240d Mechanic In Chicago - Help!!!

[lada03]

Hello,
I purchased a running/driving 1975 240d. Drove it home and now wont start. The glow plugs are not heating up. I dont know if they are bad or if they are not getting power and its an electrical issue somewhere.

Is there someone in Chicago that can help,? Make a house call and get this old 240d started? I have limited tools and even less knowledge. I would think it would be best to convert the old series style glow plugs to the newer “pencil” style to avoid future issues.

Im in Ukrainian Village and running out of time, especially wtih getting parking tickets for street cleaning violations


Artur
860.402.9354

[sloride]

I would first run the GP cycle and listen if the relay drops out after around 45 seconds. I f you don't hear it check fuse for GPs. Good luck finding a fuse at a parts store if that is the issue. Odds are if it started when you picked it up I doubt enough GPs fail to the point of it not starting.

[lada03]

This is a 75’, i dont think it had a GP relay?

As far as the fuse, is it a 80amp fuse?

$.39
https://www.***************/pn/14003916-BS-0005450334?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=feedmobile_Mercedes&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjpjE2YrR8QIVDm1vBB1tMQ8nEAQYASABEgI_5vD_BwE

[lada03]

I think the guy started it at his house with start fluid and drove it to sell me the car

I found a start fluid can under the hood

[sloride]

Originally Posted by lada03

This is a 75’, i dont think it had a GP relay?

As far as the fuse, is it a 80amp fuse?

$.39
https://www.***************/pn/14003916-BS-0005450334?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=feedmobile_Mercedes&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjpjE2YrR8QIVDm1vBB1tMQ8nEAQYASABEgI_5vD_BwE

G
"Gorilla knob" in a 75, could be. I am more familiar with 81 on.

[lada03]

Yeah, im clueless on what it can be. If you anyone makes house visits in Chicago, i would really appreciate it

[sloride]

Starter fluid can under the hood, not a good sign. That is especially in Chicago in middle of July. Someone needs to check power to GPs, and resistance. Someone also starting with starter fluid probably has not adjusted valves in a while or ever.

[Jorn]

Not familiar with the 1975 240D, but I remember my 300CD had a 80amp fuse in a little box mounted on the firewall. It got me stranded once.

https://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Glow-Strip-Mercedes-Flosser/dp/B00KOHAWAC

[Mike D]

What procedure are you using to start the car?

The correct procedure is to:

Turn ignition to "Run" position. Gauges activate and "Battery/Alternator/Charge" light should glow.

Pull "Start" knob out to the first detent. The "Battery/Alternator/Charge" light in the instrument cluster should dim.

Hold knob in this position for 15-30 seconds (Hence the term of "Gorilla Knob"). The "Salt shaker" element in the chrome grill should glow "red".

Pull knob out fully to engage starter motor.

Usually after the first start of the day an engine in good shape will fire after only a 5 or 10 second "glow".

The only fuse (no relay) is a strip fuse mounted on the firewall. I believe it is a 50 amp.

If the charge indicator light doesn't dim then you either have a blown fuse (seldom) or bad glow plug/s (usual culprit).

Since the original wiring set-up is done in a "series" fashion, if one glow plug is bad then none of them will work.

Electro-gimmickery is NOT a Teutonic strong point.

See post # 26 in this thread:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes-forum/408811-glow-plug-wiring-question.html

[lada03]

I have fallowed the procedure you indicated. When i pull the “Gorilla Switch”
the light on the dash does not dim at all.

Iam not able to find a strip fuse to see if it is damaged, can someone post a picture where it is?

Also, i will try and use a multimeter to check if the glow plugs are getting power.
The tip of the glownplug should be 1.5v?


Also, can i rule out that this is not a fuel delivery issue? Is there a fuel pump relay?

The car has been messed with. There are a few random relays under the dash and by the drivers side fender that i have no idea what they are for. By the drivers fender there are 2 “double fuses” enclosed in a plastic casing. I changed those out as well.

[Mike D]

I don't have a W115 diesel here so I can't post a picture of the fuse location. It is on the firewall, in-board of the brake vacuum booster. Follow the lead from the #4 glow plug.

On the lead to the #4 plug, you should get power when you pull the Gorilla knob to the first detent (holding pressure on the knob). If you have power there then the fuse is good.

Use an ohmmeter to test the glow plugs. Isolate each plug and check for continuity. One lead to center terminal and the other to the body of the plug.

Pay attention how the thick shaped wires connect to the plugs. They have a specific pattern. Keep a magnet and flashlight handy for when you drop the securing nuts. Curse freely. I find it easier to disconnect the injector pump linkage which gives you a bit more access.

[1simpson@bellsouth.net]

Just to make sure, something I didn’t catch at first, but Mike D said it….when you pull the knob to the first detent, pull a little more to put tension on the knob, you’ll see the dimming, and the salt shaker glow.