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  #16  
Old 04-09-2021, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
The only difference in all of the MB diffs (of that basic size) is the ratio of the ring & pinion gears. Externally they are all the same, the above mentioned early and late versions notwithstanding.
Any eccentricity/runout of the driveshaft at the diff input could well be the cause of the described symptoms.
5mm of mis-alignement suggests that the centering bushing in the back end of the driveshaft has gone tits up. The back half of 114/115 driveshafts are all the same length; one that came with a 3.46 is the same as that which came with a 3.92.
While changing the diff pony up for a driveline rebuild.
OK! Also I should have stated I am not 100% sure its from a 240D, that's what the mechanic said based on the gearing. I looked more online though and it appears that the geometry of the casing doesn't match either the 240D or 300Ds I've seen. It has fins on the back of the case (for cooling?). So who knows maybe its from a 1950s car or a 1990s car. The flex disc, located right next to the differential on the driveshaft, appears to be in excellent condition and there is no evidence of looseness or play in the driveshaft itself. I felt it when it was on the lift. Firm.

I just bought the ebay one. I really hope I don't have to rebuild the driveline. Rebuilt driveshaft for my old bimmer with core return was like 500 bucks in parts alone.

-Henry

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  #17  
Old 04-09-2021, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by cleeves View Post
OK! Also I should have stated I am not 100% sure its from a 240D, that's what the mechanic said based on the gearing. I looked more online though and it appears that the geometry of the casing doesn't match either the 240D or 300Ds I've seen. It has fins on the back of the case (for cooling?). So who knows maybe its from a 1950s car or a 1990s car. The flex disc, located right next to the differential on the driveshaft, appears to be in excellent condition and there is no evidence of looseness or play in the driveshaft itself. I felt it when it was on the lift. Firm.

I just bought the ebay one. I really hope I don't have to rebuild the driveline. Rebuilt driveshaft for my old bimmer with core return was like 500 bucks in parts alone.
Did you, or can you count the number of bolts that retain the side covers of the diff? 6 or 8?
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  #18  
Old 04-09-2021, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
Did you, or can you count the number of bolts that retain the side covers of the diff? 6 or 8?
I didn't, and I also didn't take any pictures (but i should have). Seems the one you linked to has 8. I could go out and crawl under the car but I usually wear elegant clothes when I go outside here and I don't feel like getting dirty on the street. My block is full of opera singers pianists etc and getting under neath my car here seems inappropriate. (Lol?)

I'm probably just going to bring the shop the 3.46 diff when it arrives in a week and have them try to install it and then go from there.

Do you suggest I immediate stop driving? We have vax appointments an hour drive away next week. It's been like this for at least 20,000 miles what can another 100 miles hurt.

-Henry
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  #19  
Old 04-09-2021, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cleeves View Post
I didn't, and I also didn't take any pictures (but i should have). Seems the one you linked to has 8.

I'm probably just going to bring the shop the 3.46 diff when it arrives in a week and have them try to install it and then go from there.
Do you suggest I immediate stop driving? We have vax appointments an hour drive away next week. It's been like this for at least 20,000 miles what can another 100 miles hurt.-Henry

The diff that I linked to does not have SIDE covers! It does have a rear cover that is indeed retained by eight bolts.
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  #20  
Old 04-09-2021, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
The diff that I linked to does not have SIDE covers! It does have a rear cover that is indeed retained by eight bolts.
OK! I thought you might have made a typo or something and that none of the diffs had side covers. I really can't remember what mine looked like. You did not make a typo, noted. Something about the diff in the car made the mechanic think it was a frankenstein kind of part in the car, i.e. it just didn't look like it belonged there. Considering that the rest of it is almost completely original except the rubber. I'm more or less the second owner and this is by far the wackiest, non original thing I've observed about it. I didn't believe the tech until I saw it, as the rest of the car is so well preserved, down to the paint, Becker, and original glow system.

-Henry
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  #21  
Old 04-19-2021, 05:06 PM
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Some 116 cars had the fins on the back of the diff. Like you said, for cooling.

I guess you could make a 116 work. I have never tried but they bolt in with the same general design.

In this case it sounds like a photo, or several, is a must.
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  #22  
Old 04-25-2021, 02:46 PM
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Post Final Drive Ratios

The ratio is stamped into a tab on the back side of the diffy housing,it's usually covered in grease and road munge but it's a simple thing to wipe it off to see what you have now .

Let us know how the job turns out .

I too have replaced the final drives and it's wasn't the end of things .
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1982 240D stripper 393,000 miles
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1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed SOLD & missed
Kooky Kommie Ural Motocycles (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
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  #23  
Old 04-25-2021, 06:43 PM
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Thanks for the bump.

The shop rubbed the gunk off the number and it wasn't a 3.46. But I don't remember what it was.

I got the 100$ diff that Frank suggested. But I haven't put it in yet or checked. Don't drive much so it's not an immediate need. Made it 1 hr each way out of the city to get Pfizer No 1. It didn't seem to get substantially worse on the drive. I'm waiting for the drive on May 7th to get Pfizer No 2. Then, I'll drop it off at the shop to get it swapped and maybe get a pic of things if I get a chance. I wanted to wait cause I figure if it needs a driveline rebuild I should plan for more than a couple weeks to be safe.

-Henry
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  #24  
Old 04-26-2021, 10:31 AM
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Post Final Drive Service

Before you forget, go to Harbor Freight and buy a tube of rare earth magnets so they'll be handy when you (or the shop) has the derby cover off , drop one in the bottom before buttoning it all back up .

Whenever you have a non serviceable drive shaft assembly that need U-Joints, find out where the nearest truck shop (big rigs) sends them and take it there ~ rarely will it be over $200 even with three U-Joints and it will include Zerk fittings and proper balancing .
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-Nate
1982 240D stripper 393,000 miles
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 481,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed SOLD & missed
Kooky Kommie Ural Motocycles (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 DeLuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust, Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck, Back & arm, lots of screws, pins & plates .
Memories, Peace Of Mind
facts & reality don't change because you can't handle them
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  #25  
Old 04-26-2021, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
Before you forget, go to Harbor Freight and buy a tube of rare earth magnets so they'll be handy when you (or the shop) has the derby cover off , drop one in the bottom before buttoning it all back up .

Whenever you have a non serviceable drive shaft assembly that need U-Joints, find out where the nearest truck shop (big rigs) sends them and take it there ~ rarely will it be over $200 even with three U-Joints and it will include Zerk fittings and proper balancing .
Can you explain why I would want to put one of these magnets in the diff?

Seems like good advice on the driveshaft assembly. Thanks!

Thanks.
Henry
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  #26  
Old 04-26-2021, 11:23 PM
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Post Magnets And SWARF

You want to place a magnet in any thing lubricated by oil because it collects the normal "SWARF" ~ this is tiny bits of ferrous metal that's left over from the initial manufacture and from normal wear and tear ~ by removing it from the oil it reduces wear significantly .

There was a time when most drain plugs were magnetic .

I add two magnets : one to the drain or sump and another to the fill plug .

The drain / sum one collects rough SWARF , the filler plug ones collect much finer particles .

It's another of those little things you can do to maximize the life of machines .
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-Nate
1982 240D stripper 393,000 miles
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 481,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed SOLD & missed
Kooky Kommie Ural Motocycles (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 DeLuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust, Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck, Back & arm, lots of screws, pins & plates .
Memories, Peace Of Mind
facts & reality don't change because you can't handle them
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  #27  
Old 04-27-2021, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
You want to place a magnet in any thing lubricated by oil because it collects the normal "SWARF" ~ this is tiny bits of ferrous metal that's left over from the initial manufacture and from normal wear and tear ~ by removing it from the oil it reduces wear significantly .

There was a time when most drain plugs were magnetic .

I add two magnets : one to the drain or sump and another to the fill plug .

The drain / sum one collects rough SWARF , the filler plug ones collect much finer particles .

It's another of those little things you can do to maximize the life of machines .
Sensible. I had a hunch that might have been why you suggested this! Will do.

-Henry
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  #28  
Old 04-28-2021, 11:45 PM
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Henry, If you want the driveshaft rebuilt, give Nassau Drive shaft a call. They are in Freeport on LI and see if they can/will do it. I am not all that far from them (or you for that matter) and can help you get it there if want to do it.

-CTH
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  #29  
Old 04-29-2021, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cth350 View Post
Henry, If you want the driveshaft rebuilt, give Nassau Drive shaft a call. They are in Freeport on LI and see if they can/will do it. I am not all that far from them (or you for that matter) and can help you get it there if want to do it.

-CTH
Nice, very helpful. I will definitely keep that in mind if it needs it. I'm somewhat worried that the driveshaft is the wrong length or doesn't have the right bolts due to being replaced in conjunction with the wrong differential (unclear if it was replaced with diff). Perhaps it has an adjustable length driveshaft like the one in my former BMW. Hopefully the new one bolts right in and is at least driveable in case I need to take it there for a driveshaft rebuild.

-Henry

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