly shaft of that throttle body. Same goes for the injector return line brass fittings(I don't have these).

Might just let it drip to see if it starts.. Have plans of turning them out on the lathe.

I see nothing fuel system wise as to why it was taken apart. Still think it was due to the stuck engine, and previous owner not knowing what to do.

I have a diy injector line for drip timing. The books talk about adjusting it so, it stops dripping at the right mark. Not a drip per second. Unless I miss read this.. I've drip timed many 220,240,and 300d's so the process is familiar.

I think the ip mark should be placed on the top left bolt(while facing the pumps gear). The pump has no other mark I see. Either way this isn't a big deal.

All the other missing parts is a big deal...
Be advised that early pumps for the OM636, maybe all of them-- were lubricated from a supply of of 30SAE weight oil in their own sump. It is WISE to drain the sump on the side of the pump, flush it thoroughly and even scrub it a little with a brush. Then cover the lobes and any contact points between lobes and pump components with heavy grease to keep it all lubed until the oil in the sump has the chance to do its work.

Good luck.

I have a half-dozen of these engines which I am restoring, one of which will go in my 1950170D
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  #11  
Old 03-15-2021, 02:47 PM
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Yep,the pump had drained out inside the car.. Its clean inside the pumps sump though. Already rinsed it out too.


What fuel filter # do you use? The new one that came didn't come with a cap seal...

Since you have a few extra engines, would you have 4 spare fuel injector return line fittings?
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  #12  
Old 03-18-2021, 04:57 AM
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A quick google search confirms that om636 can use the "fast" type fat glow plugs used on om621/615/616/617. Going to make starting the engine a whole lot easier.

Just make sure :

-get rid of the ballast resistor , the resistor wires between the plugs and the ground wire to the engine block !
-use AWG 9 jumper wires between the plugs (IIRC the Euro spec was min. 6mm2 and I might be wrong on that but to be in the safe side I'd go with at least 9 AWG).
-in place of the ballast resistor use a strip fuse box from later engines with at least 60A strip fuse (10 USD total...advisable but not obligatory-elegant and cheap insurance. No need for a relay there).

OLDTIMER
https://dieselgiant.com/mercedesdieselloopglowplugrepair.htm
...and a lot of threads on this topic on peachparts.com
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  #13  
Old 03-18-2021, 12:05 PM
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Thanks for taking a look. I got the ones with a smaller exposed glow tip, from Germany.

I'm still having a issue with finding the timing marks. I think the holes on the flywheel that are visable through the peep hole are not it. I think it is stamped on the flywheel. Might have found 0/t marks. I'm going to take some sand paper, while cranking the engine-to clean up the marks.

Still haven't got it to even cough yet. Must be super sensitive to ip timing, or glow plugs.

On a side note. I noticed one of my wheels are different. Apparently it is the same style used on a 300sl, or 180.. Not that it matters for anything. The car is sporting "Jetair" tires, made in Iran. So that pretty well dates the last restoration to the early 80's.

Has a shortwave sanyo radio too.

Last edited by 300d 4 ME; 03-18-2021 at 12:19 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-18-2021, 06:19 PM
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Your suspension is more complete than mine. Had the rear-end sold out of my 170S after I had already purchased the car.

Imagine walking into the shop one day to find your car missing the rear end... I'll never get over that.
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  #15  
Old 03-18-2021, 06:47 PM
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there is a really ugly car near me on craig's list.
https://longisland.craigslist.org/pts/d/lindenhurst-1952-mercedes-benz-170-sb/7272990062.html

If you either of you are brave enough for it, call the guy. I can probably help get better pictures.

-CTH

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